Mike2JZ

Using a competition clutch stage 3 from Keron, has been slip free so far. Most ive pushed on my last setup was in the region of 400hp with 1.2bar

I've got a single one

Do a compression check asap

What ECU are you running?

Have you got any warning lights on the dash? Have you checked for any stored error codes? Overfueling will be caused either by a mechanical issue like bad pump, bad fuel pressure regulator etc, or you have something electronically causing the issue like a bad ecu, bad map sensor, bad engine coolant temperature sensor etc. Does the issue happen when its cold or hot?

If the syvecs works anything like a Link ECU then it shouldn't be out of the question to wire in an activation switch/trigger where you would like on the dash as a digital input. Presuming of course that you have a spare input slot available.

If I'm not mistaken then that valve will allow air separate to intake air to be pushed into the inlet manifold, so when you steer on idle the revs do not drop too far and stall the engine. I think previously I had the valve not connected at all and didn't really notice a difference. If you have a standalone then you could get around this by getting the standalone to allow more air through IACV when it detects PS is being activated.

Cant comment on using vvti coils, but i can recomend using R8 coils. Been using them a lot on builds recently and have had no issues with them. I think the same would be true using LS coils

Got some 1JZ cam seals overnighted from Durham, Japan. Got the cam gears off from the engine and it was definitely one cam seal leaking nicely. Oh hello there leak Old seal was hard as nails, compared to the slightly rubbery feel of the new ones. Next the cams came out and the valve stem seal replacement began. ^ my favorite job with the head still on Blue seal is a 2JZ supertech exhaust seal vs the silver oem replacement for 1JZGTE that I sourced through (BGA Automotive - VK4394). The diameter that fits over the valve stem is different, supertech ones looked a tad loose (5.5mm) compared to the snug fit of the BGA ones (5mm). All other dimensions of the valve seal were almost identical otherwise. Internal pattern seems similar too, though the new seals gave a very nice double click once seated on the valve guide. I thought to myself at this point that this 0.5mm difference around the valve stem on the seals themselves was causing the issue. Intake valves looked ok as well. Put everything back on, fitted the new seals and gave the car an oil/filter change. No more cam seal leak but it still smooookes. Again, start up is clean, lo throttle driving is clean, lo vacuum is clean. on boost is clean, high rpm vacuum followed by a tap of the throttle and boom a big cloud of white/blue smoke. I noticed a very small amount of oil near the throttle body valve, and intake runners when having the cams out. Even though everything from turbo cold side to intercooler seems dry. Possibly there is oil in the used CW intercooler I put on? Surely would of passed through the system after 500 miles of driving by now? Seems highly unlikely, but is one theory. Anyway, so that leaves me with a turbo seal failing or my piston rings aren't working as intended, even though compression/leak down is good. I'm thinking I'll get a smaller turbo oil feed restrictor to make a quick/cheap test to rule out the turbo and go from there if problem persists. Other than that though, really happy with the car. Borrowed some wheels off a friend to see if they would look any good on the car. Offsets are off by miles, but I'm still ooo-ing and ahh-ing about if I should get a set of these for mine

Another idea could be to remove the passenger seat. I did this once and managed to fit an entire rear subframe assembly plus two front wings in the car with ease

Hoping my camshaft seals get delivered this morning so I can be there tonight

Basically I'm at the stage where I'm looking to get it onto a dyno to do the first optimized tune at wastegate pressure, but I've got two issues holding me back right now. Just today I noticed one/both? of the cam seals have been weeping slightly. Back when I built the engine I ordered 2JZ cam seals, forgetting the 1JZ cam seals are a different size. So I re-used my old one as I was too impatient to wait for new ones to be delivered. Well that bit me in the ass, but its just a cam seal so no big deal to change. The next issue is the one that is doing my nut in and I refuse to risk it on the dyno until I get it sorted. I noticed that if I boost through the gears changing quickly then every is all good. But if I boost up to 6k then come off the throttle and put the engine into high vaccuum under deceleration for a few seconds, then the next time I go on the throttle I get grey/blue oil smoke from the exhaust. There is no smoke at any other time otherwise, and I've made sure it's not a tune related issue from over fueling. For the last three days, I've done a dry & wet compression test followed by a leak down test each day. The results I'm getting are solid. 195-200 psi on both dry/wet compression, and leak down is showing between 9-14% on each cylinder, with no noise coming out of the intake/exhaust. From those results I'm pretty confident it's not a ring seal issue on the bottom end, and the valves seem to be in good shape as well, they were reseated before being installed as well.. Which leaves me looking at either a failing turbo seal or valve stem seal/valve guide. I've messed with the PCV breather system, checked the PCV valves operation and even removed it completely so both rockers vent to atmosphere and no difference, so I don't think it caused from crank case pressure. Next on the list was to check the turbo. There is no back and forth play, and a normal amount of side to side for a journal bearing turbo. The intake side pipes are as dry as when I installed them, and the downpipe/exhaust turbine shows no fresh oil marks, just some soot from where the oil has passed through the exhaust system. The oil feed has a small restrictor on it already, as supplied with the kit and I re-routed the oil drain to be 100% gravity based, as previously it was possible that there could have been a small built up of oil in the drain line. New drain routing made no difference, still smokes. So got some new cam seals and valve stem seal set incoming, and I will be smashing out both tomorrow to see if it makes any difference. Will check valve guides for any play whilst I'm at it and hoping its not that. Hopefully just a valve stem seal which was installed incorrectly, or maybe the supertech valve stem seals are just crap. Plenty of people on google seem to have leaking issues with new supertech seals. Anyway, other than that car runs great, so once that issue is sorted I can get it on the dyno and see what she's really got

