Mike2JZ

Because going fast isn't cheap whatever way you try to justify it.

Mine gets driven daily and it gets the nuts driven off it until something breaks or I bring it back in for more upgrades. I'd rather use and abuse it then keep it sat away doing nothing

The mounting positions for the rails are different between GE & GTE. With a bit of fabrication work you could modify the fuel rail from a GE to fit a GTE manifold or vice versa. But it's not a straight forward bolt on and go

Nope. NA fuel rail supports top feed injectors TT fuel injectors support side feed injectors

I believe I've got all of the above. Drop me a message and I'll try and get some photos of everything for you

Judging from the wiring loom and some other bits I'd say thats an aristo engine. Normally the igniter is located on the other side of the loom in a supra

No it won't.

No that's a relay. In the engine bay fusebox you will find the 120amp fuse circled in red below Check the metal fuse hasn't burned / split in two pieces

You need to contact the person that put your old FPR into the car to find out what base fuel pressure they set the old FPR too. This base fuel pressure is key, as it is one of the main factors that dictates how much fuel will be injected at a given point. So you will need to have a matching base fuel pressure on your new FPR or the whole map will be off. In order to calibrate the fuel pressure on your FPR, you will typically have an extra 1/8NPT port on the FPR housing which you can screw in an electronic pressure sensor, or you can grab an analog gauge like this one. Once you have a fuel pressure sensor/gauge plumbed in, then you can start the engine and on idle, remove the vac line which goes to the FPR. With the vacuum removed you can now adjust the dial on the FPR to calibrate the base fuel pressure. So if you need a 3Bar(43.5psi) base fuel pressure, either rotate clockwise/anti clockwise the dial until you gauge shows you reading 3 Bar. With that done, lock the dial down if your FPR has some sort of locking nut, then re-attach the vac line. On idle you will see the fuel pressure drop as there is vacuum pressure acting on the spring inside the FPR, dropping fuel pressure below the base fuel pressure setting, this is normal. That's all you need to do to setup the FPR. The other situation you may be experiencing is that the new fuel pump may be struggling up top under boost to provide enough fuel against the fuel pressure in the fuel system. Assuming that the new FPR is at the same base fuel pressure as the old one. However, the car will run fine under idle/cruise conditions. Alternatively, you can just get a remap using your new hardware and the mapper can set a new fuel base pressure to take into account the new fuel pump and your power requirements.

Normally when I put new suspension on, I put the height on max. Drop the car back on its wheels, then measure how big the gaps are and see how far I need to drop it by.

I'll be at bluewater for 6:15.

Among other things yes

Speak to Keron @ extremeperformance for the arms....

You could ask Keron if he has any of those arms in stock. Normally he does. Even if they are used, it will get you back on the road

Apologies, I've been delayed this week and completely forgot about sending it. I'll schedule the collection for it now and forward you the details.

Try another dealership. My local guys are sound, can't go far enough to help me out when needed. Never any issues with orders etc

Could be an exhaust blow from the 1st Cat/2nd Cat, Downpipe, Turbo Y Pipe etc. When the engine is cold, start it up and get someone to block the exhaust at the back. You should be able to hear/see the exhaust blow if it's bad.

You jinxed it

cheap and nasty kit, will do the trick if you just want a low boost setup tho

Those look really bad. Got a set of king racing bearings i'm using in an engine build right now and they are silky smooth in comparison, maybe your batch got through QC without proper inspection. To be fair, if you are going balls out on a 6k engine rebuild, I'd suggest a better brand of bearing manufacture. King is on the budget end

+1 for autosol

They are the same between GE & GTE. Your local toyota parts department can get you new oem ones ordered in

You should use it if you want to go by the book. I haven't many times without any consequence. But I do if I remember! I use copper loctite sealant, had the most success with it over any other sealants. Only drawback is that the sealant is copper colored, so may not be suitable if you have a theme going on. Presumably the black/grey alternatives will be as effective

Nice job mate. Should sell like hotcakes!