Mike2JZ

Either way it's quite a big job. Far easier to do with the head off the engine, but then you need to factory in the cost of new headgasket and head bolts. Cheaper to do it using string/compressed air. Price wise, you are looking at either £150 for new oem seals, or about £30-50 if you go with Supertech or Ferrea aftermarket seals. Then for labour, you will probably be looking at a minimum of £500. I've done it for cheaper for mates rates, but most garages will be £500 or more if I had to make an educated guess.

Won't be a problem, crack on.

Sounds like diff bushes. Easiest way to check is to get it on a ramp, get someone to go through the gears and go on to do throttle whilst you stand underneath and see what's going on.

Normally if your crank sensor is causing issues then you shouldn't be getting spark at the coils. But definitely worth checking anyway Couple of sensors you can try checking, which could lead to the symptoms you explained. - MAP Sensor (Check plug is getting voltage and the vac line from intake is not split) - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (Check plug hasn't come loose, and check resistances of the sensor. If the sensor fails then the ECU could be overfueling due to thinking its a lot colder outside than it is) - Intake air temperature sensor (Check plug has not come loose). - Check the grounds under your intake, make sure none are loose. When it's running does it sound like the timing is out, or is it just misfiring?

I've cleaned and spray painted mine before, but easier to do off the car. Might look messy done with a paintbrush?

subframes are identical

I've seen one catch on fire from being near a heat wrapped single turbo down pipe. Removed mine ages ago with no draw backs

Whilst trying to find some piston rings to go into a 2JZGE stock bottom end (86mm) I found that some ring suppliers sell either GE or GTE piston rings, whilst others are selling rings that can apparently fit either. Looking at the Toyota EPC, the piston rings have different part numbers: GE (13011-46040) GTE (13011-46050) It seems that both the GE & GTE piston rings share the same thickness dimensions of 1.5 X 1.5 X 4mm Looking at the US Repair Manuals, you can see the following: The US manual shows that there is a distinction on the ring end gap. The GE ring gap being a slightly 'looser' fit The original Japanese repair manual for JZ engines shows the following: Here the ring end gap is shared between both GE and GTE engines. I don't have a set of GE and GTE rings to hand to test what gap they come with straight out of the box. So a few questions: a) Has anyone got any experience buying and installing rings advertised as fitting either engine into a GE bottom end. b) If we take the US specifications as truth, then presumably you could run GTE rings on a GE bottom end. And even if the ring end gaps are slightly tighter out of the box, it would still fall within the acceptable 2JZGE end gap range specified in the manual, with some extra meat on the ring if a small grind was required. However using GE rings on a GTE may not work if the rings are indeed 'looser' . Has anyone done this before? Thanks

155 is all that I could get mine to with a GPS @ 6500 in fifth and a very long bit of road. It will get there but takes ages. Most NA clocks I've seen aren't super accurate either, especially with a kph to mph converter

Take a 22mm socket/spanner and turn the engine over until it's at TDC as marked on the crank pulley. Check that the cam pulleys are sitting at the correct position as marked on the timing cover. Just check that your timing is correct first. Are you getting any smoke from anywhere, or just noise?

On my old NA engine, I once had the throttle coolant pipe come loose and fill my spark plug wells with coolant. The moment the engine got hot the engine misfired like crazy. Potentially oil could create the same affect. Crank pulley coming loose should not cause a misfire. Typically it will cause all the auxillary systems like water pump/alternator etc to start acting dodgy. Start by replacing your cam cover seals, clean out your spark wells and clean your spark plugs at HT leads.

Also worth noting, that with a 1.5J it will run on a stock ECU, but a standalone ECU is the only way the you will get the most out of the setup. Everything else will always be a bit of a compromise.

On the 1JZ loom, you will have 4 grey plugs for the ECU (if using a soarer loom, I think chaser and mkiii 1JZ's have white ecu plugs). These can remain as are and plug straight into the ECU. There are also some additional plugs which plug into the interior loom of whatever vehicle the loom came from. These plugs need to be cut and the wires need to be re-wired into the Orange and grey plugs on mkiv supra interior loom. You can cut the orange and grey female plugs from the 2JZGE loom and attach the 1J wires to them. For pinouts on what wire does what, check out: Wilbro666 2JZGE Wilbro666 1JZGTE (Soarer) There are also a number of guides and thread out there about doing the above if you google around a bit

JDM Distro sometimes have all of the above in stock.

You could probably re-use the 2JZGE engine loom, but it will take some effort and re-wiring/pinning to get it to work with a 1JZ ECU or even a 2JZGTE ECU, as you will need to remove and add sensors to the loom. I wouldn't attempt this unless you are confident with your wiring abilities and fancy a challenge. It is far easier to run a 1JZ ECU & 1JZ engine loom, then adapt 10-20 wires to work with the JZA80 Supra interior plugs. You cannot use your 2JZGE ECU as it does not have the maps required to operate under boost. 1JZ ECU would be my recommendation due to the stock 1JZ twins functioning like a small single turbo, unlike the 2JZGTE ECU where it's fuel/ignition maps are setup for sequential twins, which won't be ideal if you are planning to go single (unless you have some sort of fuel controller to somewhat counteract this)

I met the owner of this the other day, came into the workshop inquiring about a manual conversion. Was a nice chap. Hoping I can get to see the car up close soon

Do the holes in the bonnet allow water to fall into the spark plug wells?