Done about 500 miles on the setup so far, and this is how the engine bay is looking. Cosmetics Turbo compressor housing painted wrinkle black Intercooler couplings changed from blue to black. 4'' intake pipe made and painted wrinkle black Electronics All gauges aside from AFR removed from interior Oil pressure and Oil temperature sensors wired to the Link ECU Gearbox speed sensor connected to Link, which outputs to speedometer. Closed loop fuel control implemented IACV setup to react to different idle RPM targets using a 3D map controlling IACV opening % based on coolant temperatures. Also complemented with closed loop ignition idle control. Engine Protection Strategies Overboost protection (ign%cut) Lean condition protection (rev limit) Engine Coolant/Intake & Oil temperature too cold or too hot limits (rev limit) Oil pressure going under a certain threshold will limit RPM and if it drops really low it will turn off the engine. Knock detection Motorsport Launch control setup with handbrake switch, builds 5 psi off the line and makes all the right noises/flames Anti-lag cylic idle control (can't really see me ever using it, but couldn't resist setting it up does sound badass ) I've gotta say, at the moment I'm loving the wrinkle black paint. I've named it poor mans polish. When I first got my 1JZ at the end of last year, this was my first attempt at doing wrinkle black on rocker covers following the instructions on the tin. Looks pretty disgusting. But now I've cracked the secret to getting a much smoother oem-like finish So I just need to pull my finger out and strip & paint the old rocker cover like this one Other than that I'm pretty content with how the engine bay looks. Just need to wire in a few more sensors soon for fuel pressure/temperature, then I can pull the inlet manifold back off and do a final tidy up of wires for the ABS pump and getting the OEM firewall wire sheath back on Obligatory tunnel soundcheck video @ wastegate pressure [7psi]

The next step of the build was to get a safe tune on the car so I could start using it for my daily trip to work. From there I could continue to check the break in process, add in a few more sensors and tweak the setup with the aim of getting it ready for a proper dyno tune with some proper boost once I felt everything was solid. To begin I started off with a really uninspring and low/flat ignition map so the fuel could be mapped on low/medium/high throttle conditions. After a few trips up and down the motorway, the fuel side of things had been dialed in and has been mapped on the richer side to promote a safe tune. From there I got my knock detection equipment hooked up so I could configure the Link ECU knock detection/prevention system. The phormula knock analyser pro allows you to connect an independant knock sensor to the engine which can be listened to via a set of headphones inside the car. At first I had the sensor connected to the inlet manifold, and even though knock could be heard when we induced it at 2000 rpm low load, you could hear everything from the throttle plate opening to the influx of boost entering the manifold which made it harder to hear what we were interested in. The sensor was then moved to the block in between cylinders 4/5, which produced much clearer audio of the pistons doing their thing. From there, I tuned the individual cylinder knock gain levels, which allows the ECU to have an idea about how far each cylinder is from each of the stock knock sensors. Which allows it to control ignition/fuel trims on a per cylinder basis. Then it was back on the road, and using the link I could increase the ignition advance at 2000rpm for just cylinder 5. Any knock at this point was much more audible on the headphones and allowed for easier configuration of the knock detection system on the Link. Currently, any frequencies exceeding a certain threshold will trigger the knock system, and the engine will pull ignition timing back on the offending cylinder until the frequency is below the threshold. All of the above was pretty overkill considering I am running a really tame ignition map, but always makes me sleep better knowing the ECU can take care of shit on the off chance it occurs at this stage of the tuning process. After that was setup the ignition map was tuned a little so the powerband didn't feel to flat, but still no where near the optimum of what the engine can produce, but that will be revisited later when I've got a Dyno to play with. Already on my list of things to buy is some more modern bosch wideband knock sensors, which seem to give clearer signals to the ECU. The stock knock sensors seem to be quite noisy when checking their signal outputs on the ECU logs. Can't really say I'm surprised with a 20 year old design

