Mike2JZ

I think I have one spare if you can't find any

Had a similar issue on a friends supra. Auto NA with all sorts of idling/running and changing gears. Discovered there was an issue with ECU when I went to put the ecu in diagnostic mode and the engine warning light flashed randomly before dying completely.

Sounds to me like you have got an ABS sensor not plugged in or one of them is damaged. Code 11 is Open Circuit in solenoid relay circuit Code 51 is pump motor locked or open circuit Code 13 is Open circuit in pump motor relay circuit Code 34 is Rear left wheel speed sensor signal malfunction If the ABS/TRAC ecu gets no input from one of the speed sensors located on each of your hubs then it will throw an error and the TRAC system will be disabled, thus the TRAC OFF warning light. Your ABS system may also be hindered by the lack of 1 speed sensor input.

Looking for the following if anyone has: Pretty much the AC rad, AC fan and all the lines leading back to the firewall

Some of the major points Twins - Looks and sounds badass - Most kits available are old school and laggy and hard to source - Less aftermarket support (manifolds etc) - More parts to go wrong / upkeep - Generates more heat / even harder to manage heat soak - Most twin setups are running compound (working together), rather than sequentially. Power delivery may feel similar to a big single if running compound setup. - More expensive - Issues with space and fitting everything in Single - Modern billet ball bearing turbo's are becoming so efficient and powerful that shooting for a responsive but powerful setup can be done adequately with a single. - More part support and overall less expensive to setup - Easier to install When comparing an older twin setup with a modern single, I'd struggle to see why twins would be the go to choice other than just choosing something different/look badass. That said, if you got some money to burn and fancy doing something really different. Creating a compound twin system using modern turbo's would be a very interesting project, or if you really want to go hardcore try to get a sequential system setup. I can't think of anyone in the UK who has done this, maybe someone in the USA has been crazy enough to try.

got my first taste of a single turbo in this supra when rob owned it years ago, sad to see it's going to be broken. Not that I have the money to buy it, but maybe someone out there would? What sort of money would you be looking for the whole car?

Unless OP has had a fresh engine rebuild recently, chances are he is running on a 20 year+ bottom end and now wants to run a lot of boost through a big turbo in his upcoming tuning session. There will be an amount of blowby produced by the engine after being in service for that many years and now being asked to make triple the power. Do you really want these fumes to be recirculated into the intake system and contaminating your intake air? Considering he is running on irish 95 octane, I would be taking every step possible to help the engine from knocking, like keeping your air supply as pure as possible. Every little helps in that sort of situation. Remember that routing the PCV gases back to the engine to be re burned is an exercise of reducing emissions, not optimizing power. Oil fumes are still circulated back into the system with a catch can routed back to the intake. The catch can only catches some of it, it does not eliminate it. Keeping the intake clean is a nice side effect imo. If in fact you do have a perfectly healthy engine after all these years with low levels of blowby then I wouldn't worry about it.

Speak with your tuner, see if he has any recommendations. There are good arguments to say that you should have your catch can system attached to a vacuum source to help the flow of gases, whilst there are also good arguments to say that you don't want to PCV gases rerouted to your intake system in order to try and keep the flow of air to your cylinders as clean as possible.

Nice Celica bro

Go to Nissan and ask them how much a valve stem job on is on a GTR then talk to me about theft lol

Won't be around for this meet, but down for fixing watt's supra bbq in the future

Shock and horror as main dealer prices are high

Loving that they replaced the spring mechanism on it with a dodgy looking screw haha. Bought mine for £40 brand new from Mr T. Why anyone would pay £100 for that?

You can buy them new from toyota for around £20 Part number : 53395-14010

Collection would be from Canterbury, Kent. I'm out the country until June 2nd. I've got pictures of the clutch kit to hand, but not the flywheel. Send me a private message and ill send you the photos

I've got a used one, but it will probably need a skim as it has had some heat spots from previous owner

I have one that used. Exedy Stage 1 Friction Plate, Toyota Pressure Plate & Release Bearing £80

Speakers don't have a "For Paul" sticker on them. -50 scene points

Is this a bog standard engine, or has the bottom end been modified? What engine oil are you using? Are you using any oil coolers etc? Cold start will always produce high pressure readings. 8-9 bar does seem quite high for a standard engine? For a standard engine, once the oil is at operating temperature, hold the revs at 4000 rpm and your oil pressure should be around 47-84 psi (roughly 3-6 bar)[According to repair manual]. If you are going a lot higher than that on WOT (9 bar) etc, then it could be an indication of poor flow through your lubrication system. High oil pressure isn't necessarily always a good thing. As a comparison, both my 2JZGE and 1JZGTE cold start pressure was around 5-6 Bar, Warm idle around 2 Bar and WOT around 5-6 BAR. I know that the 2JZGTE oil pump spring is tougher than both the 2JZGE and 1JZGTE, so oil pressure should be a little higher, but 3 BAR higher seem a little on the high end for me.

Can't help with the car or buyer, but does anyone know what that front bumper is?

Some more recent happenings. Single was running ok. Started upping the boost more and more to about 1.3 bar, then one day I noticed my boost was still climbing, but not holding at my peak target. Also couldn't hear the turbo chatter like normal off boost. Got the smoke leak test machine on the inlet side and immediately found a big leak right by the turbo inlet. How it still boosted with this massive gash I have no idea New sillicone joiner and the boost was back to normal. Going to replace this section of sillicone with a metal 90 joiner to eliminate this problem in future. I'm guessing the heat from sitting right next to the manifold had something to do with it splitting. Next up was to begin cleaning and refreshing the bottom end components for the 1.5JZ build. Took me about 15 hours of pure elbow grease, but got the pistons from this: to this: Was super hard to get the piston ringlands clean, but got there in the end through sheer stubbornness with some delicate tools. Think I'll buy new pistons new time, just so I don't have to do that process again Next the 2JZGTE oil pump I've got was fully stripped, tolerances checked and oil relief port ported out to 5mm. Block was sent away in this time to get honed, decked and oil ways cleaned. Upon return, I used a set of king racing bearings for the main and rod bearings Head was also sent away to get skimmed before coming back to get re-assembled. Chose to use a 2mm Tomei 1JZ Headgasket, as I'm running GE pistons. It's quite a large headgasket to use, so will be a bit of an experiment to see if I get any issues with the headgasket blowing. In terms of compression, I will be running around 8.7:1 with this setup. Hopefully it works, if not I'll drop the bottom end and run some GTE pistons and normal GTE headgasket. Running some ARP head studs, hopefully got enough strength behind them to keep the headgasket sealed. Block painted, new core plugs all around, head attached Next up will be the final bits of the engine assembly, followed by a quick engine break in using the stock 1JZ ECU before ripping out all the current electronics and wiring in my Link standalone

In before DavidP rages over 30 profile tyre recommendations

The aim of the oil pump porting is to improve flow and get rid of some of the areas where excessive oil pressure could be bottle necked. I'm not of the opinion that the oil pumps have bad flow from the factory, but porting the oil feed holes and getting rid of any casting imperfections may help slightly? One thing I usually modify on the pumps is the oil relief hole located behind the front main seal, which directs excess oil back to the sump. From the factory the relief hole is quite small, and it takes 5 minutes to make this hole bigger using a drill. If you wanted to replicate what Titan are doing to their pumps, then I would suggest getting a set of carbide burs that will allow you to remove any imperfections and port the holes slightly. If you really wanted to go OTT, then get some polishing burs so you can go over every area that you modified to ensure they are smooth. Why do you feel like you need to modify the oil pump out of curiosity?

Looks nice and simple

Rent a compressor and buy a leak down test kit?