Mike2JZ

Nothing, just cover postage and I can get a few in a small envelope to you.

I've got loads of spare injector connectors, can send you one if it helps. I can't imagine the outside of the plug connector causing issues, unless it's causing the pins inside to be dislodged, not making contact or both pins contacting each other.

I'm about 10 minutes down the road from the last place you visited. Let me know if you want to come down and ill shoot you a postcode Also what spark plugs, and spark plug gaps are you running?

Got loads of spare coil packs you can try. Is it happening at low boost/high boost or all the time?

I got my last one from Garage D, might be worth contacting them in case they still have one

Temperature is a bit colder now, maybe your cold start settings need work. See how much fuel is being added when engine is cold, and see as ECT increases if this added fuel tapers off. Normally when an oxygen sensor is on the way out I've seen them either go really erratic on AFR, or they tend to stick really rich or lean and can throw you off. If you have a closed loop AFR system enabled, check to see if its fighting to either add or remove fuel as it's constantly out of range With engine off and ignition on, use Syvecs to test output to each injector. Can you hear each solenoid click? Do a quick test whilst car is idling, choose the cells that are being used and take -15% fuel out. If your AFR dosen't change then you know you probably have a sensor issue.

Whifbitz is probably your closest specialist for that.

GE Fan Blade is on left, GTE fan blade it on right. GTE has different fan blade style and offset from viscous is different. GE fan blade will rub blade on GTE upper water neck

If the car is already manual, and you have the correct parts for everything to bolt in place then it won't take longer than 3-4 hours to convert to R154. Other than having to change flywheel you basically follow the same procedure as changing a clutch on a W58/V160. From experience, you get much less hassle using an R154 from a chaser that has a remote shifter, vs a MKIII box with extended shifters.

I've installed a few R154's into mkiv's. Bill normally comes to £2500-4000 depending on what box/clutch combo you go with. And if the car has been converted from an auto, and needs pedals/manual tunnel/dials etc.

Lovely looking Supra

SOLD Stripped the interior out my car a while back, have these two parts for anyone looking to convert from grey/creme interior to black. Carpet has a tear on passenger side, not really visible and sits under floor mat. Could do with a wash but in good nick otherwise. Headlining & visors is in really good nick Carpet: £150 + post Headlining = £175 + post Collect from Sandwich, Kent

Damn that looks suuuper clean. Nice buy! I'm sure that will be a blast

Solenoids on gearbox were getting stuck. Idle control valve was also not reacting accordingly/consistently either. Put new box and IACV in and both issues resolved.

Put car in TTC mode. If you get boost across both turbo's then you know you are dealing with either a plumbing or VSV issue.

For a healthy road going engine you don't really want to see more than 1-15% leak on each cylinder. Anything more could indicate a loss of performance on that cylinder. Considerably high leakage (40%+) could indicate inproper sealing from rings/valves/headgasket etc. Engine breathing isn't necessarily a sign of damage or anything to be concerned about btw. Results from compression/leak down and your average oil consumption is more of an indication of engine health imo.

Check that your exhaust backbox baffles have not collapsed and causing excess back pressure.

Straight pipe cars in general will smell of fuel.

If it's a solid flywheel, then there should be no movement at all. Sounds like something isn't right

Here's how you measure your flywheel movement.

Usually the shortest routing for vac/boost lines is preferred, thus why some turbo's have a vac port built into compressor housing, as they are nearer to waste-gate than the inlet manifold. You can easily drill and tap a vac line fitting if needed. If you aren't up for drilling & tapping a vac line on the compressor housing, then the best thing is you can run a vac line(s) from the inlet manifold down to your wastegate(s). Your vac line from the inlet manifold/source point needs to be connected to the bottom port on your external wastegate. With just this hose connected, you will be able to run the wastegate at their base spring pressure. If you want to add boost control, then you need to hookup the top port of the external wastegate to the correct port on your boost controller.

I used to have a similar side to side feeling on mine. The balljoint was still in good service, but the two rubber wishbone bushes were gone. Once I replaced them with polybushes I haven't had another issue since.

If you are running with a MAP sensor, then there is no risk of you having unmetered air causing the ECU load signal to go lean. So catch can plumbing is irrelevant. In the event that your PCV is borked, and allowing a massive boost leak then your manifold pressure will drop accordingly under boost. Perhaps into an unmapped area, thus causing the lean. But if your boost levels has not changed then I doubt this scenario is happening.

Get a fuel pressure tester on the car, you will see quickly if you have a fuel supply issue under boost. Pressure should rise almost 1:1 will boost pressure if using factory FPR. If you are having a fuel supply issue then check that your pump is not dropping voltage under boost. If it is, then you need to redo the wiring / bypass FPC using 12v mod etc. If you don't have a fuel supply issue but are still leaning then chances are you are at your injectors limit. Factory 330's are not going to support much boost. Your tuner should be able to confirm what duty cycle your injectors are running at, assuming you are running a standalone. Catch can should make 0 difference to your engine's air/fuel ratio.

I give it 6 months before you want another