Mike2JZ

Though it's not the most popular option for kit these days, for those collectors of genuine parts then this is a rare opportunity. Only a small handful of these bumpers in the UK from what I've seen. Rear bumper as I got it Rear bumper with bottom bit painted black and fog light removed Half decent picture of the skirts Both skirts and rear bumper will require TLC, mainly some fiberglass fixes and paint from where the supra was too lowered. Can provide photos of genuine veilside stamps / more pics for anyone who's interest. Just uploading the pics that I've got on my PC for the moment. Collection is advisable, but delivery could be arranged

It shouldn't bother most people. Maybe if you are buying a 10k km from Japan mint example for stupid money. These days though most Supra's have been crashed, DIY'd, rebuilt, modified etc etc so many times that mileage honestly isn't an indicator of condition. (If you can even trust that the mileage on the ODO is legit). Mine has done 160k km, and the underside is quite clean. Wheras a friend of mine has a 70k km Supra that is completely rotten underneath, you can put your fist through the chassis. You wouldn't be able to guess it from just looking at them from the outside, without being on a ramp. Unless you have a seriously low mileage factory original example these days, I wouldn't worry about it and just get on with enjoying doing what you want with the car.

I just bought some arches off him the other day, they came next day and wrapped well. Certainly a great seller to deal with

Piggyback's are old school. We are in 2017 for god sake. Why anyone would want an emanage over an entry level modern standalone really surprises me. If your built engine means anything to you, then get a standalone. Engine protection strategies were developed for a reason.

No JDM non turbo supra's came with a VVTI version of the 2JZGE. 6 speed box on the other hand are rare but possible to found on a non turbo

Don't go piggyback, you will need a standalone. Aem v2, Aem Infinity, Link Storm, Link Fury, Syvecs, Haltech P2000, Megasquirt 3...just some of the name of commonly found ECU's for Supra's. Most importantly though, find a tuner who is specialized in one of the above first and speak with them ahead of time; so when you get the ECU installed there will be someone who knows how to map it.

Fronts have been 'upgraded' to hard poly bushes. Not running stock rubbers. I'd rather break something and learn first hand.

Plans have changed slightly recently. Looks like I might be made redundant from my current workplace which means I have to fast forward getting the car back on the road asap and forego painting the car for the moment. Bit of an annoyance, but thats life, will just have to be patient till paint can be done. Mechanically the car seems to be driving fine around the 'private' roads at my unit just fine. During the day I'm averaging 8-10psi on boost, but at night when it's been so cold I'm going to 14psi and hitting fuel cut. So might need a FCD soon. Had a small leak from last radiator, so sourced a new one with a new thermostat from TCB parts. Overnight parts from Plymouth Couldn't find any "bling" radiators that also had ports for the auto cooler without spending some serious money, so the OEM replacement will do fine for my needs. Next up was the IACV which I suspect has any issue, as the 1J warm idle can go as low as 600rpm sometimes, and other times it's fine. Unplugging the IACV should cause some sort of reaction from the ECU, but currently there is no change if the engine is cold or warm. Had a spare that I cleaned/installed and cross checked and still no change. So next up is to diagnose the electronics. Following some of the forum feedback regarding Grams Styling, I went in person to go visit their workshop in Dartford and can say the panels and skirts I got from them were of good quality. No complaints from me there so far. Side skirt fitment looks good. Just being held in by the door Waiting to pickup a stock rear bumper next week and then I can install these rear arches. Been tossing and turning between riveting the kit on, or using rivnuts so panels are easily removable. Decided on rivnuts in the end. Should be a fun game drilling into the rear arch and getting everything equal on both sides. Need to grab some photo's, but the sills have all been finished now. So nothing else to do on the underside of the car for the moment. My rear diff bush is on it's way out, and got a pair of solid PHR diff mounts for a great price. I'm a bit worried about NVH, especially as reviews online seem to be a bit mixed about how harsh they are. For the money I paid, I'll be happy to give them a go and report back. They are just push in's, so can always put in some oem ones if they turn out to be terrible. Hopefully get's rid of the thumping sound from the diff when shifting gears like a monkey. MOT is booked in for Saturday 28th, so once I've got the stock rear bumper it will be go time to get the car ready for the road again.

Checked injectors on mine and all running smoothly.

The only way you will find out if you need a replacement arms is by getting the bolts out (cut them if need be). Out of all the arms that I took off mine, out of all the siezed bolts I removed, only one had managed to sieze itself to the inside of the arm's bush. So I had to really destroy that bush to remove it from the subframe. Could be lucky, or not.

