Mike2JZ

This week I finally got let loose on the Dyno to start from scratch on my ECU tune. So before wiping everything I did a quick baseline pull of my road tune, getting 245hp/271ft.lbs @ flywheel on 5-6psi. Was running closer to 300hp sitting at 10psi boost with this same tune. Pretty uninspiring numbers but the tune did the job of keeping the engine in one piece ready for this moment. After getting the baseline out the way. I started tuning the fuel & some ignition timing on wastegate pressure. With that sorted, I slowly started raising the boost and working through the fueling and ignition for each new row as boost was increased. I did this until about 4500 rpm, before having to extrapolate the rest of the cells in higher rpm's and tuning on full ramp runs instead. After reaching 100% duty cycle on my boost solenoid, I was getting to around 1.1/1.2 bar of boost with the 7 psi wastegate spring, which is about right. A quick pull with all the boost my setup was going to give me resulted in 345hp/379ft.lbs @ the flywheel. At this point I had an issue where my fuel pressure was not rising as high as I wanted it, and my injectors were starting to get close to 100% once going past 1 Bar of boost. Obviously doing a quick pull here and there at 100% wasn't going to be too dangerous, but I knew that when the car was out on the street I wanted to get as close to 85% injector duty cycle on full chat in order to have some safety headroom on the fueling. Mathematically the Walbro255 should of been able to flow enough fuel without issue for my target boost levels. However if I was expected a 10psi rise in fuel pressure with 10psi of boost, I could only see a 6-7psi rise in fuel pressure. So I got one of my mates to sit in the boot of the car whilst I did a pull, using a multimeter to measure the 12v feed that came from the FPC, and it showed 12.8v at idle before tapering off to 10.9v under boost. It was obvious that the voltage to the pump was inefficient so the supra came off the dyno and I spent some time ripping out the old factory fuel pump wiring and replaced it with an ECU controlled relay circuit that would provide as thicker battery voltage feed to the fuel pump. With the new wiring in, the fuel pump was getting 14.5 volts on idle and dropping to 13.9 on full boost. Immediately the top end of my fueling became rich, and fuel pressure was rising with a 1:1 ratio. I will revisit the FPC wiring, as having a single relay fuel pump control only allows the ECU to turn the pump on or off. Wheras if I can sort the issue with the FPC, I will be able to control the duty cycle given to the pump at any set point, so I can have it running in low power mode whilst on idle, kind of like how the stock system is meant to work. Anyway with the fueling sorted, I tidied up the fuel map up top and started looking at optimizing the ignition timing as much as possible. I've currently pushed the ignition timing an area which is a "normal" to be at, but I need to upgrade my knock det can setup so I can filter the input audio by certain frequencies. In the higher RPM it is really hard to hear anything through all the valvetrain noise and makes me nervous to push the ignition any further at this stage. My ECU logs show that there is no knock when I push the ignition some more, but I really want to be confident in my audio so I can cross check the results and not just rely on the ECU. Anyway for the moment I'm happy with : 367 HP & 387 Ft.Lbs @ the wheels 431 HP & 455 Ft.Lbs @ the flywheel Boost = 1 Bar AFR Target = 0.78 Lambda under full boost. 440cc Jspec injectors sitting at 86% DC% on full chat. Chinese T70 turbo is a bit laggy, but can't complain on performance for £150 but I think the engine has some more to give with the ignition tuning. Next up I'll be playing with my adjustable cam pulleys and see what sort of gains I can get from that.

Might be a bit of a stretch, but you could try making a forum post on the german forum https://www.toyota-supra.de/forum and see if you get lucky with some info there

It's not crap, I genuinely think they are missing out. You are replacing the many actions & skill required to use the clutch and shift a manual box up/down successfully, with a tap of the flappy paddle or leaving the autobox in D. I'm not arguing that these sort of auto/semi auto systems are slower than a manual, they are usually faster. But if we are talking about the "fun" of driving, then I honestly can't think of anything worse than jumping in a sweet car to find out I can't pedal it like I want to. We live in a world of comforts and everything being served on a silver platter half the time, it's nice to jump into something that requires a bit of a fight to drive hard before it rewards you. Also comparing the supra autobox to a lambo or rally car style gearbox is pretty funny. Credit where it's due it was a nice box back in the 90's, but it is in no way similar to driving a modern DCT box or a full on rally box.

Yeah man of course.

I know this is going to sound petty, but the street fighter, like all log manifolds sound terrible imo. Obviously it's design allows for quicker spool which is hard to argue with, but I'm not a fan of the sound at all. I'd rather suffer from an extra 500rpm spool time and have a tubby manifold that makes a 2J sound like it should.

