Mike2JZ

I'll take this' PM coming

I'm after this bit here if you have it

You will need to jack car to take undertray off, after that you can have the supra off the jacks for the starter trick. Other alternative is, if your breaker bar is of the right size, you can wedge it under the chassis on driverside, but obviously make sure you put some rags around the bar so it doesn't mark anything.

Canterbury. Maybe if you fancy a drive over the weekend I can send you some fuel money to deliver

I'm interested in these, just not sure how I can pick them up as supra is off the road at the moment.

Definitely another classic in the making

Rolex oil cap that shows oil temp/pressure you know you can do it

What do you think about adding arms to the watch face?

Car looks awesome, very jealous of how nice your paintwork is!

Even though my supra is in the garage still, might stop by the route before work tomorrow and grab another video of everyone shooting past on the way to eurotunnel. Presume you guys are using the M20?

slowclap

So people are getting insulted over their invisible sky fairy being referenced incorrectly by mock terrorists, pretending to be sky fairy believers, who actually probably believe in another sort of sky fairy altogether. This is some meta level stuff, please let the abstraction continue.

Are those metal monkey dials or proper TRD ones? Also I want your seats, look so nice!

Could be interested, all depends on price

It's all a facade, deep down I'm a dumb blond

7-9k

Those Volk TE37's cost a pretty penny. Not sure if you are able to find any 'replica' wheels that looks the same and can provide the same offset/concave. Check the Japan Racing & XXR catalogs if they have anything similar

When you can't find a chain for the engine lift, get a used aux belt and start praying it dosen't snap Engine install went ok, managed to install the driverside engine mount slightly forward, so had to move them back one set of bolt holes at the last second to get the engine to sit perfectly. Back where she belongs Then started loosely putting the pipework back in place so I could finalize the locations & cable management for the engine loom. Still need to plump up the fuel lines, finish cable management, give her some oil, bolt the starter on then see if she will fire up without going bang or losing fluid

Sorting out the new timing service components. Took me two tries to get the timing bang on Also cleaned up the injectors and put new seals on them. Cleaned up fuel rail & injectors installed Next up was the painted intake manifold, intake braces & the start of test fitting the loom. 98% of the cables on the loom went to where they needed to go with no issue, but for some reason the igniter coil & noise filter were miles off from being able to reach the stock location. Must have tied them down without realizing. So will need to extend them or run the igniter coil on the right hand side of the engine bay. Rear crank seal area cleaned up a bit in preparation for flywheel to go on.

Finally the head tool arrived and fitted perfectly, thank you 'Andy Blyth' for the recommendation. My mates that I share the workshop with knew how bad I wanted that tool and switched it with a socket that wasn't even close to fitting just to mess with me. How relieved I was when they told me they had the proper one revenge will be mine soon It fits! All done Buckets and shims back in, glad I labelled them beforehand Camshafts back in and clearances all checked out Quick test fit of some bits to see what engine will look like

1. Full Boost

my toyota had mine delivered in 3 days, try calling another branch? failing that use amayama ?

Still waiting on the bloody head tool! In the meantime I've ordered a new set of wheels and tyres, with the aim of having these filling the arches properly as the old set never did. Would of really liked some lighter forged wheels this time round, but the money for them is way out of my budget, so settled with JR10's again in hyper silver. Had no issues with them last time and still like their look, only downside to them is being a little heavy but it's expected from a 1 piece cast wheel that is on the cheaper end of the wheel market On the front I will be going from 18'' 8.5j +45 to 18'' 8.5j +25 Before I sold my last wheels, I test fitted my rear 9.5 + 40 on the front, but it stuck out a few MM past the arch, whereas the ones I've ordered now will stick out further, but less than the 9.5j's so hopefully close to the arch line. Also ordered some 245/35/18 RSR 595 Semi Slicks for the front, so shouldn't have any issues with rubbing. Previously I had 18'' 9.5j + 40 on the rear, and even with a 30mm spacer, they were still not sitting close to where the over arches were. Since I bought my first set of JR10's, they now provide more offset sizes so decided to go with 18'' 10.5j + 12 on the rear. The extra 10mm from the rim, compared to the last rim+ spacer setup should bring the wheel quite close to where the arches sit. Hopefully will look more suited to the arches this time round. Ordered 285/30/18 RSR 595 semi slicks for the rear, really liked them for a summer tyre last year. Not great in the wet, but haven't driven another tyre with as much grip in the dry yet for my budget.

Whifbitz in london enfield or SRD in sussex are probably your best bet