Mike2JZ

Check the basics. - Make sure coolant system is bled properly and there is adequate coolant in radiator and expansion tank before starting. Bleed system using funnel. Are there signs of oil, smell of fuel or excessive bubbling? - Check that both bottom and top radiator hoses are getting pressurized & hot after a small drive, otherwise thermostat might be sticking. - Check that crank pulley rubber has not come loose. If so it could not be spinning water pump & other auxiliaries as they should be. - Do heater fans blow hot air when warm? Does temperature decrease/stabilize when heaters are on full chat? - Are there any leaks on system? Then move to next level of diagnostics - Do a sniffer test on radiator to test to see if any combustion gases are mixing with coolant. This may give some indication about health of head gasket. - Do a compression test. Are all cylinders running equal, or are two or more significantly lower? - Get a mechanic to do a leak down test on your cylinders. This test should show your coolant system getting pressurized if there is a head gasket issue. At least I'd do all of the above before going and spending money on changing parts when it might not be required.

Got a disposable income? Not anymore you dont hahaha #supralife

Check something in your exhaust system like a backbox or resonator has not collapsed and is not blocking the flow of gases. Excessive back pressure will cause a turbo not to boost as it should.

Hi, This is the vac diagram for an Aristo. Hopefully that helps

On the grey supra interior plug, Pin 7 is NSW/STA trigger. The body loom side of this goes to key barrell, and engine side should connected to fusebox 8 pin plug, pin # 3. Make sure you have connected to correct wire on soarer loom. If not, your starter relay will not activate and car will not crank.

Anyone have a non ABS setup for sale.

You need to be connected to the ECU with a laptop that is 32bit to run the eManage software. Once connected there is a logging feature where you can choose to log multiple variables. The laptop must remain powered on & connected the eManage in order to log. It's as easy as clicking record, and pressing stop when done. But be warned the eManage logging interface is terrible so you will have some fun dispersing whats what.

Got some major dragonball withdraw symptoms now, what a blast that weekend was.

Holla. I got one

Srd

Sell it

I'd only offer 4-5k for that really. Engine and box might be worth 3k/4k, and shell is so mangled that its not really worth a lot

Normally black smoke is an indication of running rich. Grey/Blue smoke would be an indication of burning oil. Where abouts in Kent are you, maybe I can lend a hand.

It is normal for the pressure tank to store some pressure which you can hear when you disconnect a few select lines.

I've got one from a MKIII Supra from Switzerland. Was going to use on mine, but thinking of going for a T56 instead. Want £900 for it

On a stock engine you will be pretty safe if it goes. I've seen a cam pulley come off at high rpm due to loose bolt with no ill effects, new cambelt and car went back out 30 minutes later. Cambelt coming off may damage some of the cambelt cover plastics. You will run into issues of pistons/valves touching with larger lift cams.

Anyone got one in good nick?

The last GT45 ebay turbo I've seen on a 2JZ was hitting boost at 5k, with power coming after. Complete waste of time for a street car in my opinion. If your budget it tight you can try a ebay T4 T70 or GT35 turbo. Both sizes will kick in around 4k. You can also find Borg Warner S300SX3 63mm turbo's on eBay for £575, which is pretty cheap for the performance you will get for your money. Those turbo's will spool in the late 3k to early 4k rpm range. I've been advised recently that if you are running the NA autobox you will be limited to around 300 ft.lbs of torque before you kill it, regardless of how many coolers you put on it. The TT boxes take more abuse, and I believe DavidP can build you a hybrid autobox good for even more power if you bring him the right bits. You can achieve 450hp on an unopened 2JZGE but you will be starting to reach the limits of knock on regular pump fuel at that sort of level. Advisable to put a TT headgasket and/or TT pistons into the engine to drop compression. Or start running meth injection/knock resistant fuels. The distributor ignition system is a point of failure for sure, but there are a few guys running 400-500 NA-T's with distributor. See if you can get away with it on yours before upgrading.

a01b = 4.1 ratio a02b = 3.7 ratio So if you want slightly longer gears/higher top speed then go to A02B.

Tcbparts do a nice alternator for 120

Part box UK has them

Normally I go: Sandwich Plate > Remote Filter > Cooler > Sandwich plate Better to have filtered oil going to cooler rather than unfiltered incase you get any crud going into cooler.

Ah yiiiis. Can't wait to see the results of this