Mike2JZ

Prices do not include postage. All can be collected from SRD. Not going to bother getting photos for the thread as too many parts, but if you want a photo of a particular item then please request to me and I'll get them for you. Will update as more parts become available.

Pedal from Whifbitz, used in my car for a while condition good and functions as it should. £90 Posted £75 collected from SRD

Seemed to work fine on my car, filter at bottom in good shape. OEM hose is fairly new so nice and soft still £80 Posted £60 collected from SRD

Bought this for mine before converting to a pedalbox so no longer required. Its brand new in box, just looking to cover what I spent on it give or take. Kit Includes: - Brake Lines to replace ABS - Line Lock Solenoid that screws into lines. £525 (inc post) £500 collected from SRD

Used on my car for a few years, everything in working order. Will grab some photos if required, just using stock photos for the post. I bought all these parts so a water/injection system could be run with no danger to ever cause damage to engine from having meth running out of flow or similar, so the following comes in the kit: AEM V2 1 Gallon Water Methanol Injection Kit Turbo Forced Induction #30-3300 AEM High-Flow Low-Current WMI Solenoid #30-3326 AEM Water / Methanol FAILSAFE Device + Meth Flow Rate #30-3020 £350 inc post Or £330 collected from SRD

Yup

Turbosmart 60mm Electronic Gate, although the new 50mm straightgate from them looks rather nice so hoping I can jump on that instead.

Had a few quiet hours today to start putting together a high level overview of the electronics and wiring locations for the front half of the car. I have quite a few new toys that will require looms to be scratchbuilt that integrate with themselves and the remaining OEM looms, which all leave the interior via different places so thought I'd make myself a map so I can keep track of whats what. Not as exciting as new parts being installed, but a needed part of the planning process now so I can attack this as efficiently as possible. This is more or less the idea moving forward although I'm sure ill make a few adjustments. Next step after this is to start planning out exactly where each individual wire for every component will go and create a giant spreadsheet that will map everything out in great detail. From there I can start speccing which bulkhead connectors and other materials I will need to implement the above. It's as fun as it sounds, very time consuming!

Managed to strip most of the sound deadening, stripped the engine bay and had the windows removed in the later part of this week. Had a 200 mile journey north to JP Cages, so with the help of @Wheelynutzstarted early this morning to get the supra transported from SRD HQ. Few hours later landed at our destination. This is how the engine bay sits currently. Using my poor photoshop skills, the rough plan for the engine bay will look something like this. The rear firewall will be welded and blanked off from the interior. Moving to a pedal box system to get the master cylinders & brake lines away from the hot exhaust side. Looking forward to this new setup as it will be aethetically very simple and servicing parts on the engine will be a little easier compared to before. Wiring loom will be moved to near where the factory slave cylinder sits with the use of some bulkhead connectors. I will continue to run a heater inside the car, but will be running some bulkhead AN fittings instead as factory HVAC will be deleted, so no further need for the factory heater line / AC line ports on the bulkhead. The front part of the new cage will run through the firewall onto the strut towers, with triangulation running to a different section of the cage. As shown by the white lines above. Once the cage is in the firewall will be welded up, and after some further modifications will need a new lick of paint, but that will be a future job once everything is in place. Left a few bits on the interior for mockup so cage builder can get an idea on seating position and location of a few bits that I need clearance on. Will be changing to a different seat and seat mount setup, but positioning of current setup is ideal for how I sit in the car. The instrument panel reinforcement bar is going to get ditched completely as there will be a horizontal hoop support bar that goes in its place and the steering column will be mounted to that instead. My challenge to him was to get the door bars to fit around the factory door cards, looks quite tight but if its possible then that will be great, if not will ditch the door cards completely, so will see what he can conjure up. Also adding in some anchor points for anti-submarining section of 6 point harness and cleaning up some previous welding in some places. For now have decieded to retain factory steering column, indictators and associated electronics as the interior section of the car will be running factory electronics for the time being as I can't afford to switch to a complete PDM based solution just yet, so will save for the future. Apparently cage is estimated to be done within 3 weeks, so have some time to sift through my old parts and get them sold and start piecing together the engine whilst I wait.

No it does not not, it uses cam sensor like a TT. Normally we pair this with a ge VVti oil pump or TT oil pump that will allow us to run a crank sensor.

Both coil kits offer the same thing in terms of performance. If you are running a distributor, you can convert to coil over plugs and use the distributor to trigger when the coils fire as the dizzy technically provides a crank/cam signal to the ECU. The trigger kit offered on Supra V will allow you to delete the distributor as it references the cam/crank signals through its dedicated crank trigger and cam trigger. You don't have to run the trigger kit to run the R35 coils, but the trigger kit will allow for more stable crank/cam trigger signals to the ECU, especially with higher RPM and more power, as the stock distributor can have issues provided a clean signal at these sorts of levels. My advice to you is that if you are planning on running R35 coils, do not waste your time with unmarked aftermarket coils. I must have replaced over 15 sets of these knock off coils due to issues with misfire and coil degredation. Do yourself a favour and buy a coil kit that uses genuine hitachi oem R35 coils. It costs more but will save you a lot of headache. Dont skimp out basically.