All day everyday

Here's my theory: When revving high the fan will be sucking air in. This sucking force could be pulling the shroud slightly towards the fan and causing contact. Failing that, it could be a mix of engine movement and using an Na fan? I was under the assumption that the TT fan is slightly different. Have you checked that the 12mm nuts holding the fan to the pump are tight? Might also be worth checking if the 10mm nuts holding the fan to the viscous are tight/not damaged

Get someone to follow you. Then go WOT and they can tell you if any smoke. Normally quite hard to see from side mirrors unless you are chucking out smoke. What condition is your oil in, is it black? Any smell?

Not a massive update, but the GE block has been fully stripped now. Got lucky with this bottom end, all the bearings looked really nice. Crank spun nice and free, oil was nice and golden. Off to a good start in that respect Only thing I couldn't get out tonight was the oil gallery ball bearings. Welded a large bolt to try and get them off, but the weld broke before the ball bearing came free. Might have to let the machine shop try to get that out for me unless anyone has any tips. The planned spec for the 1.5j so far is: - Stock GE block - TT pistons and new rings - Quick hone for the cylinder walls just to freshen them up - GTE oil pump - 1JZ head gasket Going with a mostly stock setup, as I'm not shooting for crazy power. But just freshen everything up as best I can.

Does the low oil pressure light stay on whilst this was happening?

Rough in what sense?

The single setup is in and working, but I still need quite a few parts to optimize the setup before I start cranking the boost up. I can hear the turbo spooling at around 2'500 and building boost just after 3'000. But using the stock 1JZ ECU, the ignition table is still setup for stock twins and the ignition is not aggressive enough downlow to take advantage of the turbo. So I'm still only getting full power after 4'000 even with dialing in the SAFC to be adjust the fueling to give between 11.5-12.0 AFR on full boost. It's still good fun, but all this piggyback crap is annoying me so looking at getting a link standalone very soon. Overall, even with this unotimized setup, I much prefer the single over the twins. Can't complain when the waste gate starts screaming. Drove around with the single setup for about a week having a blast. Then after a prolonged spirited drive down the motorway I started smelling oil, pulled over and heard some knocking and watching loads of smoke come out the PCV outlet on the rocker cover. Oh dear. Not to sure on the exact reason still. Compression on the engine wasn't amazing to begin with ever since I bought the engine, and AFR's and knock detection were spot on until it went bang all of a sudden. Perhaps leaning on the engine for so long just killed off what was left of the rings from the heat. So had to leave the Supra where it was until I could get my recovery friend to pick it up two days later. Spent the day in bed after the engine went feeling sorry for myself. Come Sunday morning I was up at the crack of dawn, got the Supra recovered and got that engine out and stripped as fast as possible. I went over all the bottom end bearings, checking for damage and checking oil clearances. Miraculously every bearing and crank journal still looked mint, so whatever had happened hadn't circulated any particles that did big damage. Then I removed the head and started checking out the pistons. I can't remember what pistons had gone, but about half of them shared this sort of damage. Pistons had been rubbing on the cylinder wall, siezing in the 1st/2nd oil ring to the point that it was just letting gases and oil through. The tune I was running was quite safe, so I'm not sure if this was caused from running lean or not. AFR's never indicated this as being a problem at least. No sign of pre det on the pistons either. Piston that was still in ok nick. See how the top ring hasnt been siezed into place, and is still able to move around and form a seal. Taking apart the engine showed that the bottom end bearings and rings had already been replaced by a previous owner. So begs more questions as to what the history of this engine was. Either way, the block and pistons were toast. Luckily for me though. I had a friend with a 1JZ that had a spun bearing that donated me the engine to get me on the road again until I build another engine to put back in mine. With the help of a friend we transferred my crank and bearings into the new block that night and had the car running again by 4am. I drove it into work the next morning to the shock of most people. Have put a couple of hundred miles on the 'new' 1JZ already and so far so good. Meanwhile, in my spare time in the evenings I have started building the next engine out of an old GE block. 1.5J time. The 2JZ block I've got is in good nick, but has been sitting outside for a while and has had some water enter the oil return holes through the head due to loosly placed rocker covers. So everything is being stripped out, before getting it cleaned internally and put back together with some new rings/gaskets etc. More on that soon!

After that I went back to using the supra as a daily and the 1J was running smooth. The wastegates on the twins were a little worn, or just couldn't keep up with a larger exhaust than stock and I was boosting at 10psi before creeping to 14 on pulls. Sometimes hitting fuel cut if it was cold outside. Not that I really minded the extra boost. Then one night I decided to do an indoor rolling burnout to christen the new unit me and some friends had moved into. Shortly after I noted a strange noise from the rear end. I'm sure this will make Chris Wilson happy, but the solid diff mount completely ripped the diff casing mount off So I learnt the hardway and can now confirm that you should not run solid mounts without running solids all the way around the diff Managed to source another diff cover from a kind forum member and stuck a polybush mount in instead and no more broken diff covers Didn't really have anything too interesting happen to the car after that. Was just saving for 1JZ BPU parts. Bought an Apexi SAFC, Innovcate Wideband, Apexi AVC-R. And was totally set on maxing out the twins as far as I could before thinking about upgrading anything else. Then whilst browsing through some adverts, I found someone selling a GT35 single turbo kit for a 1JZ, and before I knew what happened I was on the way to pick it up. Got back to the garage, took a final picture of the twins and got them off as fast as I could. Aside from some exhaust manifold studs snapping and requiring some welding to get them out, the single install went quite smoothly. Current setup is: - eBay special GT35 .70/.68 turbo - Japspeed 3mm steel braced manifold + wrap - Japspeed 3'' downpipe - eBay special 44mm wastegate with scream routed behind driverside wheel