Mike2JZ

A single 485 is more then enough these days for a big single running pump fuel, especially if you have 1000cc injectors or bigger.

1 seal is for the back of the pump to the block. Two small rings are for the water bypass tube that connects to water pump from upper water neck. Other big ring is thermostat o ring

The two vac ports that go to the cylinder are the hardline feed/return for the sequential turbo pressure tank. If you are going single then no longer needed. Cheap denso injectors are nothing but nightmare in my opinion. Got reliability issues, hot start issues, low throttle issues. They will work, but not trouble free. The fake cheap versions of actual denso's are even worse. For around £500, you will have a much better time using something like these: http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/fic-toyota-supra-2jz-gte-775cc-injectors.html Modern bosch based injectors are awesome. Can get OEM driveability out of 1000cc's or more. They also provide lots of useful injector setup data that your tuner will appreciate if you are using a standalone ECU.

Thats an aristo water pump. Aristo uses a hydrofan setup, so it has a hydraulic port and a solenoid to control hydraulics. Will need whole water pump assembly changed with a supra water pump. Small black sensor is for the dash water temp gauge. Big green sensor is the ECU water temp gauge. Crank pulley bolt take off is anticlockwise. But they are normally a bastard to take off. You will need to lock the crank pulley with a bar so you can get enough leverage on bolt to loosen it. Could also try starter trick to get it off.

I still daily my single turbo supra. Ecowarriors unite!

When you installed it did you keep the matchmarks aligned? Carbon plates don't like to be misaligned as hard for them to wear to new orientation so can cause some vibrations. Twin plates will chatter more than your usual single plate clutch. So if you load up the car in a high gear whilst going slowly then it can be normal to hear chatter. Best to go down a gear. A new carbon clutch is also fairly grabby. Do some more driving on it, after 500-1000 miles you may find that the engagement is easier as everything is bedded in.

It will use stock map sensor out the box. But you will be limited to 1.3 bar ish of pressure before sensor konks out. If you get a Link 3 bar or higher sensor, then you can cut the stock map sensor plug off and wire in 3 wire direct to link map sensor. You need 5v, sensor gnd and signal.

I can offer £12.50. Best price yeah

Out the box the link will work with the two stock knock sensors. I find that if the engine is still stock, with twins then the noise from stock sensors is fairly accurate and ok to use. Once you start doing single turbos, big cams and built engines then I normally use two bosch wideband knock sensors. Bosch sensors are two wire. One wire needs to go to the Knock1 & Knock 2 pins on the Link, then the other wire you will need to connect to sensor ground pin. If you are using shielded wire (recomended), then you will have a third wire for the shield that you can ground to the chassis in the footwell.

My supra brings all the boys to the yard. And they're like, it "is it a manual, turbo supra? And I'm like "nah its a celica gt4"

Something not right there Dave. On our dyno at work I see most s362's doing around 550whp, s366 are usually around the 600whp+ mark. I would expect 369 to do a minimum of 650whp. What A/R housing are you running on it. You definitely using a s369 SXE?

Price drop to £75 inc post. Someone take this before it goes in the bin

Hi, Some early tein suspension for JZA80. Non adjustable height or dampening. Ride height is stock, and springs are quite firm compared to OEM. No knocks or leaks on suspension, but bushes by lower arm are a bit worn now. Still has some life left in it. £165 posted, or £150 collected from SRD

Nice looking setup, digging the screamer pipe. What turbo is it?

Because what you think you feel from the driver seat as being similar to what you remember could be different to what's actually going on. Always better to be sure after applying some science to the situation. As an example I worked on a car yesterday that has been BPU for ages. Driver never mentioned any performance related issue, but as part of diagnosing another issue we put the car on the dyno. After watching air fuel ratios, we saw it was running 13.5:1 afr under full boost at 1.2 bar. Turns out the car needed a new fuel pump. Without having that dyno run or a way to monitor AFR to alert the driver, that engine would of grenaded itself eventually. Now your case is different, I doubt you run the risk of your engine blowing. But it definitely wont be running as efficiently as it could with a drop in compression. I would at the very least take your car to a dyno, get the operator to check AFR's whilst cruising and boosting. If all is well then you wont need to bother with a remap. If the map is out slightly, should take a decent tuner 15 minutes to adjust your fuel map and get everything back on target.

Use an impact screwdriver on the screws. Only way to get them out without rounding. Needs impact force to dislodge them.

What headgasket are you using, what part number. Oem sizes are either 0.3mm (NA) or 1.2mm (TT), it makes a difference. Firing order of all 2J's is 1536254. Compression pressure on most healthy 2JZGTE's with 8:5:1 is going to be in 180psi range. 2JZGE's with 10:1 are in the 200psi range. Couldnt find a better photo online, but these are the two earths you need connected on the inlet. You can just about make out what they look like.

They don't, the equivalent crank & cam sensor signals run through the distributor, but can still fall out of sync if dizzy has problem. Do you have a log of your fuel pressure? Would rule out fuel pump issues etc

What kind of injectors & FPR setup are you running? Did your tuner mention anything about cam/crank sync issues when the issue was occuring? If either of these signals is failing to sync through dizzy then it can cause engine to turn off.

Presumably your air fuel ratio is going rich as this is occurring? Have you got a copy of your map file. Feel free to send my way and I'll check if there is anything obvious map related causing that. Normally above 20psi in have issues with dizzy misfiring, but never had those symptoms. Assuming you havent got any mechanical or tune related issues could be the injector drivers on ECU on the fritz.

And when you say its shutting down. Do you mean misfiring? Or is the engine turning off

What kind of map sensor are you running? Are you still running the dizzy?

In terms of ECU, you can either go with a emanage ultimate piggyback which requires minimal wiring to get you up and running. For a low boost, stock injector setup this is a decent option as a stopgap until you do standalone/manual conversion at some point. If you want to go straight into a standalone then commonly either Syvecs or Link ECU's are used in the UK. Both can be wired up in "piggyback" mode so stock ECU is retained to control autobox but everything else will run through standalone. Not sure if Whifbitz offers a plug and play harness adapter for this, or if they hardwire it in themselves. Either way, it's possible. Probably worth asking them what route they normally do. The whifbitz kit itself is a piece of piss to fit. Hardest bit as mentioned will be drilling the sump for oil return. Everything else is bolt on, assuming you aren't scared of a spanner. Have installed a few of these kits and last one I tuned did 450hp/450 torque at the wheels at 1.3 bar boost. Turbo still had more to go as well, just had issues with dizzy starting to misfire with more boost. So kits more than capable of making power, and so far haven't had any reliability issues with the components of the kit.

Get a timing light and check your ignition timing whilst cranking. Very easy to get dizzy timing off if you have removed cams/cambelt etc. Engine will struggle to fire if dizzy is out. Exhaust not being connected won't make a difference to the car starting. Assuming you have put a TT headgasket into the car? In which case you have changed the VE of the engine. Ideally you need the fuel map looked at, but having less compression will just mean that you will run richer than previously. Again, shouldn't affect the engine starting. If you have a greddy emanage then you should be running a 3Bar Map sensor. Check it's plugged in & vacuum hose is connected.