Mike2JZ

Imported that video into some editing software and I've only got 1-2 frames where only part of the number plate is eligible. All other frames are far too blurry to make it out. So inconclusive from what I can see, unless someone has some magical enhance CIA tools

Inject Meth

Problems you have mentioned have already been resolved in the tuning sphere for DI engines.

The N54 and newer straight 6 bmw engines are pretty much the only petrol turbo I6's from the factory these days that have really good tuning potential, compared to our 2J's of yesteryear. It might not say 3JZ on it, but the newer bmw engines do hammer when you strap a single turbo on them using stock internals (sounds familiar) From what I've seen with them first hand, I would be pretty happy to see something similar being used in this new release. Even the 1JZ/2JZ's weren't made solely by toyota, design & engineering que's were taken from Yamaha and the Germans previously.

Correct, that is the cam sensor you are missing. Fair play for living room engine work

You don't need spring clamps.

Welcome, get some pics up !

Or you can convert you current VVTI throttle body back to a cable driven TB using the following: http://www.driftmotion.com/2JZ-GTE-VVTi-ETCSi-Drive-By-Wire-Delete-p/dm3403.htm Works a treat. Just used it on an aristo engine in a supra running link ecu.

I've tried cleaning mine with no decent results. Ended up painting mine

Can do it for £50 + postage

Do you need a W58 to 2JZ bellhousing? I've got one if you want

He's in the UK. Might be worth asking on facebook group "Toyota Supra's and parts for sale Europe"

Yes

Yeah that's going to piss out oil. Either weld it on or get another one. The flange surface on your current one is too small imo.

Since I went single, I've been monitoring my oil temperature without an external cooler for a while now and for your average drive with a few pulls here or there I see temperatures in the high 90's. Prolonged motorway driving has oil sitting at 100. Only when I start driving like a nutter for a decent amount of time, only then can I see oil temperatures starting to go between 110-115, which is normally where I ease off the throttle and give the engine some time to cool down. Annoyingly without a proper cooler, it does take a few minutes for oil temps to drop back down, which can be a bit frustrating. I'm not even running the stock oil cooler system either like most TT's have. I've just got the NA oil filter housing. Results should be better with the stock system. Do you need an oil cooler for road use? Not really. Is there a benefit if you don't drive like miss daisy. Definitely, I've got a 20 row cooler waiting to go on.

Cheers guys, makes for a good story Yeah type of Link I'm running only supports high impedance injectors. So I'll have to wire some in-line injector resistors for the UK spec 550's to work. Or I'll just find some top feed injectors if a good deal comes up. Ignore the instructions on the tin. Prep the surface like you would trying to paint anything else, the cleaner/smoother the surface the better the result. Apply 1 coat of wrinkle paint. Covering all areas sufficiently, but not so much that you start getting runs. Get a heat gun onto the part immediately after. After a few minutes of you giving heat to all areas of the part, you should see the magic start to happen and the wrinkles forming. Once all areas of part have wrinkled, leave to dry and finishing curing for a few hours and you're done. Sounds simple and it is, but might take a few goes before you get the oem-like finish. If you make any mistakes, you can just add another layer of wrinkle paint and heat it up. Usually sorts out any issues.

On the plus side aside from the gearbox, car ran superbly. No more issues with oil returns, boost leaks etc. So I've got two W58's in the garage that also met their demise in a similar way to mine. Hoping out of the 3 I can rebuild one good one. In the meantime I'm on the hunt for R154 flywheel, clutch, mkiii prop. See how long I can get an R154 to last before that probably goes bang at some point. Supra has been sat in the corner since I got back collecting dust, but tonight I pulled the engine and box out to see how bad the box was. Metal shavings are always a good start. "I'll take broken gears for 200, Alex" And la piece de resistance Good luck trying to find replacement gears, let alone gears for the secondary shaft. Game Over for this box I think. Will salvage what I can but sad to see it like this. Was such a nice box till some idiot blew it up So Supra is off the road whilst I save up for the rest of the R154 bits. In the meantime I'm going to keep myself busy with: - Relocating battery and fusebox to boot. - Ditching spare wheel and making a small boost build to house fusebox, battery, amps, water meth tank, fuel pump ecu etc. - 550cc UK injector install + injector resistor pack - Outside of car getting a fresh coat of 040 Super white. More fun soon!

