Mike2JZ

When you lift off, the ECU will cut fuel to injectors whilst you are in over run until you next re-apply throttle. Hence why your gauge reads --- (super lean), as there is no fuel being supplied. This is normal behavior. If you are experiencing rich or lean spots when coming off the throttle or when going on throttle sharply, then this can also be considered somewhat normal. It usually takes 1-2 seconds for a gauge to stabilize after a sharp change in throttle. 4 seconds seems strange however. 16.25 on idle seems a tad high. IIRC you recently had bigger pistons and cams? put in, this will affect your engine's VE and change fuel requirements, so the fuel that the computer is expecting to put in may not be 100% suitable for your new setup. 16 on idle won't be the end of the world though. So long as you aren't reading lean on boost then shouldn't be an issue. Fuel cut defenders can also mess around with AFR's depending on how they fudge the map signal. Some wideband sensors require free air calibration before installation. Could also be a calibration issue throwing off AFR's. RPM point for your boost controller can be tapped into from the ECU using either pins IGT or IGF depending on what signal the controller needs.

Don't worry guys, speedo is off by 10%. Definitely doing the speed limit throughout that video

Check your coilpack clips, check your spark plugs aren't fouled. Check your igniter is in good order ECU is fine probably. Sometimes when ECU's die you don't get the EML warning showing, but if yours appears then should be ok. EDIT: Don't suppose you jump started the car after it's been sitting? If you get terminals the wrong way round you can burn out igniter

ECU is dead. Either from faulty wiring or motherboard has blown a resistor of some sort. Your lights on dash could also be suffering from cold solder.

HKS Fine Tune V Belt are auxiliary belts in blue.

Great video! Proper supra there, love it.

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1995/supra/jza80-alfqz/4_291130_004_/tool-engine-fuel/1603_radiator-water-outlet

I've used kings, but much prefer Clevite/Mahle. Quality is much better imo

Updated first post with items that have sold. Price drop on remaining items.

Assemble o-rings onto injector, put some lube then slot the injector into the rail. Sometimes need to twist them on the way in for them to slide in correctly.

Yes...

Common place is next to where the stock fuel filter sits.

Irelands version of MOT

You shouldn't have any fuel pressure issues using 2 485 pumps using that setup. If we are being really anal, ideally you would run twin feeds straight from your tank, but sometimes the extra cost isn't worth it depending on requirements.

You will want a fuel rail that uses -8an if you are planning on using ethanol. From your -8an feed from pump, you can get an -8an T piece that will allow you to run two -8an lines to either end of your fuel rail. The -6an return would then lead to your FPR. Your FPR output should then go to your flex sensor, and the output of that goes to your tank. There's quite a few decent FPR's out there these days. Personally I've used AEM, Turbosmart, HKS, Aeromotive and never really had an issues, that said I don't tend to run e85 a lot so maybe someone has some good recommendations for that. Just don't use a replica FPR cause they always fail. In terms of sensors, I believe Syvecs sell fuel pressure sensors.

Make sure your bulbs are tightened in place correctly. They help form a seal

If you are going for a nice fuel system don't forget to include some cash for an uprated fuel pressure regulator that is alcohol resistant and flows enough for your goals. Setting up your fuel rail to use a twin feed/1 return is also a good idea. Whilst you are at it, be sure to also include a fuel pressure sensor so you have some visibility over your fuel system status and can setup a limp home strategy in the event of a pump failure/blockage etc via your ECU.

10 points for correct answer

There's one here: http://www.gramsstyling.co.uk/shop-2/supra-g-r-a-m-s-wide-bodykit/ Looks a bit special though.

Got quite a bit of interest on these. Going by who replied or messaged me for them, you are second in line. Will get in contact if Drew dosen't want them. I believe thats everything, dosent have any pedals etc. Sure driverside non aero. Shoot me a PM Good eyes, offers accepted if anyone wants these.

Sure drop me a PM Thats the floor mat. I can get you photos of the skirts but will have to be early next week, just finishing up holiday aboard and back this weekend.

Recently have been helping a non forum member break his supra for parts and sell his shell. Asked if I can put his parts up for sale on behalf of him. Collection from Sandwich, Kent. Prices do not include postage. Postage will need to be quoted. Prices open to close offers. Whifbitz Sidemount Intercooler Kit - Used but still vgc - £200 SOLD eBay Supra Intercooler Kit - BNIB - £120 SOLD Twin Turbo's - Unknown Condition/Mileage etc - £75 SRD Undertray - Used - £100 SOLD BMW M3 Gearbox - Used - £600 - M3 420 6 Speed Gearbox, Propshaft to Suit MKIV Supra, - Gearbox mount, Short shifter, release bearing, slave cylinder - PMC Flywheel & Adapter Plate SOLD - Sachs Racing Motorsport Clutch Kit rated to 780nm+ SOLD Assortment 1 Facelift Headlights (Cloudy) - £300 SOLD Washer Resevoir - £30 SOLD Battery Tray - £10 Battery Hold - £5 ABS Pump & Brake Lines - £30 Wiper Mechanism - £10 Bonnet Release Mechanism - £20 Facelift Style front indicators (non oem) - £20 Brake Booster Hardline + Vacuum hose - £10 Front Tow Hook - £10 SOLD Assortment 2 Rear OEM Spoiler - £30 SOLD Front Lip (Fiberglass + Damaged) - £20 SOLD Whifbitz Heater Hoses - £20 440cc Injectors + Rail - £25 Door Handles - £35 Mirrors LH + RH - £100 SOLD OEM Aero Sideskirts (Fiberglass) has some cracks - £70 SOLD Footwell Carpet - £20 Assortment 3 LH + RH Door Sill Trims - £30 LH + RH Kickpanels - £40 Rear Boot Plastics Set - £120 SOLD A Pillar Trim - £20 Driverside Wheel Arch - £30 SOLD Dash Panel Set - £100 SOLD Assortment 4 Boot Rubber - £20 LH + RH Metal Door Trims - £30 LH + RH Door to Window Trims - £20 SOLD Offer for any of the other rubbers you may need. Link ECU - £850 - Link ECU Storm Wire In (Unused) - Unfinished wiring loom for Supra to run single turbo + R8 coils. Has interior plugs and power to coils/fusebox already. Needs 1-2 sensor connectors and sleeving. SOLD Japspeed Single Turbo T4 Manifold New & Unused - £250 eBay T4 Cast Turbo Manifold - £60

Usually when you change timing belt, it is the best time to also change the water pump. When cambelt is on, you cannot get water pump off. The water pump is driven by the drive belt though, not the cambelt. So it seems like your Toyota dealer was planning on servicing the cambelt & water pump whilst it was easiest to do so. If water pump has only done 15'000 miles then should be ok to keep using, normally bad water pump can be seen from leaking coolant, noisy bearing etc. If you want to change water pump in future, then cambelt will have to come off. Any part that will need to be removed to get cambelt changed is the crank pulley. If this has never been removed then you might want to put a new one on as they have a habit of splitting.

You can buy facelift looms for indicators, or modify the pre facelift ones to work.

JW Engineering in Bexleyheath are my go to for custom props.