Mike2JZ

These were the ones that came from parry's car?

Anytime you change with the coolant system in one way or another, you should rebleed the system including the heater system. Jack the front of the car or park it on the hill so the radiator is higher than the rest of the coolant system. Turn the heater on to max heat/max speed and start filling the radiator with coolant. Massage some of the heater and radiator pipes to help move air to the radiator. Once the coolant system starts getting warm and bubbling by the radiator, put the rad cap back on. Switch between letting the car idle and holding the revs at 3000rpm for 30seconds at a time. Check that your temp gauge is reading correctly and not overheating. Check your lower and upper radiator hoses are hot. Then check your heater hose inlet/outlet pipes, both should also be warm. If these pipes are warm but you are not getting warm air then you may have put pipes on backwards, there is a block, there is still trapped air or you need to investigate the heater electronics

Welcome to owning a 20 year old car Drop me a message if you need a hand, im only down the road

I wouldn't bother with UV protection. Just give it a very quick polish every few months and you will be good to go All plastic headlights become dull again after some time once you start sanding into them. I've yet to see any resist this, regardless of what magic elixir people try to apply to them

Get a second hand one for ~£50-60 if money is tight. Bit of a gamble on how long it will last, but will get you back on the road at least. Where in Kent are you? Can help you swap pulley's over if needed, can be a nightmare job if you don't have the tools

On my w58 to na lsd there is some float.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?316424-Sudden-appearance-of-warning-lights-Can-t-get-them-to-go-away Sounds like an alternator / charge system issue. It is not a good idea to run a new battery completely dry of power by the way. If you want an easy answer then stick a multimeter on the battery and see what it says.

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=1794&cat=89&sub=1354&sec=1563&var=35&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= or http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota-421.html

That beeping is not from a factory speaker/buzzer. Definitely aftermarket. Not sure how toad alarms work, but probably a good idea to check that. Also, when you pull the handbrake up you are missing the handbrake warning symbol on your dash cluster, only the main warning light appears. So maybe someone removed the bulb, or it is a clue to the problem you are having?

Yep you are correct

You have two types of Supra diffs. Small (A0xx) and Big case (B0xx) Yours is a big case diff, and will be more resilient to some abuse compared to a small case diff. You also have a low diff ratio that no small case diff can have.

That's just a factory torsen diff

Well I am a midget in comparison haha

I've had 4 in the car no problem. Helps if the driver is short like me so there is room behind

That thing is the fuel tank protector. There isn't one on passengerside. You can make one to fit however

What did you do regarding the oil holes not matching 100% between the 2J bottom end and 1J head?

I used spacers on my last wheels, but I couldn't wait to get rid of them. In my eyes they are just another part that could fail, better to get a wheel that fits properly. That said, I never had any issues with them, but I wasn't running 800hp either or big brakes either.

Factory boost (8 psi) should have it around 270-280. Maxing the turbo's out safely should be around 350 (~14psi). Going higher then that could bring more but could also kill the turbo's quicker.

Nope. The diff is held on the rear onto the subframe by the case/cover. So you need to disconnect it from the subframe to do this, and at that stage the diff is practically out of the car.

You are probably right, though I've used HKS filters previously without any issue, and the one I bought was a tenner so I'm not expecting much from it. This air filter is not intended for long term use, it is still better then running no air filter whilst I'm moving the car around the unit. The issue I have is that the NA stock airbox I have does not fit in it's usual place, given that there is now an intercooler pipe that comes across onto the front of the air intake area. I need to source a TT stock airbox soon, as the outlet pipe on those is at a different angle and will fit in with the current pipework setup. Or, I need to spent the equivalent of a stock TT airbox on new hoses for the intercooler and air intake piping in order to fit the NA airbox. Anyway it will be sorted out in due course after all the paintwork etc. To summarize, not really. No different to removing/installing a 2JZGE/GTE. Everything bolts into place where it should. The only major difference is that you need to adapt some of the plugs/pins from the 1JZGTE engine loom to fit the MKIV Supra interior loom.

AO2A is an open diff. Try to find an AO2B, that will be an LSD

All the factory LSD's are torsen diffs. If you want something more aggressive then you will need to upgrade to a clutch type made by TRD, cusco, kaaz, os giken etc