Mike2JZ

Normally run engine in using mineral oil 10w40 or Motorsport Competition Running In Oil from Millers. Typically limit the RPM on the engines whilst using this oil dand dont get the oil super hot (110C+) for prolonged periods.

Hi, Have the following from my car up for sale so I can fund a more ridiculous transmission, so get yourself a deal. All the following parts will come together as a full plug and play kit for mkiv supra with a JZ engine and has everything you need regardless if you are converting from a manual or auto setup. My aim with this set of parts was to be able to hold north of 1000hp with a similar amount of torque, which they have all been able to do with ease on my last setup. Whilst I started my new project on the Supra, I sent the transmission back to PGS in Finland for a service checkover. Whilst there I had a few gears replaced with the new "HD Formula" gears which are a bit beefier and have some treatments on them compared to the "HD" gears. Gearbox was assembled balanced and clearanced by PGS, and has done 0 miles since the service so fresh and ready for the next owner. Gear ratio's of box are the same as OEM R154, I would pair this with 3.7 Ratio diff for best balance or 3.2 Diff if you have lots of power and want lots of top end speed. Gearbox is noisier than a stock R154, but as the gears are helical cut you dont get the crazy gearbox whine of a straightcut gearset, so you wont go deaf if driving a long distance. As there are no synchros the shifting on this box can be extremely fast. You can still drive it around and use a clutch between gear shifts like a normal box if you are poodling around or if you setup flat foot shifting then you can keep the throttle pinned through gearshifts and have the ECU cut enough power momentarily to allow the box to slide into next gear. I've recorded shifts as fast at 70ms using this method. Clutch pedal is super light on this setup and clutch plates can be slipped easily. Certainly grabbier than an OEM clutch but its not an on/off switch, can get decent clutch slippage and modulation. Clutch has done around 1000miles and has plenty of life left in it, so wont have to look into servicing that anytime soon. Parts Included: R154 Late Tripod Style Casing from JZX100 PGS HD & HD Formula Mix Gearset rated for 1400nm of torque MKIV Supra OEM Crossmember & OEM Gearbox mount SRD HD Propshaft W58 Shifter (will also provide the R154 shifter as a spare) Solid Shifter Bushings OEM Gear speed sensor OEM W58 Tunnel Rubber/Cover KTY23680-2E 230mm Twin Ceramic rated for 1800nm of torque - Includes Flywheel, ARP Flywheel Bolts & Concentric Slave cylinder setup. OEM Clutch Master cylinder + Clutch Line Price = £6500 ono Collection from SRD, or can quote to get everything on a pallet delivered. Quick video so you can see some shifting and noise from the setup.

When are we starting the MKIV Supra onlyfans page?

Pmd

Injectors get their 12v from AM2 which is passed through the ignition switch. There is also a grey connector [BC1] in passenger footwell (as above). Pin 9 is the injector 12v supply. Make sure this is connected, no damaged etc. If you arent getting 12v at Pin9 on this connector then either you have an issue with immobilizer or ignition barrel is faulty. I'd put a guess on immobilizer

Typically with HKS FCD, settings lower than 12 will make the engine run leaner as the load signal (MAP) gets skewed more the lower the setting is. This skewed load signal has a knock on affect on fueling/ignition/idle and a few other bits and pieces. A setting of around 9 is generally in the right area, but to be honest unless you are monitoring AFR/Knock and power output it can be hard to dial in the HKS FCD settings, as there are variances on how each 2JZ runs even from the factory which has a knock on affect on what the HKS FCD will do. From factory 2JZ runs quite rich on boost (~10AFR), said that If you are running rich enough to cause smoke come out the exhaust, then I'd imagine this will be why your oil smells of fuel. There is a number of different things that could be causing this, but my approach to diagnosing anything on a stock ECU car is to first start with the ECU. In their old age these ECU's can do funny things and you can chase your tail sometimes trying to approach the problem from the wrong end. Normally I change ECU, if issue is still prevalent then I dive into further diagnostics for whatever system could be at fault.

Electric stock fan is controlled by a temp switch at bottom of the rad so works independently to ECU, so likely you are getting very warm in the rad if you get that to come on (98C+) id put the HKS FCD back to 12 and lower the boost for a test. See if issue still relevant like that. had a similar issue to this once with a stock ECU, used to run like shit for 30seconds after starting, smoking etc then cleared up

If you are filling a catch can on a TT6 then you have big problems, engine about to poo itself. Swampy is correct, there are two most common issues on these cars now when it comes to smoking

The only instances I've seen of a 2JZ BPU leaning out hard enough to cause a cut in power was all related the fuel pump. So it was a fairly easy fix alll things considered. Worth checking that HKS FCD is set to around 9 on the dial. Any more than that can cause it lean it out more than required.

Monitor AFR and check you arent leaning out

Its very loud!

Oh go on then, have a teaser. Decided in the end to ditch all the oem electronics that I was going to integrate back into the car and go balls out on the following electronics. Motec M150 ECU Syvecs X20 E888 Expander Motec PDM15 Motec PDM30 Motec Rotary Dial Controller Motec C1212 Dash Motec 15 Button Keypad MSEL Master Relay Motec DHB (for electronic wastegate control) Motec PAL Rear Facing Camera ECUMaster CANSwitch Wireless Network Module for M150/C1212 Connection Heres most bits mounted to a test board that I've now wired up and sitting at home with me now. So when I get a chance in the evenings, I've started doing some calibration and integration of all the above so I can setup and test all the electronics without needing them in the car. Once I'm happy that I've got what I need, then I can go back to wiring plan and finalize that. Got some other juicy updates but I'll wait till I get working on the car again to show those.

Workshop has been super busy since start of the year. but I've been working on some stuff and ordering some more bits in the background. Once weather is a bit more reliable I'll get her out the garage and continue progress

I see those types of clamps leak all the time, make sure pipework is perfectly square with each other and smoke test once installed. Nice build!

Get another one from another engine and get the caps line bored together, shouldn’t need much if it’s just one cap

That sucks. hopefully he finds it, doubt it will come to the UK but will keep an eye out

Havent got anymore used ones, only new ones on our store https://www.srdtuning.com/product/4290/

Sold

Yeah still available.

My g40 vband for turbine housing looks like this if that helps you

Can you take some better photos

Worth mentioning the cams themselves don’t make noise cause you are on stock springs AC. Sometimes BC cams VVti with BC valve springs can make some noise.

Putting a post up on behalf of a friend not on the forum. MK4 Supra Fitment. (Rear Arches need to be rolled or trimmed) Work emotion CR2P wheels. Done maybe 50 miles or so since tyres were fitted. Very nice looking and fitting wheels. Reason for sale is that I will be racing the car, so these wheels are not appropriate. Spec: 11.5x18 ET52.5 Rear 10x18 ET 42 Front Tyres are Michelin pilot super sports (brand new) Tyres size: Front: 265/40/18 Rear: 295/35/18 Stud pattern: 5x114.3 (supra) Come with centre caps and if required, wheels nuts. Collection only due to the size and weight. £3500 with offer Located Near Winchester or collection from SRD Thanks, Kane

I agree on most, but please avoid RC Engineering like the plague. They are an old school injector with inferior design compared to all the aforementioned brands that are based off a bosch injector which wont let you down.

FIC600's or 1000's or ID1050X is the only injectors I'd ever entertain on an NA-T. Both perform really well and consistently. Don't cheap out on injectors as they are one of the main contributing factors towards having nice drivability.