Mike2JZ

Don't bother with headwork if you are keeping it NA. The gains will be minor. Sticking a simple NA-T conversion on it will wake it up however.

Discontinued from Toyota last I checked. You can get aftermarket ones that fit but they never really perform as well as OEM (IE heater never really feels super warm). Chris Wilson may have been developing/producing a replacement heater matrix, but not sure what ever happened with that.

Check your AC drain pipe is not kinked. This can cause a backup of water which will eventually start seeping out over your interior. Can be found in passenger footwell above ECU, will be a small rubber hose that goes through firewall. Otherwise, start praying its not your heater matrix. Cause thats a fun job

Theres a world outside of Supra's? Dafuq

Steve, its mike from SRD. After reading this thread this morning me and james took your rear lights out to check for any creases or obvious signs of repair work in that area. Everything looks to be in good order. I think the paint is quite thin in the areas by the boot rubbers, so looks like its had some water/muck sat there previously which has brought it up. Compared it with a few other supra's and seemed similar. So shouldn't be anything to worry about

Yes, your NA engine will be ideal donor. You can transfer across your Upper Sump, Lower Sump, Oil pickup, engine mounts, AC compressor and maybe a few other bits that are different on aristo 2jz. You will also need to drill & tap out your NA upper sump using M8 x 1.25, where the oil return for turbo's are, so you can install an oil return flange. If you are staying twin turbo then you will also have the problem of the aristo twins having their turbo return hardlines in a different location (front sump) to the rear sump drain configuration found on the Supra 2J. You can either be a bit of an animal and bend them where they need to go, or source a set from a supra and install those. Wiring loom, I'd recommend buying a 2JZGTE Supra loom. That will make the wiring affair plug and play. If you are really confident and handy with wiring then you can also merge your aristo loom with your NA loom to make it run the new setup. Are you staying with the autobox?

UK supra's are prefacelift. The odo on prefacelift is located on the top part of the dash. Your supra is a facelift vvti jdm model, so odo is built into the speedo. TRD dials come in both prefacelift and facelift versions. So you will need to find the appropriate one for yours.

Ah gutted. Yeah just get a new ecu then. Aemv2 is old shit now anyway

Why not just put the dizzy back in, remove rotor and ht leads. Just use it as your trigger source then run a new loom for smart coils. That's normally how I setup using Link, works great.

Try moving white plug to grey connector as seen below.

1. Blythmrk x2 2. charlton x2 3. MrGRT 4. Supra-love x4 5. Mwilkinson x 2 6. samdale 7. Hamilton 8. Sheefa 9. ShawnPreece x 3 10. Kev.O 11. RobUk 12. djmakz x2 13. Fitz x2^ 14. Mellonman 15. ripped_fear 16. Noz 17. Style 18. Drift_bear x2 19. PJJ 20. Bayside_supra 21. WayneW 22. Mike2JZ

Can you post graph. Be good to get some other NA-T's on dizzy on the forum for other people's reference.

Don't think the ignition system was especially new, just stock leads as well. Put some new NGK BKR8E plugs in before mapping, but had to drop gap to 0.6mm to avoid miss at 1.3 bar. Perhaps with new rotor and beefier leads it would allow for more boost, but prefer the coil route as it allows for per cylinder control due to direct spark.

Engine Type - NA-T Engine Spec - Stock GE, TTHG, ARP Headstuds, 550 Siemens Injector, Whifbitz NA-T Kit, SRD Intercooler, TT Inlet Manifold welded to NA runners. Turbo - BW360 0.88 A/R Fuel Used - Shell Vpower Exhaust - 3'' Transmission - R154 & A01A ECU - Link Mapped By - SRD Dyno Used - SRD Power figure - 450hp @ wheels (~530bhp) Torque figure - 450 ft.lbs @ wheels (~530 ft.lbs fly} Boost Pressure - 1.3 Bar (11.5 AFR) [~80% injector duty] Not my supra, friend of mine who's not on the forum. Results from Whifbitz kit are pretty good though, thought some of the NA-T guys may be interested in what it could achieve. IIRC 1.3 was on the limit of the distributor, anything more would cause misfire so will need coil conversion for more boost. Wastegate Pressure (0.8 bar) 1.3 Bar Comparison

Generally OBD readers don't work with Supra. Most Jspec supra's are Japanese-OBD1 which are next to impossible to connect to unless you have specific gear. Many have tried and failed to connect, and even when you do connect the refresh rate on the data is so slow that it's annoying to read data whilst driving. Late facelift Supra's are OBD2 so you might have some luck with that.

A lot of Supra's have been going into europe recently.

They would as it will still be cheaper then a LHD supra.

Yes go for it

Here are a few things you can check - Do a compression test, confirm engine is healthy - Check the timing belt has been timed correctly. If it's VVTI make sure you have timed the belt using the straight marks rather than the dots. - If you have aftermarket cams/cam pulleys, check they have been shimmed correctly and cam pulleys are set to 0 (change only once tuning if needed). - Check your throttle opens 100%. Sometimes it's possible that throttle system gets stuck on a nearby fuel fitting/fuel hose etc. - If you are using VVTI ethrottle still, then make sure tuner has calibrated ethrottle map to give proper throttle opening. Take intercooler pipe off and check that throttle opens fully. - Smoke/Boost leak check the car. You could have a major boost leak you don't know about. - Check that your ignition system is new. New coilpacks, new coilpack clips, NGK Grade 8 spark plugs or colder. If not, could be experiencing a misfire. - Check your VVTI system is working correctly, solenoid is good, filter is clean etc. Check that the map he has put in for VVTI makes sense. Generally VVT should be aggressive in low rpm's before tapering off by the time you reach high rpm. - Check you have no exhaust blockages. Cats, broken exhaust backboxes, bungs etc. A blockage will lead to higher turbo backpressure strangling your power and causing excessive cylinder heat leading to early onset of det. - Check alternator charging voltage, should be doing 14v on idle and around 13.5 on full boost. - Also not that it should affect your total power output, but denso injectors are shit. Lots of drivability issues from them, especially when they get warm. Might want to put some bosch style injectors on your future wishlist. - Check tuner has calibrated base timing on the ECU correctly. If you have a map file, logs from the dyno and printout of dyno pull then I can investigate the tune further.

I won't, but you need to take Rowlze out for a ride in yours at 1.8 bar. I'll point him in your direction

From an aristo though, wont be plug and play for MKIV supra

Can you take some better photos? We also need to establish if you have a 2JZVVTI GTE loom from an Aristo, or a Supra. It's not really a lot of help if its from an Aristo, and a Supra VVTI loom won't work on a 2JZGE, but it will be worth lots of money, so you could sell and buy the loom you need

I know that feeling, on my third R154 currently If you are using a 420g on an NA lsd then you will be flying through the gears, very short ratio combo. First two gears will be next to useless in my experience.

You wont have traction issues with 345 tyres and only 600hp

For the rear you can get them to jack from the diff. From the front, if they can't get to the front subframe then go off the chassis rails, rather than the sills.