Mike2JZ

Seems like you have a big project on your hands! Welcome and looking forward to your updates

Here's a decent example. [video=youtube;cNNFPGjny-o]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNNFPGjny-o

I just pulled apart a 3SGTE engine that had been "built" previously from some random garage. The incorrectly sized bottom bearings completely let go, sized the crank in the process. There is hardly anyone out there I would trust with doing the internals of my engine, hopefully you get some competent mechanics this time.

In my opinion it is better to own the supra without questioning values rather then beating yourself up about how much it could be potentially worth every 2 minutes. Especially if it's your first one If you want it, get it, go through the trials and tribulations of owning one and attribute it to the experience. I paid similar insurance when I first got mine, and it was just an NA! I don't regret a thing years later!

Love the all in one dash unit, didn't even know defi made those

The amount of people that say that and then get burned is quite shocking. Be careful!

Not sure what I was smoking in my last post. I wasn't being clear, the oil pumps I was on about are OEM, they just have the drain valve ported. So in fact I wasn't disagreeing, just suggesting a modification. If the whole engine is coming apart for a rebuild then I think it would be in the OP's best interest to consider it.

I would disagree with the oil pump suggestion. By all means go oem on it, but companies like powerhouse supply their own pumps that have ported drain valves which in theory help reduce the pressure put on the front crank seal, especially on high horsepower applications. If you are handy with a drill then you can do this yourself though

Mismatched rear tyres are in for 2016 ? Car looks really nice, loving the bay

I usually get my tyres from Tyreleader, depending on time of year, available deals, stock levels etc you can get some really nice deals. I had a crappy customer experience with them once, luckily all other times I got my tyres within 2 days of order.

Its the black sensor on the left of the TPS

+1 also glad you aren't selling this, still very interested to see how it performs. Not long to go!

Most people I see in the UK who have them do it for the bling factor rather than getting any performance gain from adjustable cams. But yes, in theory they should complement aftermarket cams

I've seen a cam gear come straight off a running 2J from the mechanic not torqing down the cam bolts properly. Aside from a new cam belt and a scratched up cam cover, there was no damage, so no need to exaggerate that there will be thousand of pounds of damage. Non interference ftw

Well bit of a change of plans. Insurance told me to gtfo when I told them about my plans for full standalone NA-T build, but they did accept a 1J engine swap. So fast forward to today and a cheeky 1JZ arrived, bought from pedrotwosixfour's track car. Got most of the parts needed to swap it in, just waiting on a turbo elbow to arrive. Can't wait for some turbo action

Those Aux output's need to be differentiated by RPM. 1st turbo, VSV, (AUX1) should have 100% duty cycle earlier on in rev range (~2000/2500rpm), whilst 2nd turbo (AUX2) should have full duty cycle kicking in around (3500-4000) Only thing I don't know is if AUX 1 needs to return to 0%, remains at 100 or requires another partially open value after AUX 2 kicks in. Understanding the logic of the stock system is half the battle here, after that the implementation looks simple enough with the interface

£500 is cute, but if you do anything related to driveline,suspension,chassis etc then get ready to spend 10 times your original estimate.

The BMW M cars have the LSD that Supra should of come with imo

Another option could be to use whiteline "heavy duty" drop links. Which are decently priced, http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC139&sq=29025

Ah I see, yes might as well then. Interested to see your review on it.

Cusco RS diff should fit the small case, I think the MZ version is for the large case diff

All depends. TRD back in the day made internal replacements for both big and small case diffs, the small ones being rocking horse poo to find these days. Not sure on the other, but I'd be surprised if they didn't include said information on their information pages.

The big case diff is oem. Diffs came in either a small or larger diff case depending on the model. Most TT6 prefacelift jspec supra's came with the larger casing diff. You can check if yours has it on the engine bay vin plac, your differential code should start with B if you have a large case, or A if you have a small case, for example B02B or A01B etc. The issue with all the supra factory LSD's are that they are torsen diffs, which means they generally last a long time and require less maintenance but due to their operation, they are far less aggressive/efficient then proper clutch type LSD's. Generally speaking a large case oem diff will be stronger than the oem small case diff and can handle more abuse. If you already have a big case diff then you could upgrade to a TRD clutch type (if you can find them) or Kaaz, OS Giken etc etc. The type of LSD you choose should also reflect the type of driving you expect to put the car through. If you only plan on driving the car on the road, I wouldn't really bother with a diff upgrade if you already have a big case, but if you expect to take it to the track then it could be worthwhile.

Why do you need soundproofing for this? Surely fixing the squeak is going to be easier, my doors and speakers don't squeak and I've ripped half the sound deadening out of my car.