It's been a few years since I've written a build log unfortunately, but time to make up for lost time and get back on this. The last iteration of the build had me running a rather tasty 1.5JZ setup. For a bit of an oddball build it performed well, earning the title of fastest 100-200KPH (4.1s) street Supra in the UK (at the time). I could and probably should have left the car as is, but as always I am interested in trying new parts in order to progress my own learning and understanding of the JZA80, JZ platform & tuning in general. So here we go again, and this time round its going to get fairly hardcore, the days of the being a somewhat pleasurable street supra will be few now I think. Here is how the car sat a few months ago after some time sitting idle. Other than potentially some wider front wings to give better clearance around front wheels, I'm content with the look of the car so I don't think I'll make any major changes to the exterior. Main focus will be on the interior, safety systems, electronics, powertrain and drivetrain. Some interior photos to record what it looked like before the coming transformations. The focus with this setup was to keep it fairly civil inside, but with a few added extra's like the rollbar, bucket seats and harnesses to help with safety as the car never came with airbags! Haven't run a radio or speaker system in a few years, and will continue that way. I enjoyed the touchscreen toucan as I could make changes on the fly, but as I'm a shortie with proportionally longer legs, it was always slightly unconfortable to make changes to the toucan whilst strapped in with the harnesses as it was just out of natural reach for my little arms :3 So the toucan is now sold and will be replaced with a CAN based steering wheel button system. Moving forward, I decided to ditch basically all of the interior, other than the dash so an intricate cage could be installed. A rendering of the design of the cage done by JP Cages. Really nice cage, but interior will have to be sacrificed for the pleasure. Between this cage, a seat upgrade, 6 point harnesses, Hans Device & other safety equipment I will have some confidence for the future usage of the car (more details in future!) So a few months ago I took her back into the workshop, assumed my fighting stance and got to work on removing the engine and gearbox. Goodbye 1.5JZ! Engine on the stand looking a bit more naked Luckily have a friend in Finland with a cool Chaser who wanted to go a bit mental on a build, and we struck a deal for him to buy my built head, turbo & intake setup so he could transplant onto his. Leaving me with my old shortblock to put towards a new setup that I can use for some testing. My weapon of choice this time round was a 2JZGE VVTi head. Sometime last year I purchased a number of 2JZGE engines whilst they were still somewhat cheap, so I could use towards this build and have a surplus of spare parts that I can use for development or replacement on this new setup. Here we have my new GE head and old 1J head heading off to machinist. 1J for a quick skim, checkover & clean. 2J head going off to get skimmed, cleaned and have head machined for Kelford 202D VVTi cams & valves set. I'll go into the details of the engine & associated parts in future posts, but the initial engine setup will be somewhat "basic". We have had some fantastic results using relatively basic setups on the 2JZGE VVTi head as it flows so damn well in stock form. So in the name of science I will start with a setup similar to this and push it as hard as I can to gain a baseline of data in terms of performance. From there I'll advance the development of the head and shortblock and record changes relative to the baseline at each stage. With the world getting turned on it's head over the last few year years, the supplychain for parts in the aftermarket has taken quite a bit hit and delivery time for parts are sometimes painful. I had hoped to get most of my parts in by August this year, and whilst I have a nice stash of new parts to go, I have been waiting over 6 months for some, likely to need to wait until the new year for delivery. So the project has been delayed considerable, which has allowed for some signficant project creep to set in. But as we all like photos and shiney parts, here is one of newest parts that I can't wait to test. Garrett G40-1150 is garrett's newest offering to replace the GTX4088, and going off compressor/turbine sizings put it in competing range of a precision 6870-7275. Although the turbo is offered in a vband housing, I opted for a T4 housing just in case the turbo is a bit of a flop and I want to change to something else that uses T4, otherwise my new exhaust manifold would be locked into a garrett vband which only runs a few garrett turbo's. I opted for a 1.06 A/R housing and bought the larger 1.19 housing to do some back to back testing to see what would suit my new high revving 2J head better. Sending off my 1JZ parts to my friend in Finland, which also happens to be the home of PGS transmissions who built my R154 dog engagement box. On a rather vigerous night of testing I managed to damage the dogteeth on my 4th gear dogring with a horrible shift my side, so box will be returning to PGS. PGS have also kindly offered to beef up my input shaft and a few gears with an uprated design after I told them the kind of power and abuse I plan to give this thing. I am enjoying how ridiculous it is to run an R154 based gearbox at these levels, and will keep going till I split this box in half or similar catastrophic failure, then maybe I'll re-evaluate. So fast foward to today, my wiring room at SRD is nearly overflowing with parts ready for the new setup, but until its all ready to go in I need to prepare the car to get its cage installed. The stripdown has begun. Have a few more days remove all the sound deadening, remove the glass and prepare the engine bay. More soon!

