Mike2JZ

Picked up this HKS exhaust from LeeP a while back. Turned out to be an older style hi power exhaust made from mild steel pipework & stainless steel back box. Back box and pipework needed a bit of a clean and there was a small tear on the rear pipework where it had hit/scraped over one too many bumps, which needed some welding up again. Started by raising the car 10mm in the front and 5mm in the rear in preparation for the next track day, as I was scraping on front arches under tight corners/harsh bumps, thought it might help with exhaust clearance as well. Scraping was bad enough with the 3’’ toyosport exhaust I had previously, but the HKS pipework looks like it hangs lower. From there I gave the back box a light sand followed by a polish and got 90% of the impurities out of the back box. Surprised how nicely it came out given it didn’t take me very long to reach this point. Next up was the welding. Was a little tricky as some of the metal where the tear was really thin from being cheese grated across every bump in the country previously. Have welded the tear till it’s sealed now, but have also ordered some mild steel plates to weld on top next week to give the welds some protection against bumps etc. Will grab some photos once that’s been done. Fitment of the exhaust is really nice once bolted in and it sounds really nice, but a little drone @ 2k. Only issue with it currently is how low the rear pipe section of the exhaust sits to the floor. Might need to get a new second decat and cut/weld the flange slightly so I can twist the HKS exhaust so it sits closer to the chassis. Or leave it low and add the “spark plates/exhaust protection plates” to my list of 6-month service items: P

Oil Temp, Water Temp, Exhaust Gas Temperature (per cylinder if really want to go overboard) If I had an ECU of that caliber I would want all these temperature sensors for logging and alert setups.

Considering the line out of the block to the cooler could be seeing temps over 90+ then I would imagine it's probably a good idea, not like a bit of sleeving just to cover the ground cables is going to hurt

Should hope so given it's one of the first place the oil goes after the pump

I have my oil pressure sensor on the stock oil pressure switch port. Located just to the left of the oil filter and will require the AC pump to be moved to get access whilst fitting.

If you have the Greddy oil cooler kit then it should come with it's own sandwich plate already? Do you know which one you have, as the ones I'm seeing online come with an oil cooler and oil relocate kit already. If you want to run a remote kit & an oil cooler then you the oil would need to flow from Block -> Sandwich plate-> Cooler -> Filter -> Sandwich Plate -> Block I would expect that the Greddy sandwich plate would come with 2 1/8 sensor holes, so shouldn't have a problem putting both your oil & temp sensors into that.

Take fuel hanger back out and check you didn't damage the fuel sender when you put it in whilst changing pump. It's pretty fragile

Get yourself an aftermarket ECU first, I have my doubts as to weather the NA stock ecu can handle bigger cams without running like a dog

Thanks that does sound about right. I'll stick a caliper on the pipes it goes onto and see the OD of that.

Of course after sorting my high pressure line leak, my return line has now sprung a leak. Couldn't find a part number for this line, so planning on getting a replacement from some hose specialists near me. Does anyone know what the inner diameter of the lines are here, as it would save me having to flush my PS system to find out

Are you using a sandwich plate? Last time I saw an NA-T shoot it's oil filter out on startup was because the owner didn't use the correct type of stud when replacing the oil filter housing with a sandwich plate

Gary did the same for me a while ago with a part for my headlight, top bloke!

Ah so the overfueling is on the na, not the NA-T. There is no fuel ecu on an na. check your ignition timing, and whilst car idles unplug each injector individually, if you don't hear a difference when you unplug then you will have an issue with the fuel side. try and identify what cylinder issue is on, and if you can make the problem go to another cylinder or not

What ECU is it running, if it's aftermarket have you tried hooking up a laptop and seeing what the fuel map is doing?

Last time one of my alternators died on me it was making a terrible screeching sound from engine bay, if it's that then you would know pretty quickly. Half the supra's I see these days have the power steering whine. Even if your fluid is full, if there is any air in the system then it creates a slight whine when the pump is under load. All it takes is a slight leak somewhere on the PS system (which isn't hard to believe given their ages these days) and you get the sound.

Was on the way to airport and spotted this. Was parked down a few spots in mine but didn't see the owner, anyone here?

It's a bit of an annoyance to change but nothing you can't do with basic tools. Would recommend taking your cam covers off though to get more clearance if space is an issue.

Before heading out to Europe I treated the interior to a small update with gauges so I could monitor the engine on the fly. Installed the following: 3 Way T piece off the stock oil pressure sender location on block. Can run the stack sender, stock low oil pressure sensor & blank cap, which I might put an oil temp sensor on. NA version of a boost gauge Trip around Europe went well, no leaks from engine anymore and performance feels bang on. No more rear swaying/tramlining whilst on motorways, and felt solid ripping through the french motorways at silly speeds during the early hours of the morning. Also managed to meet a fellow MKIV supra member out in Switzerland, and had a good day together blasting through the swiss countryside. He was on the fence about importing his TT6 to switzerland, but after a day out in mine I think his mind has been made on that decision! Once back in the UK went for a track day at lydden hill to see how the car felt post subframe/suspension rebuild. Supra felt amazing around the track. RSR semi slicks really stuck to the track no matter how hard I went into the corner. Obviously not the fastest down the straight, but being able to minimize braking and throw the car round corners with no fear of understeer/oversteer was a great experience. But as every track day goes, something has to break. Fan shroud clips weren't great to begin with and after some punishment round the track, the shroud managed to dislodge itself and the fan chewed itself to pieces and ripped itself off the viscous pulley. Luckily no other damage, and managed to get a new fan on within an hour and was back on the track to finish off the other sessions. Other then that only real complaint was that my ride height on the rear was a little low and had some scraping under sharp turns, but easy enough to alter and change for future sessions. Got a small powersteering leak from the powersteering cooler return line, so planning on getting an a new auto rad as mine needs replacing then I can route powersteering into the trans cooler on the rad. Also picked up a used HKS Hi Power exhaust from SRD, which I will restore then put on. Other than those two things no major plans on the horizon other than saving for turbo / ridox bodykit / respray.

Engine bay needs to be painted before you can ask 20k+ in my opinion

Depending on where in Kent you are, if you need a hand with heater matrix or want a second opinion on anything you have found then I'll be happy to look

Have fun driving down the motorway in the rain

That is more or less on the money.

Sell Greddy and buy a mishimoto with money earnt? Or get the hacksaw out and sort the bumper out

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35932-Fuel-Cut