Mike2JZ

Well if he has password then why can't he map the car?

Is the FCON ECU password protected and thats why your mapper can't make any changes, or does the ECU have a hardware fault on it?

Either ECU will handle the sequential turbo system. But you will need enough spare outputs on the ECU to control 3 VSV's, as well as a mapper who fancies implementing the logic to get the transition between 1st and 2nd turbo spot on, whilst managing boost levels in both lo and hi throttle scenarios. Unless you are good mates with the mapper or he is feeling generous, you will probably be charged quite a bit for him to figure it out. I have yet to see with my own eyes a convincing sequential turbo implementation on a standalone that works like the stock ECU , but some people around the world have claimed that they have cracked it. It's a case of trial and error, experimentation and reverse engineering which usually = £££ for most mappers to attempt.

That's the best quality I can get with my phone camera. The fins are old, it's used and has been used for years by several owners.

Price drop to £250

Sounds like a boost leak. Get a smoke tester on it

Remove the rubber inspection hole at the rear of the sump and check the torque on the torque converter bolts.

Get a stethoscope and go across different parts of engine/gearbox bellhousing until you can find the loudest point.

Hi, Wanting to sell my CW SMIC as planning to go FMIC. Location: Canterbury, Kent Condition: Used. Internally, everything is nice and clean. Externally, there are a few bent fins, and some slight corrosion from the elements, to be expected from being on the road for X amount of years. £250

Remove key from ignition. Get a multimeter reading from each fuse, and see which ones provide battery voltage. Those will be your permanent live circuits. You can test the same thing with key switched to ACC to see what circuits/fuses are getting power when key is @ acc

Just had another thought, but might be worth re-calibrating your wideband controller if possible. Sometimes O2 sensors can die and show weird results, might be worth borrowing a mates one and checking that off your list

Seems pretty unnecessary to switch to a hydraulic lifter, most hydro guys want to go solid. Most people just switch to solid buckets and call it a day. If I remember correct there is another Toyota engine that has solid buckets from factory which can be bought from toyota with a variety of available shims

Hopefully these diagrams help. Prefacelift Abs System Facelift

From the pin outs listed on Wilbro's site, what wires you need where should be self explanatory, but if you run into any headaches shoot me a message and I'll try to help. Have done this swap a number of times now, seems quite intimidating the first time round!

Also available on our very own forum, under service specs... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/content.php?51-Repair-Manuals

Hi welcome. On the soarer loom you have a few interior plugs which need to be cut and the appropriate wires need to be mated with their counterparts on the 2JZGE interior loom big orange and grey plug. The biggest resource to find out what each wire does is here: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/41678224/2JZ-GE%20JZA80%20Supra%20Engine%20Wiring http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/47216384/1JZ-GTE%20JZZ30%20Soarer%20Engine%20Wiring

If you are taking your crank pulley off then on the crank sprocket there is a marking that you can align with a marking on the oil pump, that will put the crank at TDC.

Well in fairness, it's more like walking into a japanese fridge from the 90's that was built with bespoke tools that some japanese dude probably hasn't looked at for the last 15 years, and the eggs and sausages were genetically modified with some old technology that no one bothers with anymore. You might be right and it takes 5 minutes, but if it takes them an hour to go through all their previous data to see whats going on, then they are probably just charging you an hours worth of labour. Who knows

Should be worth the money, if your MINES ECU has been calibrated for different modifications it could have a detrimental affect on your car? (probably not, but better to know for sure). That £70 will help if you ever resell the ECU. I was always put off the idea of buying one off someone with no idea whats been done to the ECU, but at least now you could say for sure.

For that sort of money and not a single shot of the interior/engine bay/custom fab work etc. Good luck to him. Brb, just putting mine up for sale for 50k

Generally speaking there are more pre-facelift supra's in the UK than facelift. Facelifts usually cost more as well, compared to it's prefacelift equivalent. I would argue that the VVTI engine is superior to it's predecessor but when it comes to upgrading them there are a few more "challenges" such as VVTI control and drive by wire. These days most after market ECU's can handle either with ease, but in the past it was definitely harder to tune, less so now. Having driven both engines, I can say I'm impressed with the low down gains of the VVTI. Tiptronic is kind of a gimic, easier to just leave it in full auto mode. Nothing wrong with automatics, just requires a different driving style to a manual when driven hard. Have only seen a handful of supra owners that know how to manipulate the auto box under hard driving.

Have you got an external fuel pressure regulator? Might be worth checking if it's still holding pressure that it was set at. Check with vacuum attatched/detatched and post what figures you are getting. If you had a vac leak then it shouldn't make you run leaner, you should be running richer. For instance if you are normally running at -9 vacuum , but are now running -6 then you would be referencing a fuel cell higher up in the table which presumably would have more fuel rather than less as it's closer to 100 kpa, unless your tune is setup differently?. If you can post your logs then I can confirm the above.