Mike2JZ

Yeah looking at the photo in your thread, in comparison kits ive used are using the stock pilot bearing, but in theory the way your kit has it shouldn't make a difference. I know it's a pig but the best way to find out if you have a issue with clearance is to take the box off and inspect to see any rubbing. Also another thing worth mentioning. Kits ive used supply an extended gear fork pivot, as the pilot bearing adapter extends the input shaft of the gearbox by ~53mm, so the fork also has to sit further out from the stock location, otherwise the fork would be sitting at a diagonal and wouldn't provide enough pressure to pressure plate to release clutch. Dunno if thats the same for the Colin's kit, but another thing that might worth checking out

Ok well check this out. This is the size of the input shaft adapter on most of the kits I've installed. On these kits there is a pilot bearing that needs to be installed in the normal place in the 2JZ crank, or on the newer kits the bearing is built into the flywheel.

I've had a similar sort of issues with BMW adapter kits previously, but never as bad as gears grinding. For me the pedal just always felt really low and pretty terrible to use and sometimes running a different master/pressure plate/release bearing seemed to help. I've never played around with a colin's bmw kit before, but I have been using a lot of PMC & ABC kits. What could be interesting is if you measure the billet pilot bearing adapter, and I can compare that verses what I get in different kits. Do colins provide a replacement for the plastic gear fork pivot pin?

I've got a competition clutch stage 3 holding around 430hp/450 ft of torque currently . Had the clutch for almost 20k miles now with no issues, bit grabby compared to stock but pedal is light and useable.

I've got one original £50, unsprayed, nothing broken etc

Check for any trigger/rpm sync errors on the ECU. Check you aren't hitting some sort of ignition cut due to a safety limit. Given that it's giving you issues with more boost then I would hazard a guess it has something to do with your combo of ignition coils/spark plug gaps etc. As for injectors, try and see what duty cycle they are running at with more boost, check you aren't running too lean/rich etc.

Looking for the above please.

cool story.

Shock and horror as summer sport tyres perform crap in the winter.

Yes that is possible. Assuming you are not upgrading your fuel system in any way, then the VE of the engine off boost won't change by putting on a new turbo kit. So driving off boost will be fine. If you really want to play it safe, leave an intercooler pipe disconnected so it can't build boost. Won't be a fun drive but it'll get your from point A to B. You can cut off additional plugs, but if you want to keep the wiring in a way that will allow you to revert to stock loom then you will need to find a creative way to tie the extra plugs out the way. You should be able to get away with hiding them under the rocker cover trim. Water lines may still need to be used if your turbo requires a water in/water out. However, you may still some extra water ports that will need to be blocked off. Bung with a jubilee clip will be enough to block it, and will allow you to revert to stock again. Any vacuum ports that aren't being used anymore can be bunged in a similar fashion. Should be ok on clearance if Whifbitz have not mentioned otherwise in their advert/supplied in kit. You may find space might be a little tight between lower water pipe feed and your intercooler pipes, but normally ok. Best to clarify with them. Manifold studs removal can be tricky, especially on a 20 year old head. They have a torx head that you can get a tool on to try to loosen them. But if you're unlucky the torx end will just break in your tool. Or sometimes the entire stud will shear off, which turns the job into a nightmare. So proceed with caution with this, you may have to try some tricks like heating up the stud before removal etc. If you do get them out in one piece then putting in new ones is pretty straightforward. Bit of copper grease won't hurt. As for torque settings, the closest I can find on the factory manual for them is. Generally you just need to get them in and tighten a little past handtight. They don't need to be done really tight as you might risk pulling the thread out of the ally head.

Are you on jspec or uk spec twin turbo's? Going by the factory manual, a stock supra is going to making between 0.6-0.75 bar (8.8-10.8 psi) of boost. If you have the right supporting BPU mods, then you can go up to the generally accepted safe limits of 1.2 bar (17psi) on jspec turbos & 1.4 bar on UK turbos (20psi). You can go higher obviously, but longevity of turbo may be affected. Generally speaking you will make less boost in a lower gear versus a higher gear. In a nutshell, the more load the engine experiences the higher the boost it can create, versus a lower load situation. If you're boost controller has a gear detection mode, then you could force the duty cycle higher in lower gears to try and get more boost. But the lower boost is more a mechanical symptom which may not be able to be remedied unless you change something mechanically.