Made it to my destination. Aside from the box making some strange sounds the car still drove alright. Found a very helpful swiss jap importer/tuner, Jesse @ Hanshin Imports. Dude was a legend, tried to help me find a W58 replacement box on xmas eve. No luck there, but he helped me source an R154 from a MKIII Supra for £750 and let me use his garage to change gearbox oil. If you're ever in the area, give him a shout. Fast forward a couple weeks and it was time to drive back to the UK. What else could go wrong? Set off early in the morning and followed Google Maps on the shortest route back through the mountains to leave Switzerland. Wish I had a GoPro on the car. Started off on what I thought was a small hill, ended up having to scale a bloody mountain covered in snow for a good hour. Snow tyres did not let me down thankfully. Super enjoyable drive actually, think I'll do it again next year if I can. [video=youtube;uegEky-lYVI] Drove past a ski resort with people waiting to hit the ski slopes at one point. The confused looks I was getting was amazing. Some english nutter driving a supra that sounds like it's gearbox was about to break, going sideways up a mountain. Loved it. After the mountain I joined the motorway again and go a little throttle happy in second. Bang, lost second gear and noise on gearbox sounded even worse. Before the box had a bit of a rattle to it. It had now developed a full on knock. Only 600 miles to go with 3 gears. I was balls deep at this point, no point trying to turn back. Turn the music up to the max and start praying. Box was completely fubared but good old supra got me home. By the time I got to Eurotunnel I had to do a small launch every time I wanted to pull away otherwise the box would lock up.

Got the supra all packed up shortly after, got a nice early start in France and started heading towards Switzerland. Couple of hours into the journey I merged onto a motorway in third. Went WOT to get up to speed and as boost kicked in, I heard the sound of something mechanical breaking and lost all drive. As the panic started to kick in, I flash backed to me thinking "yeah I don't need europe breakdown insurance" 24 hours previous Honestly thought the engine had let go, but couldn't see any smoke. No error warnings on the Dash, so gave the throttle a quick blip and still the engine was still alive. And then it dawned on me "dude you've got a W58 on a single turbo". Ohhhhh Tried 4th gear and it drove. Tried 5th gear, and it drove. Slowed down at the next service station, and cautiously tested 1st and 2nd. Both working still Not ideal losing third, but I figured it would get me to Switzerland. So I went back to trying to enjoy the rest of the drive.

So in preparation for the winter trip to Switzerland I got some beefy winter tyres in case I found myself in a snowy situation. 265/45/18 Also bumped up the suspension all around to give the chassis more clearance so I didn't turn into a snow plow. Whilst going over the suspension I noticed my rear right shock was pretty knackered and I found the spring had jumped the locking rings. Looking at the manual for Tein Super Streets, it showed that the shocks should have a large washer for the spring base to sit on. My setup dosen't have this...bit late to complain to the person who sold them to me so I put some stock suspension on the rear of the car. Will need to grab some new suspension this year! With that done, I gave the engine a quick tune on the dyno. Basically turned the ignition down a tad just in case the fuel abroad wasn't the same as Tesco 99, so the knock system wouldn't have to work as hard should their be any knock. Also set my cruising AFR targets a little leaner then usual to try and get some more MPG. Also made sure I had some pops and bangs ready for some swiss tunnels. With the tyres done and the car given a once over / service, went and gave the tyres a quick test in the damp/cold. Was not expecting these tyres to spin all the way till 4th. Passenger nearly shat his pants. Not used to running 45 sidewall tyres. Wheel spin felt like sking through fresh snow on them. [video=youtube;dGNmbe-90VE]

Take a look at this page: http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/2002/supra/jza80-alfvz/4_291130_006_/body/5501_instrument-panel-glove-compartment/2#55569 Diagram there should show what you are looking for. You might be out of luck with regards to ordering a new one from Toyota, probably easier to find one from a breaker.

Upgrade my R154 with MC internals/new bearings etc, then shoot for 500hp or more. Fusebox, Battery & Water/Meth relocation to boot in spare wheel well. New coilovers as mine are knackered. Respray outside of the car. Those are the main bits I'd like to get done this year. Hopefully get some track days in if everything goes to plan.

Can you upload a photo of it.

Whifbitz offer that piggyback with their na-t builds, might be worth sending them a message to see who they use for mapping it