Mike2JZ

Hard to say considering I have never seen your car or the tune in real life. All I can say is that if you want to do things the safe way then: I would set boost target to wastegate spring pressure. Set your AFR target to be slightly richer then the optimal target. Spend most of your time setting up the fuel map, again edging on being slightly richer and on ignition table, tune is fairly conservatively. With those things taken into account I wouldn't hesitate calmly driving the car off boost until you get a proper tuner to help you out on a dyno.

Depends really. You need to test and identify if boost creep is actually happening, as I only made a suggestion. Use chris's test above, or set target boost pressure on controller to wastegate spring pressure, go for a ride and check boost gauge & logs to see if boost is stable or overshooting the mark. If it is boost creep then you need to identify if it's a flow issue (aka, poor manifold design) or if the wastegate is a bottleneck. Looking at your spec, your .68 ar hotside isn't huge and if you are hitting close to your 20lbs of boost target then I don't think 38mm should be a problem, though it's possible at lower boost levels that the wastegate can't keep up.

A 38mm wastegate seems pretty small for the setup you have, could be leading to boost creep? Are you trying to setup baseline using wastegate spring pressure? If so, the wastegate could not be big enough for the job. Can you tell us what you estimate horsepower goal as well as what max targeted boost pressure?

Hello Supra Fanatics, So there are quite a few of us with Supra's down in Kent and somehow we have never had our own meet that involves a bit of a early morning drive. So before winter is upon us again, please feel free to join us for the following: Meeting at 08:30AM at Kingsmead Car Park in Canterbury (CT1 1BN) Map Link Once everyone has arrived we will take a spirited drive out of the city, through some of the neighboring countryside before ending up in Ashford at Works Cafe. From there we can get some photos and either go for another drive or head home depending on what people want. Depending on the weather we get on the day this may change, but currently have a ~40 mile (~1 hour) trip planned, which has nice mix of driving roads planned through the countryside/forest of the surrounding areas. Mix of long sweeping roads with plenty of room for overtakes & some tighter twisties. All planned roads are decently paved and no speed bumps, so low cars won't have a problem. Facebook Event Link (need to be logged in to FB for link to work)

Took me many years to save to up for my Supra, even as an NA, but by the time I was 22 I had enough to go for it. Definitely the best decision I've made, hard to imagine life without owning it. Two years later had plenty of up's and downs and times where I was broke as hell because of it, but so far nothing sorts me out better then tinkering on it followed by "testing" it out on my favorite roads. I'm on a similar pay bracket, similar age etc and all I can tell you is this. If you expect to pay for bills/rent or morgage/insurance/tax/daily fuel costs of supra/maintenance/food/clothes etc then be prepared to make sacrifices to things you previously enjoyed in order to stay afloat, because it will take up a sizable portion of your income. And if you are planning to borrow 8k+ then you will need to take the payback of that into account as well, so play it smart. The only guys I know in their early 20's these days who can afford TT's and serious upgrades are those who are making a lot more than you, still live with their parents/have parents money to burn, or got into the TT game a few years ago when a small loan could land you a decent TT for less than 10k. So hopefully you have something to ease the financial stress of getting one at a young age, otherwise it can be difficult. Especially if the car gets serious mechanical issues. Anyway, I'm not trying to put you off the idea. Even against all that potential hardship I will still be the first person to tell you to go for it, but you need to be dedicated to the cause as it can and will test you from time to time.

Wish I had the money for this. The exact spec & color I want if upgrading to a TT, I'm sure someone will pick this up quick. GLWS

As far as I know the kit used on TOM/Denso supra is completely custom for the GT/TC series and not sold to the public. Either way it's going to be big money to do this properly. These two have tried using body kits readily available to the masses, but if you are being pedantic then you can say neither comes close to resembling the proper car. But if you like the two looks of either of these below, then it would be pretty easy to recreate.

Unless you have the bodykit/wheels etc to go with it, then it will probably look a bit naff. I think russ will have some better photos if he sees this thread, but his supra came with castrol decals etc and looked pretty cheese on a stock body

Daaa-yuuum, more please

Ah I remember this game. Burna's Dungeon

What waste gate are you running? Are you running a boost controller or solenoid?

Next to fuel filter

check ignition timing

I would mount that somewhere near the gearbox, maybe on a bracket held in with the gearbox bolts. Then you can jack the car slightly on passenger side and take filter off from there. Those lines should be as short as possible in my opinion.

Can you send me a dynosheet privately?

Cams & E85

It is bloody cheese

Yeah on the way to my unit there is lots of nice roads to go for it, but there are lots of dips/bumps. Normally if the car can handle those bumps without issue, then I'm good for 90% of whats out there on the road.

So the new exhaust is great. Even with the first cat in, it's bloody loud which was unexpected. Anyway, I welded it previously where it had a hole just to get it on the car, but in the last 2 weeks I've been scraping it whilst flooring it over bumps etc Was expected more damage to the welds but they held up, only 1 minor blow. Cleaned up the area around the welds first and spent some time reinforcing the current welds. Next was to tac weld a 1.5mm sheet of mild steel, then hammer it to shape before welding it on properly to provide an additional layer of "skin" to that area of the exhaust. Should also make some good sparks if it hits the ground Not the sexiest welding ever but so long as it holds and does it job then I could care less. Put on some exhaust paint afterwards and spent some time re-doing the gaskets on the exhaust before putting back in. To complement this I also dropped the front suspension by 5mm and raised the rear by 10mm. So far there has been zero exhaust scrapes or tyre rubbing whilst pushing the car on bumpy, so I think I've found the ideal height setup for daily driving for now. My old radiator was also slowly dying, as the plastic mounts for the water hoses had disintegrated. Luckily had another supra member exchange me his auto radiator with trans cooler in exchange to help him fit a new one. Grabbed some new hoses whilst I was at it just in case. New radiator in. Managed to badly spray the wrinkle finish on the top as the can ran out, so need to go back and sort that out at a later date. Removed the stock NA PS cooler, and ran some new power steering lines from the trans cooler. Into the spare parts cave with you! My powersteering woe's are almost complete. Just need to get a gasket rebuild kit for the pump to stop it leaking there and then all this will be done, can't wait.

Feel free to come check out my heater if you ever see me, in winter is boiling in the car. So oem or not, it does the job

Well it's basically a water radiator, it felt ok didn't feel cheap, was in much better state than the matrix coming out. Been in since year and a half with no problems. I noticed it was a bit thinner than oem, but it fitted.

I've got a demisterman one in mine, no issues so far.

Oil Cap coming off is going to make a mess, but won't cause oil seal to fail as it has nothing to do with oil pressure. The only times I've seen oil caps/breather systems etc come off is on turbo engines with excessive crank case pressure (RB25 chucking it's oil on full boost straight out rocker covers from excessive bottom end wear and large turbo) Let's hope you didn't screw it on properly rather than having cc pressure issues.

You can change the front crank seal with the front of the car jacked up, but the front side of the engine has to come off more or less. Rear crank requires gearbox to come off. Both do-able with engine in car, but nice and easy with engine out

Why not go oem, can get both for £30 from import car parts.