Throw the emanage in the bin, complete waste of time imo. Go with fcon just he wary.not many mappers for it

£25 isn't too shabby if your into that sort of drift car

Remove the EFI relays from the engine fusebox, so then the car won't be going anywhere unless the thief also happens to be an auto electrician Keron would be your best bet for new key barrel set.

Great marketing from them really. It's like the iPhone of the car world.

Good to see you went with the RL adapter. Will do the job nicely!

Grab one of these oil cooler sandwich plates. This allows you to run a thermostat sandwich plate whilst giving you two ports for oil temp/oil pressure senors. Saves you having to run a double sandwich plate setup. The only other sandwich plates that are identical in design/function that I've been able to find are from Greddy, or the Greddy knockoffs if you fancy risking your engine on one of those. You can run your turbo oil feed line from either the sandwich plate, but I prefer to run mine off the block on a 1/8 BSP to AN-3/AN-4 line. If the forum is becoming a ghost town, then don't contribute to the problem by deleting your posts if you don't get an answer as quickly as facebook. Facebook, is good for a quick answer and is more convenient to use, but unlike the forum in 2 years time when you want to go look for some info, it will be gone. Whilst it will still be available here. So even if it takes longer, don't give up on it.

Works fine with the auto tunnel most times. Just need to make sure the selector is extended/modified correctly

So far everything has been running smoothly, haven't broken anything yet. Need to get some larger injectors soon and crank the boost up some more, hopefully at the start of the new year. Rigged up a microphone and camera today to get some video action. Sounds pretty sweet. Just needs more boost Might be taking the supra on a winter trip into europe in the next few weeks. Definitely going to need some winter tyres I think. Other than that, no major plans for the car at the moment, just enjoying it.

Worth a crack, you never know!

If I remember correctly, I cheated a bit on the second run and had a bit of a hill to help me Somewhere in the region of 6 seconds seems the best you can get

Firstly, define your goals for what you want the engine to achieve, displacement, power goals, boost levels etc. Will it be a road engine, race engine etc. Research some parts that might fit your goals so you know roughly what could go into the finished product. Second, take your existing block/head/crank etc to a machinist. Explain the above to him, devise a plan of attack, get their advise on clearances/bore finishes/balancing/porting/parts cleaning etc. Let them work their magic, and let them confirm the specs of the machine work (worth double checking once received back from the machine shop). Then you can order in parts like pistons/bearings/valves etc. After you got all your machines bits and new parts you can get round to assembling it or get a shop to do so for you. In terms of engine parts and costs, sky is kind of the limit really. But for your average 1000hp built bottom end, you will be looking at minimum 3k in bottom end aftermarket components (pistons/rods/bearings/arp fasteners/head gasket oem service items), but you could go mental spending many times that with billet main caps/heavy duty components/strokers etc. Machine work cost kind of depends on how much altercation is required of your current engine. You could spend a couple hundred quid on just getting the block faced, honed, cleaned. Or easily over a grand if you require boring, deburing, torque plates, main cap alignment, crank balancing etc etc. If an engine assembler is handed all the required parts and main components that have been machined to spec, then the assembly process will be somewhat straight forward and labour should be less then a grand. Any issues in the process may put this cost higher. Don't forget to get someone with experience of running an engine in properly, otherwise all the above may be for nothing.

I usually mount my bosch knock sensor for my knock audio on #2 intake side. It's next to the cylinder 5 and just below to deck, great location if you ask me.

Recently put a 350z 6 speed CD009 on a single turbo supra using this colins adapter kit . Compared to some of the BMW kits I've fitted, this 350 kit ticks all the boxes. Everything fits nice and easy, drives nice, makes less noise etc. Haven't tested this gearbox on something with crazy power, but seems to be a reliable box when running decent power according to what sort of the Americans are reporting. Pricing seems to be in the 3-4k range including kit & gearbox. Could be another option to consider.

Sent you a PM