I have the same thing with 1J and I went on a wild chase trying to figure it out. Noise is only experienced on idle, goes away with throttle. Fine when cold, but starts to appear when at operating temperature. Doesn't always occur, sometimes it runs fine! No negative effect on performance that I've been able to see. Symptoms are not reminiscent of what is found with a spun bearing or proper bottom end damage. IE: Sound is not tied to RPM. To date I've done the following: - Tested oil pressure -> Absolutely bang on as specified via the repair manual. No oil pressure loss as would be expected from bottom end bearings. - Switched oils -> Went from 5w30 to 5w50 to see if thicker oil would make it quieter. No difference - Checked over every bolt on the engine, made sure all was torqued to spec and nothing loose. - Double checked the valve clearances (all within spec). Although it was noted on my cam lobes there were a few wear marks. - Compression test showed that everything was healthy. - Removed Aux belt and sound still persisted, so not the auxiliaries or tensioner making the sound. - Went over every part of the engine with a stethoscope. Listening to the head and the block I could only hear the noise very faintly behind the engine noise. Strangely though, on the metal timing cover that sits behind the cam pulleys, the sound was loud and clear. My best explanation for that is that the sound resonated from it's source to that metal plate and is most vibrant there as the metal sheet is thin. Holding the metal cover with my hands dulled some of the noise, but I doubt that it would be solving the issue, just covering it up. - I then made a knock sensor headphone system that fed into an audio software on my laptop. After examining the sound waves, I could not find the noise appearing on the knock sensors, the valvetrain and pistons sounded ok. I probably did a couple of other tests but can't remember them now. Either way, I started to lose hope in diagnosing this issue. Internally, it seemed likely that it could only be a loose piston wrist pin or worn camshaft creating these noises. I was super close to completely taking apart the engine and investigating this At the same time as doing the above, I was looking up old youtube video's and threads about this issue and contacting people asking them if they ever solved the issue. I actually got a few responses, some saying they never solved it but have driven 30k+ miles on the engine and it's still going strong. One claimed that installing a new cambelt & tensioner setup got rid of the sound and another said a new set of camshafts fixed it for him. So far I can confirm that the sound is nothing catastrophic, performance does not seem affected in my case. My rough plan is to give my current 1J a rough 6 months for the summer season, if it survives, when it starts getting cold I will take it apart for a rebuild and hopefully I will find the source of this issue for once and report my findings somewhere. I'll also try the cambelt/tensioner change suggestion in the meantime. Also there are some people that have said that a slightly worn crank pulley or crank timing gear which has movement on the key they locate on can also creates this issue.

Crap as in the ECU won't have a reference for the air coming into the engine so it will barely stay alive/low idle/misfire/stall etc.

Connect it to the MAP sensor. Little black thing with the plug and multicolour wire in your first photo. On the bottom will be a vacuum port. Without it plugged in car will run like crap.

I've got an NA stock airbox with HKS filter for £40. Better cooling performance then most of the aftermarket cone filters

Are these the weld in or push in versions?

rekt

This has all the info you need http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1995/supra/jza80-almsf/4_291130_008_/tool-engine-fuel/1708_vacuum-piping/2

Only just seen this now, but yes very nice list.

Better hope another intercooler pipe dosen't pop off then. Wouldn't want to get recovered half way across Europe again (love you really)

It's a chinese manifold... You might get lucky and it won't crack or you might have issues with cracking or pieces of slag finding their way to your turbo. If you buy it, then do yourself a favor and reinforce it and clean up the insides with a grinder if it's not already been smoothed Edit: If they are so confident about their work being of perfect quality then I am surprised to see they offer no warranty and no returns lol. Seems a bit too far fetched.

I would bin that roll/harness bar completely and get a welder to put the following cross sections into your roll cage. That's about as good as it's going to get unless you go really hardcore with the cage. It's also advisable not to use recline able seats with a proper harness setup for fears of them collapsing in a serious crash, and the lack of a submarining harness slot. Really you should be going for proper buckets. Alternatively you can use clubman style harnesses which are designed to work with the stock seat belt positions and C pillar mount points.

I enjoy the aesthetics as well, but can appreciate a spectrum of Supra's in all shapes/sizes, so long as it's been done with some quality. Got to love debating over subjectivity.

No it's a Prius.

If thats the BS you tell yourself to sleep better at night then sure