Don't see what the problem is. Their return policy seems fair otherwise you will get a bunch of DIY'ers screwing up the install of parts breaking parts and claiming unfairly.

I've got a 70mm intercooler setup. The guy who had it on his supra before was running 550hp with no issues. If you are running 76mm setup then it should flow enough for 650.

Personally I like a really involved driving experienced and like to be kept busy with a manual box. The supra is a barge as it is, having an auto in it limits the fun in my opinion.

All those sensors require a sensor earth connection back to the ECU (if it works like a Link ECU). If the earth has been compromised then it will take out all the sensors that share that sensor earth circuit. So worth checking under your inlet manifold (if thats where your ECU is grounded). Otherwise, most of those sensors require a 5v output from the ECU, this could also been compromised in some way. Usually these things are a grounding issue though

If I have to watch yet another supra car review where the commentator states that the interior is "like a cockpit and so focused for the driver", i think I'm going to hang myself. 23k for an NA, we are in the wrong country

I've used Revotec ones and they seem to do the job well. Mishimoto ones I've used before are ok, but had issues with one of the supplied relays being dead out the box.

Around 85c would be a good starting point. If you can log your temperatures, you should do a comparison between different fan start points and see what gives you the best result.

Remove the aux belt and see if problem/sound persists. If it does, then I'd get the rocker covers off and check your valve clearances as specified in factory manual. Also take a look at the conditions of the cam lobes, check for scouring etc. Check the torque on your cam pulley bolts. If the head looks clean then I can only think that the noise would come from something from the cambelt system like a tensioner bearing, but that wouldn't explain the misfire.

So long as you are aware it will be a project and you will dump at least 3 times the price back into it eventually, then yeah go for it at 6k

mellonman on here has one I believe. Might be worth shooting him a message

Oh also forgot to mention that the smoking seems to be a lot better now with the new turbo and breather system as I can't see a smokescreen out the back anymore like I did before after re-appling throttle after the engine has been in high vacuum. There's probably still a bit, but I've done pretty much everything to address the smoking other than taking the block apart. If I can scrap together a good enough xmas bonus then I'll try building another block bored out to 86.5, rather than using a used 86mm block that had been honed. So anyway, this is how the engine is looking currently. So with no more boost leaks, oil returns failing etc it's back to getting the car ready for the dyno. Upgraded my stock knock sensors to Bosch ones Also installed an EGT sensor & EGT AMP to bridge between the sensor and link ecu. Will have to mount the sensor post turbo for now which isn't ideal, but will still give me some idea of whats going on until I can be bothered to tap it into the manifold pre turbo. EGT Amp from Finland. Quality seems really nice and nice to see individual calibration was carried out on it. Not to shabby for $40 Since installing the fuel pressure sensor I noticed that once I started turning up the boost past 10 psi the injectors were starting to struggle to stay under 100% duty cycle. Not that 440 injectors are going to give me huge headroom on fueling anyway, but they should be able to handle 10psi+ on this turbo. AFR's are still ok, but defintately on the limit. Looking at my fuel pressure showed that something was definately not keeping up. The stock regulator is rising pressure as boost pressure rises, but struggles hard to keep pressure stable. Doing some calculations for the stock 190lph fuel pump, it was showing that it would start to struggle to flow enough fuel at this point. So I swapped it for a 255 walbro Immediately saw better results and could boost higher than before. Should get even better results if I upgrade the stock fuel pump wires and get it reading closer to 13/14v rather than 12v. Obviously need to optimize the map on the dyno, but should mean that the next fuel part that is the bottleneck will be the injectors. So the car is more or less ready now and we just took delivery of this in the workshop. Should be able to give it a whirl this weekend

