Mike2JZ

Located in the main fusebox you will find a relay called Main EFI. On a TT Supra there is Main EFI 1 & Main EFI 2. On an NA supra there is only Main EFI 1. EFI 2 is a dedicated relay for the fuel pump, wheras on NA supra the fuel pump ECU is fed from EFI1. In the case of MainEFI1, on the stock wiring loom this will power your ECU, Sensors, IACV, VSV's, VVTI etc. Basically anything that needs a 12v switched source whilst engine is running. I recommend you reuse this system as it works fine, never had any reason to deviate to another power source for these items. On a custom harness, you will need to wire the output of this relay to ECU & sensors that you require. Additionally, you will need to wire in a trigger to get this relay to activate whilst you have the key on ACC & START (Crank). On the orange 36pin interior plug from engine harness, pin #13 is a ignition switched power that sends 12v whilst the key is in ACC & Crank. Connect this pin to the wire that used to go to ECU M-REL. For the fuel pump, unless you plan to reuse the factory fuel pump ECU, you will want to run a ground switched (ECU activated) relay to switch power from the fusebox (EF1 or 2) to the fuel pump. If you look at the plug on your fuel pump ECU you will see a fat blue wire and a fat blue/red wire. The blue wire will be your 12v feed from the fusebox, blue/red will be your output wire from relay to fuel pump. If you only have EFI1, and feel like you could do with another relay for dedicated fuel pump power supply, then you can add EFI2. There is some info on how you can do this to main fusebox here Additionally, if you are doing a custom loom I would recomend you study this page. Wilbo666 2JZGE Engine Wiring. Even though this is the wiring for a 2JZGE, I would say 95% of the interior plug pins, and fusebox pins are very similar across TT, facelift etc, so will be useful to you if this is the first time you are doing a loom.

SRD have them

I've seen some alternators only show signs of charging issues once loaded, prompting the warning lights to appear before disappearing again. They are fine cruising, idling etc, but once you give it the beans and get higher in the rpm then the failure shows itself. Check that the main alternator wire is not loose and the alternator plug is intact and does not have bad frayed wires. If thats all good then maybe try borrowing an alternator to see if issue goes away.

2JZ VVTi's use toyota drive by wire to control idle, so no IACV

Nice boot looks much nicer with it cleaned!

I've fitted a few clutches to R154 setup. I would say the most stock feeling pedal with easy engagement is Spec clutches.

Usually the noise of your driveline coming to a stop when engine is turned off. Normal to hear on a TT6 Edit: You may also hear the IACV motors reset when engine is turned off. Sounds like a buzzing noise. This happens for a few seconds, so next time you start the car the IACV is able to give correct airflow into engine to allow start up & idle.

What radiator do you have? Have seen similar happening with mishimoto rad before

Open diff supra with a turbo is an accident waiting to happen. Much prefer the back end to hook with an LSD. Definitely an improvement. I concur with melonmans testing of the diff

You will want an s362 or larger to make 600bhp without having to run crazy boost. 0.88 (open) or 0.91 (divided) AR housing will be fine for this. Japspeed manifold are ok to a point but suffer from boost creep with a big enough turbo. Personally I'd go 6boost or Walton manifold, 50mm or larger wasgate. The latest gen turbosmart gates are good, running this combo on mine with no boost creep issues. Emu black is fine too. Just make sure you wire it in correctly and put as many safety sensors as you can.

Vipec is now Link ECU. Their V88 plug and play for supra is similar to the offering from Link ECU. Still quite a capable ECU. Like the Link ECU, out of the box the plug and play ecu will not support sequential twin turbo operation, but it will support TTC or Single turbo. If you want to run sequential turbo's on a plug and play, then check out this guide I wrote a while back. Pinouts and functionality should be similar on Viper board. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?350005-SQ-TTS-Guide-Sequential-TTC-SQ-TTC-Switching-Twins-and-Standalone-ECU

Just wire it straight to the loom, takes 30 minutes. Have some instructions that I found years ago when I wired one in last, check it out here

a) Use a lexus 2j oil filter housing bolt as this comes with a hole for oil pressure sensor pre drilled & tapped. You can then screw a 1/8 BSP -> AN fitting and use that to feed your turbo. b) Run an oil sandwich plate in between oil filter and oil filter hosuing, and run your feed from that. c) Remove the factory oil pressure switch (behind AC compressor), then you can use an 1/8 BSP to AN adapter to feed your single turbo. I've tried all of the above at some point or another and all seem to work. Option a) is the most OEM looking

That part number was valid from 1995 onwards. The part number I linked was in circulation from 93-95. Not entirely sure what the difference may be, if there is any. I'm pretty sure one part number just supersedes the other. Should be fine using either

Intake : 90913-02106 Exhaust: 90913-02088

No. Flanges are different. I have seen TT inlet manifolds that have their runners cut and welded onto NA lower runners, seems to work ok.

Some of the larger sidefeed injectors have been reported to show hot start issues regardless of what ECU they are running on. Might be worth getting some bosch style top feed instead.

Just to add, if you are worried about a responsive turbo creating enough torque to over stress your engine, then you can get your mapper to limit the boost/torque/ignition timing as it ramps in. Imo, even with a mid frame 60mm-ish turbo you generally won't make more torque then whats acceptable as safe for stock block whilst on pump fuel

Have you checked for any stored engine codes? Engine Codes I'm asumming this is on an NA? If so then take a visual check over: a) Is your map sensor still connected? Is the vacuum hose from the inlet still connected to the map sensor? b) Get a timing light on the car and check that your distributor hasn't loosened and is alterating your base timing. c) Check your HT leads are connected in the correct order to your distributor. d) If you don't get an engine management light (yellow engine warning light) then could be a sign of your ECU being on the way out which can cause random issues like this.

This is your second cat.

I normally put around 10-15% gain. Set warning to 1.3 bar, Set limiter to 20%. The only thing left after those settings is your SET value. This changes from car to car, and what weather conditions you are in. Start with set at 30, see what boost that gives you then either reduce or increase depending on how far off from your boost target you are

You should be using a minimum of AN10 for your return line. ID of AN10 is roughly 13mm, so at minimum hole should be that much. Usually I drill the whole area out

There is no such thing as a "remap" on the Supra, like you would on say a modern BMW. There are a few ways around this however: Back in the day there were a select few Japanese tuning companies that could ROM tune the factory ECU, which required certain equipment that is no longer in circulation these days. No one in the UK 25 years later can replicate this service either as far as I'm aware. So no go there, the factory ECU is untouchable in that sense. Typically if you want to make small adjustments to the factory ECU, such as fueling, your best bet would be to wire in a piggyback controller which alters the signals that the ECU sees. This technology is getting on in age now as well, but is proven to work. The other option is to get a standalone ECU, which in my opinion is by far the best solution. The freedom it gives is great, not having to guess what the factory ECU is up to. That said if you have absolutely no intention of ever going for more power, then perhaps piggyback is the best solution. Some piggybacks you can look into Greddy eManage, AEM FIC, EMU DET3, Apexi SAFC. Although the changes to displacement are minor when going to one size up pistons, mixed with camshafts that are slightly more aggressive than what the JSPEC ecu is programmed to deal with, you can potentially run into the situation you are in now. All of the above may be overkill anyway. I'd get your tuner to check that engine is not knocking whilst boosting, and if car drives around fine then you should be good to go.