Mike2JZ

Pictures might help

"a wet test will always result in a slightly better reading, and is not a definitive sign of badly sealing valves" That's the point I was referring to

awesome result! rear numberplate looks a bit comical though, why so small?

The Significance of running a wet test following the dry test is to see what compression can be reached and what cylinders are still low and if the same symptoms are present or disappear with the addition of oil. No point did g wet test by itself with no dry sample to compare with. Cheap, quick and rough way of getting an idea of cylinder sealing if a leak down test kit is not present

Well if you are confident that the engine was warm enough then the results you got show the engine could be in better condition. Edit: I would still do a wet test however, given the differences you are seeing across cylinders

Not much point doing a compression check if engine is not at proper running temperature. I would do it again and do a dry, followed by wet test, depending on results you wouldn't need to bother with a leak down test.

You are just exceeding the limit of the acceptable range of differences between cylinder compression as specified by toyota. Might be worth doing a wet test to see what the numbers are then.

Yeah that could work, just need it for a quick job.

Anyone got one, or can point me in the direction of one supplied in the UK?

Thanks practicing makes it quicker every time for sure. Sounds good, hopefully see you soon

Seems legit

Recently I've fixed the powersteering issues with a new high pressure hose, and have bled a few times to make sure there is no air in ABS pump and they feel great again. Had an oil leak at the front of the engine since I rebuilt the engine. Nothing major, but enough to annoy me as it was making a mess, so it had to go. The leak was in an annoying spot behind the lower engine cover, so it couldn't be changed/fixed without taking the front part of the engine off, or even the whole engine out all together. Thought that maybe the new seal I put in on the rebuilt was done incorrectly, so changed that as it's the easiest to get to but turned out to be dry. The only other thing in that area was the oil pump/upper sump which requires engine out job. Had the car in on the ramps saturday morning, pulled the engine out and stripped the bottom sumps & oil pump off. On the off chance the leak/seal failure was being caused by the oil pump, I ordered a new oem one just to be safe knowing it was new. Also modified the relief valve on the oil pump by porting it out slightly, allowing for more oil and less pressure build up around the front crank seal (not that I have to worry to much with an NA about this, but good future proofing) Turns out the leak was coming from a failure in the RTV sealant I used previously where the oil pump connects with the upper sump. So "upgraded" my choice of RTV this time to loctite copper and put the engine back together. Ready to go back in Had everything back in by sunday evening, put it through it's passes on the way home and no leaks. Got a trip into europe coming up soon, so I just need to sort out suspension alignment, new crank pulley & new rad hoses and I should be ready to go

You using the correct type of bolt for the sandwich plate? I've seen some bad chinese ones that don't come with bolts that have holes to allow oil to flow through

Such a bad advert

I was watching your videos, was this on the original engine of the car, or the NA-T engine? If it was the NA-T one, did you ever see it run? If it were me I would get an oil pressure tester on the engine asap and figure out if you are making absolutely no pressure at the sensor, or if there is something watch the behavior of the pressure reading. Could be a worn pump caused by blockage? If you are in need of a GE oil pump, I've just taken one off mine that I know runs that I can donate to help with your test

How much for the workshop manuals

Incoming recession

Can you scan the performance portfolio, would be an awesome piece of history to look at

In the second photo it's a bit hard to gauge as the seat has been removed, but does the pipe sit above or behind the drivers head?

I've got the superpro bushings and to be honest I can't really notice any difference with them in.

Probably because all the spokesmen are c$%£s

Hmm I keep looking at this. Are there any photos of the bits?

For that sort of power level, you will need to build the head and bottom end. I don't know of any GE engines running on stock internals at 900 fwhp

The pipe you highlighted is the return. As said above, its not high pressure so you could probably replace the whole section of tubing easily, just cut off the fitting and use something else to secure the new hose in place.

v2 does have engine protection features btw, but if you are investing serious money into an engine then I'd go for something like Syvecs, AEM infinitiy, motec etc, V2 is quite basic in comparison.