Sold

Sold

A Pillar trim has two small screw holes from a previous install. oh and a hole where gauge wiring once went through. B Pillar trim has a mark or two but otherwise ok. Both have all tabs etc intact. £80 posted for all the above £60 collected from SRD

Very exciting part, so please try and contain yourselves. Fully functional, looking for new home. £25 posted

Bought this brand new in box 2 years ago. Has been fitted to my car since, but still in pretty decent condition considering. £150 Ideally collection from SRD as akward to post, but could quote if shipping required.

Moving to a weld in cage so have my cage and associated parts up for sale. Cusco 5 Point Cage Safety 21, specced with additional harness bar This is a bolt in half cage from cusco. I spec'd it with the additional harness bar for so I could run aftermarket harnesses safely. If you wish to use normal belts and have rear passenger then the harness & cross bar can be left unbolted so rear seats can still have a passenger sit in them. Comes with all bolts and mounting hardware, install is fairly easy and non intrusive for the driver. I have poorly cut up my quarter panel plastics to fit with the cage, so will include these in sale as they will fit straight in with cage without having to cut your own plastics up. Rear upper seat section in good condition, other than foam pushed in where harness bar was mounted. Again, might be worth purchasing with cage as its already worked together so no need to sacrifice another rear seat. Potentially the foam can be pursuaded back into normal location. Rear lower leather seats in good condition, no rips etc. Road legal buckle style genuine takata harnesses. Will use eye bolts to mount lower belt sections and upper section mounts straight to harness bar on cage. I used eye bolts that screwed into factory seat belt mounts and worked great, so would recomend the same to fit these. Individual Prices Cage with plastics: £320 Upper Rear Seat: £50 Lower Rear Seat: £100 Takata Harnesses: £100 If you buy the whole lot as a package then £500. Probably best to collect from SRD as awkward to ship. But could probably pallet to ship it, but will need to quote.

Sounds like fuel pump ECU or signal wiring to it is having an issue. is this a completely oem setup or any modifications?

If you want perfect fitment, by the real deal from Japan and no knock offs from the UK lol

There are only two aftermarket cat companies I would consider using parts from: https://gsportbygesi.com/high-performance-catalytic-converters/g-sport-emissions-systems-products/ https://hjs-motorsport.de/en/products/motorsport Both can be sourced via Evok3 or similar companies. You will require some custom fabication work to get this installed, no plug and play kits. If you are going to bother with a cat then you need to make sure it balances well with the rest of your setup. No point putting a tiny cat on a massive single turbo, as you will have issues. Likewise no point putting a massive cat on an NA that it cant heat up effieciently. Depending on your current power level, you can choose a large enough cat that will flow enough to not cause a flow restriction for most road cars, which means you can avoid having to do twin pipe systems with valves and lots of nonsense that will be a pain to maintain. In terms of packaging on a 3 or 3.5'' exhaust system, you can plum a cat in-line that will work with a Supra's underbody that will support around 850hp fairly comfortably. Once you want to go 1000hp+ with a cat, then the packaging of 4'' exhaust piping with a 5'' or larger cat becomes a bit of a problem and some creativity will be required, but most cars at this level are hardly road cars anymore, more race orientated so cats arent really high on the priority list. Interesting video that has some data on cat vs no cat. Another thing worth mentioning with cats is that its no good just putting one on the car and hoping for the best (although it will be better than nothing) Cats need to be at a certain temperature to do their job effectively, if they are too cold or too hot then they wont do much or can cause damage to themselves. They also need the correct ratio of air & exhaust gases to clean the waste air efficiently, and their placement in the exhaust system will have an affect on how easy it is to get them running efficiently. In an ideal scenario you would need a standalone ecu that can monitor Pre CAT AFR, Post CAT AFR, Pre CAT Temp, Post CAT Temp and have some dedicated strategies that will run in a closed loop function to maintain the cats efficiency during a multitude of different running conditions (Cold Start, Cruising, Deceleration etc...). A exhaust gas analyser will also be required whilst testing and setting up your systems as this will be whats used in most MOT/TUV centres to check the cat is working as effienctly as possible. The implementation of the above can be quite involved and not cheap to implement. Luckily the UK's MOT test is fairly basic so I wouldnt lose too much sleep over it. Some of the testing strategies in Europe for TUV is very involved and a bit harder than just holding an engine at 3000rpm for 30seconds and checking the gases being released. So hopefully it dosent become as stringent as that in the future, otherwise might have a harder task on our hands going forward. Ive never met anyone who's been stopped at the roadside and checked and penalized for lack of a cat in a Supra. I think most authorities think its just an old shitter, dosent have one anyway. I've been stopped in multiple countries in my supra and never had a cat and never had an issue.

Think you need to learn to control 400hp first, let alone 1300hp

If you can get the car to SRD at some point then I can take a look. Having main beams come on with dipped beams when you pull the stalk is normal. If the car has had an immobilizer/alarm previously, then start by ripping that shit out and putting every back to stock and start fresh as it were.

Supra Specialists in the UK that are worth going to: SRD Tuning Garage Whifbitz Magnum Performance Most local garages have no idea what they are doing on older cars, my advise would be to take it to a specialist.