Mike2JZ

Yeah anything north of 45k is strong money for the market at the minute, so wouldnt think too hard on that one.

Bit of a marmite car as its fairly hardcore. I'd probably start around 40-45k and see if you get any bites.

looks mint

Blue/Red & Black/Red or Blue/Red & Blue/Orange depending if NA or TT Wires found on fuel pump ecu plug

Avoid maxspeeding; awful Chinese crap with bad machining and tolerances. Rather a used set of GTE rods any day of the week

You can use non VVti engine loom with whatever standalone ECU of your choice then add the VVti wiring in an auxiliary loom and connect to ECU that way

I think the real question is how hot is scorching hot? most single turbo setups have really hot engine bays, so if you are driving around in the middle of summer then it’s expected.

Probably best to take it to your tuner and get them to connect and diagnose rather than spending £500 on a cable

Hmm ok, can you get a log of It stuttering and send to me. Will take a look

What ECU is this on?

If you are struggling I can remote in and see if I can assist, sounds like you have other issues other than fuel pump

Whats the latest postmortem? Is pump dead, or fuse and wiring knackered as well? Random stab in the dark, are you building lots of pressure in the fuel tank? Do you get a large pressure release when you undo the fuel filler cap?

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Lee can get them, might even have one in stock still

you can buy them new if you cant find one used

Don’t let your dreams be dreams

15-20min

That clicking is typically from the auxillery tensioner itself rather than the bearing. But if you take aux belt off and spin the wheel by hand you can determine if bearing is bad. Normally if the bearing is bad then you will feel a lot of side to side movement on it.

This guy

Auxillery Tensioner most likely. Had a few squeak like that when they are knackered whilst idling. If you look closely, you can see it jumping around, shouldnt do that

If the pump is on but cant build pressure just check rubber hose inside fuel tank hasnt ripped. If the pump dosent run at all then probably faulty

Use what your suppliers wants then?

A couple of years ago I went to solid rear diff mounts without doing the same to the front mounts. Chris Wilson advised that this was going to cause an issue and a few week later I broke the casing during a burnout. After that I went back to poly rear mounts and never had another problem, so you might have something similar going on. So either change the rear mounts or change the fronts to solid as well.

Normally run engine in using mineral oil 10w40 or Motorsport Competition Running In Oil from Millers. Typically limit the RPM on the engines whilst using this oil dand dont get the oil super hot (110C+) for prolonged periods.

Hi, Have the following from my car up for sale so I can fund a more ridiculous transmission, so get yourself a deal. All the following parts will come together as a full plug and play kit for mkiv supra with a JZ engine and has everything you need regardless if you are converting from a manual or auto setup. My aim with this set of parts was to be able to hold north of 1000hp with a similar amount of torque, which they have all been able to do with ease on my last setup. Whilst I started my new project on the Supra, I sent the transmission back to PGS in Finland for a service checkover. Whilst there I had a few gears replaced with the new "HD Formula" gears which are a bit beefier and have some treatments on them compared to the "HD" gears. Gearbox was assembled balanced and clearanced by PGS, and has done 0 miles since the service so fresh and ready for the next owner. Gear ratio's of box are the same as OEM R154, I would pair this with 3.7 Ratio diff for best balance or 3.2 Diff if you have lots of power and want lots of top end speed. Gearbox is noisier than a stock R154, but as the gears are helical cut you dont get the crazy gearbox whine of a straightcut gearset, so you wont go deaf if driving a long distance. As there are no synchros the shifting on this box can be extremely fast. You can still drive it around and use a clutch between gear shifts like a normal box if you are poodling around or if you setup flat foot shifting then you can keep the throttle pinned through gearshifts and have the ECU cut enough power momentarily to allow the box to slide into next gear. I've recorded shifts as fast at 70ms using this method. Clutch pedal is super light on this setup and clutch plates can be slipped easily. Certainly grabbier than an OEM clutch but its not an on/off switch, can get decent clutch slippage and modulation. Clutch has done around 1000miles and has plenty of life left in it, so wont have to look into servicing that anytime soon. Parts Included: R154 Late Tripod Style Casing from JZX100 PGS HD & HD Formula Mix Gearset rated for 1400nm of torque MKIV Supra OEM Crossmember & OEM Gearbox mount SRD HD Propshaft W58 Shifter (will also provide the R154 shifter as a spare) Solid Shifter Bushings OEM Gear speed sensor OEM W58 Tunnel Rubber/Cover KTY23680-2E 230mm Twin Ceramic rated for 1800nm of torque - Includes Flywheel, ARP Flywheel Bolts & Concentric Slave cylinder setup. OEM Clutch Master cylinder + Clutch Line Price = £6500 ono Collection from SRD, or can quote to get everything on a pallet delivered. Quick video so you can see some shifting and noise from the setup.