After measuring up what was needed for the 70mm pipework routing and ordering them I then looked towards switching my ignition coils. I opted to go with audi R8 coils which sit a bit higher, and are have a solid metal section rather than a split metal section found on the TT coils previously. From experience at work, these are a lot more reliable. Just need to find them in black for the future Also ordered in an oil catch can, AN10 fittings, AN 10 lines. The AN10 Fittings used a 1/2 thread hole, so cam covers had to come off, baffles removed and 17mm holes drilled in place of the stock PCV ports, before being tapped and the fittings could be screwed in, baffles re-sealed and re-installed. Also got a bracket for the boost solenoid which now sits on the bulkhead rather than dangling on zipties. Used some braided lines for the wastegate ports so they would have less chance of melting. The day before supra pod the pipework arrived for the intercooler. So in a mad overnighter I started mocking up all the pipework, new compressor housing, and started making a new hardline return line from an R33 turbo T3 return flange. 11:00PM, need to be up at 04:30am to get to SupraPod. Fml Somehow managed to get all the pipework tig welded, and painted crinkle black and everything installed back at 02:30. Went out for a quick test, and blew an intercooler pipe straight off on the first pull. Felt like a kick in the teeth, but got the car back in the workshop, had an hours sleep. Got up and managed to get the pipe secured using a jack to push it up into place. You can see below it's a bit tight on that joiner, where I didn't make the pipe long enough but has been holding recently. Need to go back and extend the pipe slightly in future. On the plus side, new turbo return won't melt now, and gives enough clearance for the new turbo housing to be secured properly and no more crappy rubber silicone 90 on the compressor housing. Absolutely knackered but made it to SupraPod. Drove it all the way without touching boost not wanting to risk blowing that pipe off again. Up until a GTR near SantaPod came up behind me and I said sod it. Put my foot down and it boosted. Couldn't believe it, quickly turned my laptop on, turned the boost up and started playing with the GTR all the way to Pod. Didn't take the car up the strip cause W58 life, but was a good day out. Nearly died on the way home falling asleep at the wheel, but all good otherwise

So on my quest to figure out what was causing the smoke. Next up to was the change the turbo before going on a 1400 mile trip into Europe and back. £150 later I had a new replacement 't70' eBay special turbo, and I was able to just switch the cores over and go. So looking at the photo above, a couple of things annoyed me. Due to design of manifold and turbo I'm using, there is bugger all clearance for the oil return line and annoyingly the oil return fitting basically sat right above the manifold. Secondly, the turbo elbow coupler was really quite stretched and forced into place, it worked but wasn't sitting naturally. Thirdly, due to the location of the oil return fittings, I couldn't get the last turbo housing bolt in securely, and couldn't rotate the housing as it either hit the manifold or strut tower. typical. so had to deal with a small boost leak from the compressor housing. But with no time left it would have to do, and I set off into Europe for a week. No major hiccups from the engine, however the heated 8 hour drive each way in 35 degrees sun started to show a weakness in the Haas TT coilpacks. Even with the dwell times on the coils set correctly, some of the coils experienced some melting on the areas circled above. Not the end of the world, just started getting some misfires on boost. Once the engine was cold it was ok again until the coils got really hot from the ambient temp again. Luckily I had some spares in the boot I was able to swap out as well The oil return oil fitting also decided to shit the bed and start weeping oil due to the o-ring getting melted sitting so close to the manifold. Again not a catastrophic issue, just had to top oil every now and then. Met up with member 'Supra.SZ-R' in Switzerland and has some fun disrupting the peace ragging the supra through the peaceful landscape one evening before heading back home. Once I got home it was time for next round of maintenance / upgrades. Got rid of the stock fuel pulsation dampener and run AN6 lines & fittings from the fuel filter straight to the rail. Also got an inline fuel pressure sensor installed so my Link could keep track of that. Following that I smoke tested the car and could see the leak from the compressor housing and from under the wing, on one of the stock rubber couplings that went to the sidemount. The SMIC's cooling performance from what I could see on my IAT logs wasn't as great as I expected, but could be down to not having the factory ducts for it. Sold it to another member and put the money towards a FMIC kit that came off another members single turbo. The FMIC was used, but in still decent nick. Of course what should of been a 20 minute job turned into a ballache. Guess I was being a bit optimistic thinking that everything would just fit. Not a single pipe was going to work as I wanted it to without it fouling on the viscous fan or other parts. The kit came with custom 80mm pipework even though the intercooler outlets flanges were 70mm. So already I wanted to convert the system to use 70mm across the board.

Usually that's down to the rear upper wishbone joint/bushes worn. Also worth checking that one of your suspension coils/struts isn't completely shot

Psh. Another area the supra was ahead of it's time. Can do that from the comfort of the drivers seat

I would say around 8-9k. Maybe 10k if the car is immaculate and the suspension dosen't feel like its 20 years old. Biggest thing holding it back from getting more money is the W58 in my opinion. Whilst they are a very nice smooth box, the reliability when you start sticking boost through them is always a potential timebomb.

Factory Jspec NA & TT fuel pumps are the same (23221-46070). Give or take supplying 190 lph. UK/USDM TT's has got the bigger factory fuel pump If it ain't broke then I wouldn't worry especially on a non turbo application, but if you do want to change it with something then just get a walbro 255 and keep it simple. You will have some headroom with fueling if you ever go turbo as well

I always jack off the diff or front subframe. Maybe your suspension was creaking? Or your diff mounts are severely worn