Mike2JZ

Once car is started and brake vaccum is working, then the pedal will feel softer. But you should rebleed all your brakes if you have been moving hardlines around. When I did mine, I had to bleed my brakes then drive the car and get ABS to kick in 5 times before rebleeding brakes again and then they felt normal.

The only ones I've seen come close to these price tags are the 26 quicksilvers in the USA. Think WOTM garage owns #1 and sold it for stupid money, but still no where as close as z-tune

I've checked mine now, ignore my last post. I have done mine like the guy has shown in the link you have.

Instead of writing this here, why don't you pick up the phone or message the guy who runs the place and ask him to take it down. Why is this even an issue?

Zoom in if it helps, anyway according the diagram you have setup your pipes correctly.

I used the diagram on this page when I put my brake system back together. This should answer your question. http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1996/supra/jza80-almsf/4_291130_008_/powertrain-chassis/4708_brake-tube-clamp/2

remove ignition coils and check for signs of arcing.

yeah dont see why not, part number is 90179-26006 (42311G - NUT (FOR REAR AXLE SHAFT)

I've got one dude, can pick it up from my workshop on friday evening and send in post on saturday if that works for you

Just take it to a friendly garage instead of messing around with cats...

TT or NA? Auto/Manual etc?

Recently rebuilt my rear subframe with new bits and it's feel really good, have got rid of the symptoms that prompted me to do it in the first place. The front diff mounts were pretty worn, and I changed them over with a superpro polybush kit. I still hear a bit of clunking from the diff, and also noticed that the poly bushes are creaking and squeaking, even after lubing them with marine grease. I've checked the torque on the bolts twice now, and that seems to be fine. Anyone got any suggestions on what else I can do to get rid of the squeaking?

Need to take my car for a spin so I'm up for a meet this friday if it's still on

I've still yet to see anyone using this setup sucessfully in a road car

+1 for locking tool. Had a few times where starter trick worked and others where locking was required

If you need a small case diff replacement then I think supraleeturbo has one for sale for a good price.

If we are going off potential market value then 14-15k.

Get someone to check that cam timing has been set correctly, then check with a timing light that ignition timing has been set to 10btdc. On my phone right now but let me know if you need more explanation on the above

Just buy yourself second hand turbo's for a few hundred, don't go crazy on the boost and keep saving for single or hybrid's later.

Engine is now running and car is driving finally. After getting the ignition timing she now purrs away at 900rpm at idle, and no more misfiring. She pulls just as nicely as before. Coolant temperature has also been very good, not overheated once and no coolant leaks from water pump that I can see. However not everything is perfect. a) Have got a powersteering leak from the high pressure hose connector that goes to rack. The mating surface on the hose was nicked when I pulled the engine out, so even with a new copper crash washer, the surface isn't perfectly flat and allows for fluid to escape. Have tried sanding surface back to get it smooth as possible & using gasket maker, which has helped the situation but is still allowing for fluid to leak. I'm out of funds for the moment, but will get a new hose line at the start of next month. b) Had a fuel leak out of injector #1. I remember losing one of the new o-rings that came with the gasket set, and had to reuse an old one, so put it on injector #1 for ease of access just in case. I can't remember the o-ring I put in being this munted, but explains why it was leaking. Replaced it with a new one and leak was gone. So this is how the bay looks at the moment. Haven't finished tidying it up completely whilst I'm still testing the car. By this weekend however I expect that: - Fan & Fan Shroud will be repainted black and installed - Exhaust heat shield to be painted and installed - Finalize & wrap the ignition coil wires - Hide the audio system power wire through right wing - Mount the air filter properly with metal brace - create a mounting system for the HID's - Rebleed brakes now that ABS has been used a few times - Weather has been a bit shit recently, so waiting for some sunny days to finally give the car a clean and take some photos

sweet drift bro

Check error codes, if they say nothing useful then figure out if you are missing spark or fuel. From there you can go into the electronics like sensors

Got the engine ready for it's first start up. Just to see if it was able to fire up with the bare minimum. First two times I tried to start it, there was a fuel leak at the fuel filter from me not being able to find the correct copper washers for the banjo bolts. Luckily found them soon after and had the fuel system leak free. Third time round, Was missing a bit from incorrect ignition timing which was expected but she fired [video=youtube;qz2p6Ln-OhQ] Put the car up on the ramp afterwards to get started bolting on the rest of the engine bay/radiators/interior/gearbox etc. Came back in the next morning and noticed this under the floor directly beneath my engine Fresh engine oil that I traced back to the lower sump. I thought about leaving it as it was quite a small leak, but given the effort I've given to the rest of the engine I don't think I could of slept at night knowing I left it, and at the end of the day thankfully it was just the lower sump. So engine was lifted slightly on crane and sump was removed, cleaned, and new gasket used with slightly more around the areas where I normally pry the sump from. Sump is no longer leaking now. After that delay it was back to the rest of the rebuild. Removed the inner front arches from both sides and routed,tied the looms as high as possible just to reduce chances of wheels scrubbing through them. The exedy friction plate I have is still in good nick, but I got a new release bearing & pressure plate as my last ones were in a bad state thanks to a dodgy garage. clutch went in with no hassle, followed by the gearbox & prop. Then the new wheels and tyres arrived and they look so tasty, going to fit a lot nicer than my last set. Then before I could do more, we had a modern inline 6 twin turbo "supra" join us in the garage for a meth kit install. At 18psi of boost is definately feels similar to a BPU supra

There should be a camber adjuster on the bolt, as well as another one you slide onto the bolt where the nut will sit. Without both I could see why the bolt might spin