Mike2JZ

E...

I suggest you stay in bed then. Nice, soft and cosy in there.

I'm sorry but that's BS. I've run everything from 45's down to 30's on my supra, and the only negatives I can list are increased harshness over bumps and less grip in the wet/cold. From what I've experienced, the 30's I had were a little much for day to day travel, but worked great on the track. The 45's I used were terrible for anything but sedate driving. I could feel the sidewalls flexing when pushing it through the corners. Not great for inspiring confidence, especially as Supra is a heavy car that likes to understeer from the factory. I'd rather sacrifice some road comfort and the loose stock handling feel for more grip and a stiffer ride.

I was running 285/30/18's on my 10.5j rears.

40's may be more comfortable, but using a 255 width tyre as an example, 35's on an 18 are practically identical to the 17''/40/255's that left the factory.

Quality.

Lol. That's from nash's kustoms (init). If that car is anything like the last that I had the joy of inspecting up close on a ramp, then i can guarantee that it will be a dog.

Facelift doesn't have the two holes for the odometer trip and reset buttons

They aren't the same part numbers between pre and facelift.

Part numbers you need: Left switch cover: 55537-14040 Middle switch cover: NA Right switch cover: 55537-14030

Ooo nice ok. In that case then, there is a guy local to kent who was recomended to me for corner weighting/geo setup. Mainly does MX5's but he has/did have a track supra. http://www.kentmx5.co.uk/ Might be worth getting in contact

Unless it's a track car then I wouldn't bother with corner weighting.

I had to modify (bridge 1 resistor) my GE clocks to work with a GTE engine, as the GE tacho takes a different signal from the distributor compared to the igniter found on the GTE.

Swap VC (+5v) & E2 (ground)

On your TPS plug, the VC pin supplies +5v.

Or if you have an aftermarket radiator or automatic rad, some have a small port located on them that is used for a stock temp sensor which that can be used for an aftermarket water temp and saves you needing to run an ugly hose adapter.

What engine management is he using? Is he using an adapter to use the stock TPS on the polished inlet?

What were the results of your diagnostics?

The GTE swap is about as easy as it's going to get when it comes to transplanting an engine and driving away the same day. Assuming you have the engine loom and ecu in good order. The NA-T swap is easy enough to fit all the hardware within the space of a weekend, if the kit is of good quality. However you are sacrificing the reliability of the stock ECU tune for a standalone or even worse a piggyback. Either will have some growing pains and almost certainly will require troubleshooting if the car develops a problem. Plus you will be relying on the tune to be of a high level in order to give you the power you want. (hint: good tuners aren't cheap) Also if I were you I would get a full diagnosis made on your current engine to check compression, leak levels, valve clearances etc before you go anywhere near trying to get 500hp out of it. If the engine is unhealthy then you will give it a quicker death by shoving boost down it's throat trying to make that power. As much as I love the 2JZGE, there is a reason hardly anyone has a completely stock one making 500whp with a bolt on kit. Those who do have nicely built GE's making near 500 or more have spent a lot more than £2'500.

lolol Doubt I'll be there, car is moving but miles off being ready.

# Yes it seems you are right, part number is the same between jspec NA/TT. That's good news then, shouldn't have an issue running my 1J on stock boost with the NA pump then.

Hi All, I'm researching what the stock NA fuel pump can flow. (part number: 23221-46070) I might have missed it in the repair manauls, but I couldn't find anything about it there and the online "consensus" seems to be that is can flow 190 LPH. Does anyone have any evidence/experience to support or disagree with 190 LPH?

So long as the 2.5'' is straight through when you go turbo, then it should be fine for a smaller responsive turbo. Only need to upgrade when the volume coming in is greater then what can be pushed out. I would consider that W58 finished unless you drive it like miss daisy

I just went to Toyota today to talk with my usual parts guy, and asked him what he knew about this whole situation. He said nothing internal has been released in the UK about the release of a new Supra, other then rumors. He also said that Toyota are planning to release a new mid range, smaller chassis sporty car which is soon to be out on the market. I'm going to pester him about this everytime I see him until I can get more out of him