Mike2JZ

Actually if you post up the part number of the second ECU you have, that should help in finding what sort of supra it came from

Hmm can't say I've ever put in an ecu that's been from a facelift NA running OBDII, all my tests have been with prefacelift running OBDI. Perhaps there is a compatibility issues between them. I might be wrong, but I seem to remember that facelift NA's that use ODBII also use a MAF sensor rather than a MAP sensor? This could be the reason why idle is all over the place? Perhaps another member can confirm if they have tried this combo successfully or not.

Ok, lets rewind a second here. What are the issues you are trying to resolve by putting in a new ECU? Did putting in the new ECU cause the idle revs to jump, or was this happening already? Are we talking about a manual or automatic na?

Based purely off the photos and to fight the sellers corner a bit. The interior and engine bay look good, it's really only the paint that is letting down the car (assuming underside isn't rotten and mechanically everything is as it should be. Asking price is a tad high, but 6k offer suggestions are pretty laughable.

The numbers you mentioned are not the part numbers for the ECU. Most likely just the revision number as suggested in this thread So long as they both say 2JZ-GE, plug the sucker in and see if it does the job. I've swapped in a few 2JZGE ECU's into mine for diagnosis purposes and never had an issue

Enjoy your theories

What? The attacker was a french national and lived in france all his life, how does this relate to migrant issue?

Has it been resprayed (overspray on inside) ? I think someone would buy all this for £300. I know I wouldn't pay more unless each component was in vgc

Just FYI you can get a brand new bumper from Toyota for a bit less then you have stated. Maybe take that into account with your pricing.

Didn't realize Auto Express was Toyota

Pricing on the shell is entirely dependant on the condition of it. It's very hard to pluck a number from thin air. I've seen shells go from £150 all the way to 2K+. So there is a broad spectrum of possibilities. If you want some proper opinions on the price of the shell, get some proper photos documenting the condition of the underbody/suspenion/body panels/engine bay etc. If that's too much effort, then just set a price and hope it does the job

I'd take the engine and interior out and sell the rest as a shell.

Got any pictures of it? Condition of underside etc?

Can't wait for people to stop reading bs on the internet then linking it here "AMIGAWD NEW SUPRA". If it hasn't come officially from Toyota then who knows what will happen

Have you double checked your results with an actual mechanical pressure gauge, rather than what syvec sensor is telling you?

That T56 kit looks nice, but I hope they start introducing more road friendly clutches, all the paddle & multi plate clutches they offer current will probably make it a pig to drive in town.

"Dear Mr Smith" Couldn't have gone for a better cliche. I feel like the letter is faked, release the name and let them burn

Always worth doing a fluid + filter changes on the car just to put your mind at ease knowing it's been done. I would look at the coolant level as well

Boris Johnson for new top gear presenter

Might want to include a price

Adding oil tests out piston rings unless they are completely gone. If compression is still low then that's your queue for a leak down test as it's most likely valve related. If you don't have a leak down test kit to hand, then wet testing is the closet thing you can do to get a rough idea of what's going on inside. That's all I'm trying to say. Obviously you can have a situation where rings and valves are in a poor state, but the next best thing after doing a leak down and is easy for most DIY'ers to do is a wet test. The results from dry vs wet are going to say a lot more than cold/warm dry tests.

If you are buying an NA-T for 5k, then be sure it's been done with quality parts and a proper map etc. Some NA 5 speeds are selling for that price, so I'm wondering why the NA-T is so cheap, even if it an auto. A lot of NA-T's are done on a budget, and it shows when they go wrong or just lack anything lackluster when you put your foot down. Worst thing you could do is buy a lemon and you will quickly piss away the extra money you had fixing the thing cause it was done cheaply at first. If you are set on an NA-T i'd up the budget for a car to 7-8k and find yourself a really nice example that needs no messing around with.

If you have that much to put into a NA-T then just save a bit more and get the TT6, will be better in the long run.