Mike2JZ

Generally speaking stock examples of Supra's are always a guaranteed sell and command a premium. Highly modified cars may be worth more in parts purchased for the car, but the value never translates properly into the actual selling price. This has been the case for the last 5-10 years of supra selling, I don't see it changing anytime soon, especially as 'mint' unmolested examples are becoming scarce. If you modify the car, you have to take a bet that someone will like exactly what you did to the car and is willing to pay more for it. Sometimes the bet doesn't work out, and you see a lot of big spec cars being broken for parts instead. If you are building the car just for you with no cares about future resale etc, then go balls out. If you are already having doubts about how it will sell in future, then poking holes in your chassis to mount a wide arch kit probably isn't the move for you.

Rear subframe ~£100 Arms & Hubs ~100 to 400 depending on condition. Diff - If it's an open diff £100, if it's LSD £250-350 depending on code Brakes , if 2/1 calipers £100, if 4/2 £600-800

Im in. Wherever the meet point is

Sold

Yes. Will pm you

I've used a lot of injector dynamics injectors with great success so far. Whatever injector you choose, make sure the manufacturer supplies information regarding dead times, short pulse width adder etc.

I see loads of Supra's that have issues with their warning light clusters not working fully or not at all. When you turn the key from ACC to ON, you should see all the warning lights appear on your light cluster. If any of the warning lights are missing then it could be a fault in the circuit, or someone has removed the bulb. If someone has removed the bulb for the engine warning light or master warning light for instance, then that would be an instant point to discuss.

If your getting voltage down to pin 69 which is the ECU ground then it might be worth checking all the ground points on the intake manifold/block/enginebayloom/footwell etc. Have had all sorts of weird issues in the past when one was left off

They are the same dude. Everything highlighted in blue on Wilbro666 is an automatic only wire and will be missing from a manual loom. It's as easy as that. The only interior plugs you will need to care about is the Orange & grey one. The small white one is only found on auto looms and dosen't control anything when using a manual.

Yes, Wilbro666 2JZGE page is like 99% accurate for the JSPEC NA manual/auto

Went Link ECU so just wired in a fresh loom lol. Otherwise I would of had to extend most of the wires on the aristo loom to reach the supra passenger footwell. Additionally would of had to order in two ECU plugs and run a bunch of custom wires as the aristo engine loom dosen't have all the ECU plugs, some are on the aristo interior loom. Also some work needed to be done to the fusebox to get ethrottle relay setup. Would of been a ballache. Easier to go standalone or using a supra 2JZ vvti loom (good luck finding one)

Just put the same engine mounts on an aristo vvti 2jz, into a mkiv chassis the other day. All went in good and everything sitting straight. crack on

HKS gives a "whooshyier" intake sound, but negligible performance increase. Stick with stock

That lemon juice cleaning does bugger all from my own experiences. Had much better results when I put a new sensor in

My record with my old NA engine was 370 miles of pure motorway driving across Europe. Maybe my current single setup is more fuel efficient, but I just can't help but pressing the loud pedal all the time.

In fairness it's not the hardest job to relocate one. Just takes a lot of patience to go through every wire then routing it through the car, seems quite intimidating.

The engine bay chassis loom that is connected to the fusebox feeds through to both the left and right side of the engine bay, so you can't just pull the fusebox side through unfortunately. Weather you put it in the glovebox, boot or hide it in the bumper the fusebox wiring will need to be extended in some shape or form.

In a word, yes.

Bought my ticket, haven't decided if I want to be drag racing on my W58 yet or not, may upgrade if I can get a spare 58 as backup

£200 - price drop

To be honest the price and condition of the car looks in sync. Could just be because it's an auto tiptronic which isn't as desirable as a manual, so may take a little longer to sell.

Unless you are planning on running a lot more on-board electronics (gauges, big ICE system etc) then you shouldn't really need to bother with a higher amp alternator. That said, if you do go to a higher amp alt, then it won't hurt anything. Think I'm running a 100amp alternator supplied by TCBParts for £120 with 1 year warranty. So far haven't had any issues with my single build, standalone ecu, and mild audio system.

1. Disconnect Battery 2. Remove 12mm nut holding main live wire to that alternator, then remove wire 3. Remove the connector on the alternator 4. Take 14mm socket on breaker bar, and push down on drive belt tensioner to relieve tension and remove belt 5. Remove the 14mm bolt and nut holding the alternator, and you should be able to slide alternator out on the stud that it sits on 6. Install new alternator and do the reverse of the above

It's not a facelift. USDM supra have side markers on front/rear, unlike jspec

Take it to another mapper to try then? Surely thats cheaper then switching to a Link.