Mike2JZ

I could care less about any buyers you encounter whilst trying to flog car parts. Merely pointing out you should make another cringe video

Shock and horror as buyer has to deal with barterers. Why don't you make another video explaining how you feel parry?

New seals can be had from toyota fyi

On the whole, aero's are worth more in the UK market compared to a hardstop, purely as there are less of them. Especially if it's a TT (even more so if it's a factory TT and not a aerotop TT swap) Cheers dude.

Usually yes, but if you care to elaborate exactly what specs the aerotop is along with prices etc, then I'm sure we can confirm your suspisions in a little more detail.

Rarer than a hardtop...

Needs to be 14v+, probably your alternator is gone.

Get a multimeter on the battery whilst car is off and running. Report back here

lol

Think I had the same problem with mine back when I first bought it. Used a quick release battery connector instead

ok bye

The drilling part is very easy I wouldn't worry, just make sure you have no swarf that falls into your bottom end.

I'd rather spend 5-10 minutes drilling a sump and tapping the threads, rather then dropping my upper sump which is easiest to do when engine is out the car. Then removing old FIPG, installing new FIPG, torquing bolts to spec blah blah blah Doesn't really matter either way though.

BTW thats not a 4'' exhaust system, just the muffler is, the rest of the pipe is 3' which will be your constraint'. Diameter of the muffler makes no real difference. I used to have the same one, tried it a few different exhaust setups. Dosen't make a huge difference really. Only noticable difference was some low end grunt loss when I went full decat. In the end I went back to a catted system.

You can use a TT upper sump no problem. Fits both ways, arguable more effort to do it this way rather than just drilling your current but whatever floats your boat.

I've started an Na supra auto using a manual ecu. Manual ecu can't do gearshifts though, otherwise it ran the engine no problem. So if you have a manual trans then it shouldn't be a problem

Just to throw more fuel on the fire

I don't mean any offense by this, but if you have to ask that question then it's maybe best having one of the known engine builders do it for you. All it takes is one error in assembly and the life of that engine could go down the toilet. Considering getting a fully forged bottom end is not a cheap exercise, you need to ask yourself if you are willing to learn how to re-assemble a bottom end properly, and can you trust yourself not to make a mistake? Will you be able to spot a mistake if you are not aware of it being a mistake? I see you said that you wanted 600-700hp. Coming from an NA with a small nitro shot thats going to be a huge leap, and you will need to upgrade the rest of the car to handle this (gearbox, diffs, brakes, clutch, tyres etc). If I were you, I'd just get another GE engine whilst they are still cheap. NA-T that and get the max out of it that you can, especially if you have a Link ECU at your disposal. Then you can mess around with the spare block on the side and learn whats what with it

First challenge of swapping the TPS is removing the two screws that hold it in place. If you can do this successfully without rounding them then you are off to a good start. I hate those screws with a passion. On an NA you will need to remove the front top engine cover in order to get to the second screw of the tps. The way you should install the TPS correctly is with feeler gauges and a multimeter in order to tune the location of the TPS to match the throttle plate "perfectly". If you don't have the patience or tools to do this, then install the TPS, aligning the inside grooves with the two metal ends on the throttle body. Once it's on, put the screws in lightly and twist the TPS counter clickwise as far as it will go, then tighten the screws. Your TPS won't be 100% where it needs to be but it will be very close, but without the correct tools it's impossible to dial it in as every TPS and TB is slightly different.

I've had the 2/1 pot calipers on mine since day 1. I've tried a host of different pads & fluids. For daily driving they really aren't a problem, the occasional hard braking here or there. The problems comes once you start driving like an asshole and use the brakes hard. They may stop once or twice nicely from 100+ leptons, or they may give a few minutes of confidence inspiring braking but once you start generating sustained heat and you start smelling the pads, I can guarantee you that the pedal will start to feel softer and will require a lot more effort to use then it was a few minutes ago. It sucks All the heat that these smaller brakes can't dissipate means you need to be spending more time maintaining the brake system afterwards as well. Checking sliding systems work, lubing them, rebleeding the system, checking wear on pads etc etc. And at the time this was with an NA. I bet with more power the threshold for the heat being generated on a tough drive would be even less. I've thought about sticking with the 2/1's on mine, but upgrading to DBA discs, braided lines, different sets of pads, the full works in order to counter the heat as best as possible. But when you put all that into £££, you're not really that far off just getting the 4/2's which have a higher braking potential with the same set of mods.

Normally diff thumping noise can be heard with the loading/unloading of the driveline. Harsh gear changes, sharp throttle etc, driving away from a stop etc... If you don't experience this, then don't bother touching the diff bushes. Thumps heard whilst going over bumps is more likely related to suspension components

They did come undercoated from the factory. Not all areas of the chassis are covered, there is a diagram of it somewhere I'll try to find it.

Cool story. ABS systems are the same across NA/TT's, so upgrading from oem 2/1pot brakes to the 4/2pot oem brakes won't cause any ill effects. Most people buying big brake kits for the street do it for the bling, or with the aim to stop brake fade.