Mike2JZ

Did you drive the car around before testing the upper and lower rad hoses? Sometimes just having the car idling and bleeding won't get the thermo completely open. I normally get the system bled, then go for a quick drive then check the operation of thermostat.

It will fit on the powersteering pump no problem, but will foul on the inlet manifold. Usually only run NA pumps on some aftermarket intake manifolds.

Email received, can't wait. Hopefully it's got an engine in it this time

Get someone to check the Main EFI Relay output with a volt meter. If it dosent drop to 0 volts when you turn key to "off", then you have wired something thats providing voltage to that relay. Sounds like maybe your EFI relay isn't turning off, but your fuel pump is which is why engine keeps running until enough pressure out of rail drops that injectors have no more fuel to play with.

super cheap , someone will get a good deal

Not sure about what pressures they are fully open, but had a TT with similar symptomes due to IACV VSV being broken

I'd like to come!

Hi, I've only got the parts listed in the opening posts sorry.

Edit: Yes I do actually, pm me

Buy an AVA radiator which is an oem replacement from TCBParts. They are much better value and outperforms mishimoto ones.

When was the last time you refreshed your spark plugs?

From a fueling perspective alone, the UK's are better equipped for 1.2 Bar +, given they have a highflow fuel pump and 550 injectors. Most Jspecs I've played with using a standalone showing that the 440 injectors are starting to reach 90-100% duty cycle around 1.2 bar, which isn't ideal in the longrun. You should be able to hit 400hp/420 ish ft.lbs at the flywheel with 1.2 Bar + on a healthy UK spec imo

On a stock ECU you must run a narrowband for the ECU to be able to have any closed loop control of fuel trims. You may add a wideband, however the stock ECU will not interface with the wideband. The wideband in this instance is under manual user monitoring to decide if the engine is running to lean or rich. On a standalone ECU it is usually expected that you will run a wideband sensor rather than a narrowband as your Oxgen/Fuel ratio source. Usually because the wideband has more resolution (0.5 to 1.5 Lambda) than a narrowband and is a bit quicker to react. I have yet to come across a situation where I need a narrowband instead of a wideband. I would say for most Supra's going standalone, the stock narrowband sensor becomes obsolete and is ok to unplug/delete etc. That said, most standalone's will support the use of a narrowband sensor, but again I have not seen many cases where this is the preferred option. I've noticed that more modern performance cars are coming equipped with multiple wideband sensors from the factory.

Yes, sorry forgot to specify that everything is from a prefacelift shell. Shoot me a PM and I'll send you payment details.

Bonnet Hinges - £20 Boot trim - £5 Rear wheelwell trim = £15 LH + RH Rear Brake Duct Grill & Rubbers £30

Scrapped a shell a while ago, here's some random bits from it that someone might want. Price does not include shipping. Heater/AC Unit. Has some damage to plastics - £100 Driver Door. No major dents in it, but will need some bodywork/paint - £50 Dash Crash Bar - £30 Fuel Tank Cover - Needs some TLC due to corrosion. £40 NOW SOLD Steering Wheel Assembly + Ignition/Key Barrel - £100 NOW SOLD Rear Boot Lock & Mechanism - £10 NOW SOLD Passengerside Wing Mirror with damage - £15 Passengerside Door Handle - £10 Washerbottle Res + Filler + Pump - £35 Rear Boot plastic intact - £20 Front undertray/wheel arch plastics - £20/e NOW SOLD Rear Quarter Speaker Covers - £10

I have mapped a few TT's to run sequential using Link ECU. I can supply a file with the sequential logic if needed. You will need to do some wiring to get VSV's working on a P&P unit though

If the car is NA then you won't get much better MPG putting on an ECU. That said, you can get an LPG conversion kit and run the car on that. LPG is about half the price of petrol and you get similar performance.

From low RPM you have 6 cylinders feeding exhaust gases to the first turbo up until the EGBV and IACV flaps open. Once those valves open you have a situation where the first 3 cylinders are working the first turbo, and the second 3 cylinders work the second turbo. The only other major component is the WG actuator on the first turbo which dictates the amount of boost allowed to either/both of the turbo's.

Slave cylinder found here: https://importcarparts.co.uk/parts?cat=89&sub=1354&sec=1563&var=50&dc=y Master cylinder here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-NEW-TOYOTA-SUPRA-93-96-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-31410-24050-JZA80/263241859351?epid=645915188&hash=item3d4a700117:g:ckIAAOSwu0JZ0kcn

Nothing more than trying to make a quick buck by exploiting the image of a star car. Won't be the first or the last time we see this.

So whilst I was out in switzerland last I managed to source an R154 through a friend that I put in the boot of the car whilst limping the car home. The box was out a MKIII Supra so the bellhousing was wrong, and shifter would need to be extended. The box was also missing a shifter and shifter rod, the latter being discontinued. Thought I'd try and be a smart ass and buy a broken chaser R154 so I could get the bellhousing and use the shifter mechanism on the gearset from the MKIII box. To make a long story short, there is quite a big difference between the 5th/reverse shaft on both boxes. Me and a friend were able to get the chaser shifter mechanism working on the MKIII box but 5th gear was not selectable without making a pretty major modification to the box. I opted out of this just in case I ended up with two paperweights. So we put the boxes back to how they were originally. I was able to get the bits I needed for the MKIII box from driftmotion, and all I need to do is extend the shifter housing when they get here and I'll have an R154 to use. Also went balls out on a new twin plate clutch that comes with a flywheel, and converts the box to a push type setup. Kit is rated to 900ft.lbs of torque, which is more then I will ever make probably. So now that engine and box is almost there, I went back to getting the car looking a bit nicer. Spent a few days sanding/prepping my shell and try to get it ready for a new lick of super white 040 paint. Luckily I had a paint buddy who was able to get my car painted the same night I dropped the car off and prepped it for him. Finally after how many years this car will all be one colour. Went with 2K Paint rather than traditional paint as I don't want a showroom quality paintjob, just a freshen up that I won't feel too bad about getting damaged whilst driving the car like a loon. Will have the other panels painted sometime this week, then I can begin piecing the car back together hopefully in time for some track action at brands hatch on 24th june.

Been a bit quiet recently whilst saving up for the next stage, but starting to make some progress now. Whilst everything was out, thought I'd pull apart the engine and just check everything was in good nick and see if I could figure out what was causing the off throttle smoking. Everything looked in good nick. Until I found that I had put one of the secondary compression rings on piston #4 upside down. So that ring was working more like an oil pump rather than scraping excess oil away. Ring gaps are also a little looser than I wanted, so better start saving for some forged pistons soon. Checked the bearings whilst I was down there and happy to see no major signs of wear or oil contamination. Changed a few gaskets and bolted her back togther Friend told me I could use his borg warner s472 turbo which sounded like a great idea, but after a few weeks of pondering I decided against it and ordered a brand new borg warner s360 t4 .88 AR I quite liked the response of my last turbo and this one has similar dimensions, but I'd feel more confident running a lot more boost through this. With engine back together, I moved back to the car and started stripping engine bay for paint. Should have the battery and fusebox relocated to the back of the car, might also delete the ABS if I can get the right lines & cylinder in time.

1000-1100 injector will cover you on pump fuel and injectors from ID or ASNU will have the car idling and running like it's running on stock injectors. If you plan on running ethanol for that sort of power or more then you will need larger injectors.

Do you plan on running pump fuel or e85 to hit your 800hp target?