So following on from last time... I stuck the 440 injectors back in, and the AFR's at idle were slightly better but still to lean. Without the stock narrowband still installed, I don't think the stock ECU could manage a closed loop fueling strategy. So instead of risking a lean condition I ripped out the stock ECU and loom and got ready to wire in a Link ECU. Would of loved a Link Thunder as it would let me run the traction control system through the stock ABS sensors, but my budget didn't stretch that far this time round, so opted for a Link Storm (Black Instead). Also got an A + B loom that could be wired in from scratch so I could get rid of my old 20 year old stock loom and hopefully make the engine loom more streamlined. First up was to make a rough map on paper of what sensors/inputs/outputs I would be wanting to run, before removing any non essential pins from the A & B looms and grouping the remaining wires by function to allow for a less messy install. Looks pretty messy, but this was the early stages of sorting out wiring routing. After that I just needed to cut the loom to size and start integrating/soldering on the 1JZ/2JZ connectors (injectors, MAP, ECT, IAT, Crank/Cam etc.) Whilst getting every above wired up, I also changed my ignition system. My old toyota coils weren't in great shape and I didn't fancy shelling out a small fortune for new ones. I switched to using VAG Ignition coils Been using these on a few high power 2J projects at work and so far have no ignition related failures. All 6 with the appropriate plugs and wiring for £200, costing about £20 to replace if one ever fails. Sorted. As these coils have an igniter module built into the coil itself, which meant I could also scrap the 2J igniter pack and run the ECU ignition signal straight to the coil. Only downside is that they sit a tiny bit higher than the 1JZ rocker cover, so I can't run the top cover without using washers. Terrible photo, but this was the loom after most of the the sensor and wires had be run where they needed to go. The loom was also fully integrated into the factory fusebox/relay setup, so all the relays and fuses controlling power to the ECU/Coils/Injectors/Sensors are protected in a similar fashion to how it left the factory. Why re-create the wheel if it works good To get the ball rolling, I'm still basically running the complete stock sensor setup (MAP/TPS/ECT/IAT/Knock/Low Oil/Crank/Cam etc) on the car as they can all be configured for use with the Link. So didn't have to spend a fortune on new sensors, though no doubt I will be upgrading the MAP sensor and knock sensors in future if this gets round to making some serious power in the future. Once everything was wired up, spent some time configuring the ECU for the first start and it fired first time. After that I gave it a quick fuel and ignition map to run the engine around 2500 rpm for 30 minutes to put the rings through their paces and get the oil flowing round the engine, whilst checking for leaks and monitoring oil pressure and system temperatures. All temperatures were holding steady, oil pressure was reading nicely within spec, no leaks. Feeling pretty good at this point. Did a compression check after and all cylinders reading between 195-200 psi still. Dropped the oil out after and after checking for any contamintions/metal etc, everything looked good. So new oil and filter and time to get ready to get a safe road map on it.

From the thread it read that the engine was detonating, so maybe tune related.

If you have the latest EMU Black, then stick with that. It is pretty nice in terms of features, quite competitive. But if it's one of the older ones then I wouldn't bother

If you have a TT loom, then get a Link plug and play G4+ SupraLink. That will run all the stock sensors, you just need to wire in a boost controller and off you go.

I've got a HKS hi power I'd be interested in swapping. You got any photos of yours?

You will need to shock it out, rather than just trying to pull it out. Get a hammer on the center section and give it some love before trying to pull

You can get the speedo working using a hall effect speed sensor mounted on the rear wheels/diff wired up as a digital input to your link ecu.

If it's a TT from an supra then probably about a grand labour. If it's from an aristo then you will be looking at more

No, pump has just been swapped from my last setup onto new engine. Was working perfectly before. Fluid is good, no air leaks, no bubbles etc. I've had this exact thing happen before when putting a standalone on another supra, but once the PPS circuit was reconnected the PS system kicked back in. Without that solenoid active, the stiffness locks itself into it's hardest setting.

After sticking my car back together recently I have no power steering. The pump is good, fluid is fresh, no leaks. I went standalone so had to run new wires for the PPS solenoid on the rack back to the interior passengerside orange plug (PPS+ & PPS-) which connects to the powersteering ECU. PS ECU is still reciving speed input from the odometer/speedo circuit and is still getting power from ECU IG fuse. PPS plug by the solenoid is getting voltage and ground. Figured I had a wiring issue which was causing the solenoid not to activate. Tried switch polarity on PPS wires and still nothing. Thought I'd bypass the PS ECU conpletely and give the solenoid direct 12v and still nothing. Anyone had any experience with PPS solenoids dying, or am I missing something?