Mike2JZ

Doing a proper NA-T build is going to cost you at least the same if not more than dropping in a supra GTE engine & wiring loom. HKS F-Con IS is capable of running NA-T but you will need to take it to an FCON authorized dealer/tuner in order to get the tuning done. So this may limit your choices on where you can get the ECU tuned depending on where you are in the country.

This sensor part # is for GTE engine. You need a GE one keith I think? They might be the same thread pitch between GE/GTE, can't remember. The one I listed is from a GE

Power steering Bolt = 90401-16014 The dash water temp sensor has two valid part numbers: 83420-16040 & 83420-20030. Either should be fine, the difference in part number is due to manufacturer.

Engine Type JDM TT 2JZGTE VVTI Supra Engine Engine Spec Stock, unopened Turbo(s) Stock Jspec's running in TTC Modifications Walbro 255 @ 13.5v AN6 Fuel Lines. Fuel pulsation dampener bypassed AEM Universal Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Injector Dynamics 1050x Injectors + Top Feed Fuel Rail Custom 3'' downpipe back exhaust Superspark Ignition Coils (Wasted Spark setup) Whifbitz 4'' Intercooler Kit HKS Air Filter Oil cooler 3 Port boost solenoid Fuel Used Tesco 99 AFR target of 11.5 whilst boosting. Transmission R154 Power run performed in 4th gear ECU Link Extreme Wire In ECU VVTI system tuned Factory e-throttle system tuned Traction control tuned Dyno Used DD @ Hidden Performance Power figure Recorded 370 rwhp, dyno estimated 435hp at flywheel. 450 Ft.lbs estimated of torque @ flywheel Boost Pressure Peaks at 1.2 Bar, tapers between 1-1.1Bar after. Notes This Supra is planned to be a track car. Map is fairly conservative with timing to see how it reacts whilst being hammered on the track and getting hot. Further power gains expected to be had once data from track has been recorded. Hopefully the twins last through the ordeal

http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/3%20port%204%20port%20boost.html

6pk 1865

3/4 unf-16

Aquamist sell the individual components you are looking for.

Use one of these. https://www.racinglines.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=87_92_282&product_id=158 You can use the factory oil cooler housing or bolt it straight to block. If you want to bolt to block, you will need oil filter stud extension.

I've installed 1JZ VVTI into MK4 + wiring before, its not that bad. Think you are worrying for nothing

You will need a R154 flywheel. Normally found on 1JZGTE. W58 one looks similar but size is different.

Flywheel, Clutch, Release Bearing, Slave Cylinder, MK3 Front Propshaft.

VVTI is the way forwards boys.

That one is a direct fit as it has the remote shifter housing, so no need to extend anything with that.

Ah yiiiiissss

I normally run coppers for running in & mapping. They are cheaper, give the same performance (within their lifespan) and easier to adjust gaps if needed. For most single builds a BKR7E plug is a good place to start. Though you will need to reduce gap as boost increases. If you are going for crazy power then you will need to go colder, BKR8E but then you are looking at iridium plugs. You should consult your mapper about this really, as it will depend on your power goals, boost, fuel type etc.

TCBParts do a new alternator for 120, or 90 with an exchange of your old alternator. Can recommend the alternators they supply

Usually those symptoms are attributed to alternator failure or crank pulley is failing. Check that the outer ring of the crank pulley has not come loose. This is a common issue with crank pulleys after some age. Try marking the crank pulley with a line of tipex and see if the lines move. If alternator is dying then not much you can do other than getting it refurbished or getting a new one.

I also stopped by the Geneva auto show to see the JZA90. Got to admit, looks pretty sweet up close. Definitely a lot more excited for this now. Saw the BMW Z4 as well. Supra is getting the better deal in terms of looks imo. Evolution of the supra. Tried to get any angle I could to see any signs of an engine inside but I'm pretty sure there was nothing inside. Or if it was, then it wasn't running? No intercoolers that I could make out through the grills. Rear exhaust pipe also looked fresh, like exhaust gas never passed through it, especially when shining torch deep within it. No exhaust visible underneath chassis Also no manual shifter, but 3 pedals? Found Tetsuya Tada walking around the Toyota booth and got about a minute of his time before he had to go. He didn't spill any beans to my questions, but said I wouldn't be disappointed if I liked the MK4. So still anyone's guess

It's a bit of a squeeze but it can be removed without needing the jack the car up.

Seems like the racing version rather than the road going version is going to be on display. I'm going to geneva so I shall see what I can do about getting up close and personal with it.

Sweet thats gonna be a nice addition!

Interesting choice in pants

I drove my W58 with different setups ranging from 250-350 ft.lbs estimated for a good 10'000 miles if not more. Then killed it once I went to the 450-470 ft.lbs region. I've seen some boxes go with less torque, others with more. Impossible to say what they safe limit is. Reality is you may get lucky, you may not, either way it's a ticking time bomb. Eventually you will want more power and that 58 is going to go bang. Most alternative gearbox solutions are going to set you back a few grand minimum, so it's a fair chunk of change to throw at it. I've fitted and driven a number of manual boxes and I rate them as follows: 1. V160/V161 (obviously) 2. R154 3. 350z CD009 Nissan Gearbox 4. BMW gearbox swaps There is also T56 conversion, but I've never tested one so can't comment on it yet. You can't beat the original daddy v160/161 imo. The further down the list you go, the less oemlike the car feels and the more compromises you may have to make. But they are all valid options to replace W58