Mike2JZ

Going balls deep on this build, love it

You living in ireland now, or taking her back to swiss?

Had another supra in the workshop today with cold start mirefire issue. ECU had a cold solder, new ECU and she purred away again. Had a 1JZ the other week that wouldn't rev over 3k, blew a diode on the ECU Most ECU failures I've seen have been right after that car has been sat outside for a long time and not been used. Dave if it helps, I think I've got an NA manual ECU I can send you.

Tomei cam pulleys arrived finally. Build quality seems good and the pulleys are much lighter than the stock pulleys. Making sure adjustment of pulley matched TDC on pistons Also changed my stock SMIC setup to a chris wilson SMIC. Not brand new, but definitely in better nick than my last setup. Engine and drivetrain back in Quick bare essential start up to check oil pressure and get some heat in the engine for a compression check I removed one of the oil relief springs from the 2JZGTE oil pump as I'm running a GE block, which has less oil galleries. Bit of an experiment to see what happens really, if needed I will drop the second spring back in. But on first/cold start the oil pressure is reading at 5 bar or just under which is more or less where it needs to be. Will have to monitor pressure once engine has been fully warmed up and under different load conditions, but off to a good start so far. First compression check after the first start showed 195-200 psi across all cylinders. Again not a bad result given the engine is slightly higher compression than a factory 2JZGTE. Will have to continuously monitor compression readings to make sure the rings are bedded in properly, but happy with the first test. The only major issue I have at the moment is the injectors. I switched back to using the 1JZ 380cc injectors from the 440's I was using previously and on idle my AFR's are reading between 16.5-17 which is a tad lean for my liking. 1JZ stock ecu is obviously optimized for a 2.5 litre displacement, so the added displacement from the 2J bottom end could be drawing more air than expected. I will be sticking in the larger 440's back in when I get a chance to see if the AFR's can regulate themselves near 14.7 on idle. If that makes no change then I will be forced to fast forward my standalone plans and wire one in asap in order to gain control over the engine again. I just wanted to use the 1JZ ecu to run the engine in without having to faff with setting up a tune on a standalone, but I also don't want to run any leaner than I need to in the early stages of the engines break in.

I drilled a hole in the bottom of my fuel tank. Works a treat

I'm assuming syvecs uses a bosch type wideband knock sensor. In which case you can mount it to the block in the stock locations, but you will need the following stud

The only real way to awnser this is to install an oil temp sensor and monitor the logs with the system as is versus your proposed changes. For a high horse power build I would say that you need as much oil cooling as you can give it.

Got a head that has been skimmed. All the valve train has been removed. £400 for head or £500 with valvetrain (minus cams)

The closest you will get to the real deal is to get the following: 2JZGTE Crank Sprocket & Crank Sensor 2JZ GTE Oil Pump (The GE spring does not fit into a GTE pump from my own testing. GTE oil pump uses two springs. I'm currently about to test the pressure differences between running both and removing one whilst in use on a GE block, so can confirm correct way to proceed regarding this in my build thread soon, as people have said that GTE oil pump will push too high oil pressure on GE block due to differences in oil galleries/squirters. 2JZGTE Cooalnt Pump, Upper Coolant Neck & Coolant Bypass tube. 2JZGTE Coolant hard lines 2JZGTE Oil Filter Housing/Oil Cooler 2JZGTE Inlet side coolant outlet from block 2JZGTE Pistons & OEM Headgasket Other than that you will need a long oil feed line to go from the inlet side of the engine where the oil ports are, around to your single. You may need to think of a more creative oil feed option if you plan on running twins I've just been working on a supra that has been converted using the above, and it made over 600hp with a 6262 without any issues of knocking. So long as the building process is done correctly and the tune is done using a standalone by a good tuner then I don't see why there is any issue with this route.

If finding a HKS mapper fails, you could get the Link Kurofune which plugs straight into the HKS loom. Plenty of link mappers out there

Wiring speciality do the ecu plugs. Had to get a few from them when I transplanted a 1jz vvti from a chaser into a mkiv supra and was missing the interior loom ecu wiring

ah can't help there then. passengerside was wrapped round a pole

Acid dip is the correct way. When I refurbed my rear subframe I spent an annoying amount of time with a grinder getting it as clean as possible, but there are still nooks and crannies that are impossible to get to with a tool or even a sand blaster. My thoughts were to do a dip of some sort when I go to refurbish sometime again in the future, and for the money acid dip seems like a good option. Interested to see how it comes out.

Having done the whole NA5 to turbo route, I would second that.

Hi, You mean driverside door correct? If so I've got one in red, located in Canterbury. Shoot me a message if interested

Green/Black (+) goes to red/black Green/Red (-) goes to red/blue

Generally speaking when going NA-T the downpipes used from the turbo will not accomodate the stock O2 narrowband sensors, unless you go through all the effort of welding in a flange that you can mount the sensors to. But even that is redundant as 95% single turbo's will ditch the O2 narrowbands and stock GE ECU, as most aftermarket ECU's will interface with an aftermarket wideband O2 sensor to control AFR targets and fuel trims.

I tried all that back in the day. Honestly cleaning mine didn't do shit, had to buy new ones.

I used to get ~350 from a tank on my NA. Try changing your O2 sensors

In the boot remove the plastics near the rear strut tops and you will find the ABS sensor wires/connectors. Disconnect the plugs and push the wire through the rubber grommet in the chassis. Then you can go underneath and drop the subframe/hubs/etc

Use a 10mm bolt to hold it into the chassis. Then you can bolt the other end of that wire somewhere on the engine block. So your wire once hooked up correct will go Battery -> Chassis -> Engine Block

Does your supra have ABS ?

Pulled the engine out to get engine bay ready for new 1.5JZ to drop in. Wanted to refresh the engine bay paint with Super White 040, like my chassis left the factory with as mine was looking quite tired. Stripped and sanded Anti Rust / Etch Primer Filler Primer Final primer layer + sand/smooth New paint on 1.5JZ pretty much ready to go. Just have some tomei cam gears to go on, but more detail in next post

Is this for an NA or TT?

They are 2/1