Mike2JZ

1) I would pull the speed sensor and confirm that the cog has the same amount of teeth as that of the NA/TT Supra boxes. The frequency has to be the same between the two otherwise you will hit issues. 2) Pulling wheel speed off ABS sensor is also not going to work. ABS rings have a lot of teeth hence frequency is really high on them. You would require to run an intermediary box in order to interpret that signal and output a signal that the speedo can accept. 3) Check another combination meter, check your's isn't faulty.

What gearbox are you using?

Normally on the Supra you have the gearbox speed signal which goes directly to combination meter. From there, the signal gets distributed to ODO & ECU SP1 Speedo will work regardless of what ECU sees if you wire it up in a similar fashion.

I've played with MKIII and Chaser R154's but not JZX110. If you can take some measurements I can confirm with the ones I've got

I've got one, £30 + post

Sorry to see this, I've got a rear quarter panel in red in case thats of any use to you

I can't seem to recall off the top of my head. Easiest way to find out will be pulling the ecu harness through the firewall, then carefully cutting away loom tape until you can find what you are after.

In the passengerfoot well, there is a grey plug that is attached to the engine harness. Pin #9 (orange/black) is the 12v feed to injectors This wire then splits into 6 wires that feed to each injector. On each injector there is also a signal (ground) wire that goes directly to ECU. Below is wiring diagram for JSPEC

is it on the same cylinder again or has another injector shit the bed

On the NA, there is a water hose from the rear of the engine that connects to the throttle body. Sometimes this hose gets loose and leaks coolant which goes directly onto the exhaust heat shield and starts smoking.

Looks like a similar throttle body yes. In the end I had to make a new mount for TPS to sit on so it wouldn't have any flex/rotation, as well as recalibrating the TPS in the ECU. Whilst connected to DET 3 Where I've highlighted the red, you should be able to see the live reading of your TPS. I would check this first and make sure that the second you touch that throttle you are getting a smooth input here. If the TPS reading is not instant or replicating what you are doing with the throttle, then definitely need to re calibrate. Where I've highlighted in yellow is where you can re calibrate the TPS. Furthermore, if you can't get the TPS sorted for whatever reason then you can try disabling the over run fuel cut by playing with a combo of the following settings:

I've seen something similar before, it wasn't on a DET 3 piggyback, but maybe problem is the same. There was an NA-T that had a TPS dodgily mounted to a ebay front facing intake. The TPS would rotate very slightly on it's mount which caused the TPS calibration on the ECU to fall out of sync. This meant that when the driver put low throttle on the pedal, the TPS was not actually registering any movement. When the RPM went over a certain level, the ECU would think that the engine was in over run (no throttle, coasting, 0% TPS) and would cut fuel to the injectors. You would drive along and the car would constantly cut out. If you planted it the TPS would register something and over run would not kick in. If you can connect to DET 3 in realtime, maybe check to see what TPS value you are getting.

If this is an AEM gauge then the -- reading means max lean. Usually from injectors cutting out, I normally see the reading on overrun. First question. Has this piggyback ever worked properly, or is this the first time you are trying it and having this issue, or was it fine and this issue developed randomly?

Just looked through the config file and went through log again. I'm not a syvecs wizard by any means, but I couldn't spot anything in relation to cold start, closed loop fuel control or fuel corrections that looked out of place. Comparing the logic of settings versus what's being shown on the log, it seems that most systems are reacting as they should. With the variables available in the log I cannot find anything that is instigating an increase of fuel either. Throughout the log there are sporadic moments where it gets rich. At which point the closed loop fuel control turns off as the lambda readings goes beyond the control limit for the CLL system. Once the lamda sorts itself out moments later then all other system resumes as they should. Also interesting to note that the closed loop system, whilst enabled is constantly trying to remove fuel, but seems like the requested amount of fuel to be removed is not being reached. Here you can see the random increases in lambda. I think this may be a hardware related issue.

Sure, send it in a PM if you like

In the graph above it shows that the Closed loop system is active, regulating the lambba around 0.90. The final value sent to injectors in this area is around 2.3/2.4. Then for some reason the closed loop system becomes disabled, and the signal to injectors increases to 2.9/3.0, and your lambda drops to 0.72. You can also see a small blip where the closed loop fuel system kicks back in, and the lambda raises, before being disabled again and lambda drops again. Without seeing map config file, it's hard to say what the condition for closed loop system are. But if you can figure out why closed loop is being disabled and re-enabled, then might lead in the right direction. If this lambda sensor is to be believed, then it looks like the rich condition is being induced from ECU rather than hardware.

Just looking over that log and it seems that both your Intake Air 1 & 2 signals are reading a constant 50 degrees C, just a flatline. All other temperature signals seem to be rising as expected as engine warms up. Perhaps this is a contributing factor

Can you post a log from your Syvecs showing the warm up before going rich?

You hit boost/fuel cut. Basically if your turbo creates more boost than expected the stock ECU will cut power. To counter this, you may need a HKS FCD

The factory wastegate VSV controller is the blue VSV as follows: Assuming you are using a P&P ecu that uses this VSV's wiring for boost control, then you need to cut the plug end off, and wire the two wires to your 3 port boost controller. It does not matter what the orientation of the wires are

What plugs are you running, and what have you gaped them too? Any idea on what your air fuel ratio is whilst boosting at 1.7 bar? Any idea what fuel pressure you are running during boost?

UK Spec should be the same as Euro/US Spec camshafts, in which case the following specs: JSpec/ US spec Intake lift (mm) 7.80/ 8.25 Intake duration (deg) 224 / 233 Intake Open BTDC (deg) 3 / 3 Intake Close ABDC (deg) 41 / 50 Intake Centre ATDC (deg) 109 / 113 Exh lift (mm) 8.4 / 8.4 Exh duration (deg) 236 / 236 Exh Open BBDC (deg) 52 / 52 Exh Close ATDC (deg) 4 / 4 Exh Centre (deg) 114 / 114 Overlap (deg) 7 / 7 You have a difference on intake side, but it's pretty minor. Physically you can bolt the cams in no problem, just be sure to check valve clearances.

Depending on how aggressive the camshafts are, you can get away with running 264's for example on factory valvetrain components (springs, retainers etc). However, 264 camshafts will change the volumetric efficiency of your engine at both the low/top end. This change will affect your fueling requirements of the engine. You may find that the stock ECU handles the cams without much hiccup or you may find that it struggles to idle, cold starts etc. Once it's back together I'd get it on a dyno, or get an AFR meter and check that your aren't having any major fueling inconsistencies. Luckily, stock ECU runs rich, so you should have enough fueling headroom under boost with mild cams. Hard to say without seeing but if the spun bearing did enough damage to take the cams out, then I'd make the assumption that the cam journals in the head are also fubared, which is much more of an issue than the cams. Maybe have that checked too. Normally going one size up on pistons only increases displacement a touch so would not expect any running issues on factory ecu from this.

I wouldn't really run upgraded camshafts if you are still on the stock ecu. Whats wrong with your current camshafts?

If you upgrade to a single using parts that you can revert back to stock, then you can entertain the idea of putting it back to stock one day if value is something in the back of your mind