Mike2JZ

Oh, one other thing I just thought of. I don't have an aristo loom in front of me, but from what I can gather online, it dosent have the two black engine bay fusebox plugs that the Supra loom has. The wires that are found on these two plugs seem to exist on that giant aristo plug. So you will have to find the appropriate wires from this and extend it to reach the fusebox in your engine bay. You can nick the fusebox plugs from your old NA loom.

They don't have a page for a jza80 non vvti. The aristo non vvti page is 99% the same though if you need to find pinouts, and if you need to find the interior plugs the look on jza80 2jzge page

Almost. The ECU pinout between aristo non vvti and supra non vvti is 99% identical, so your EMU pnp adapter will be fine to use. However, on top of having to extend the loom, you also have one big problem. On the supra there is 3 interior plugs built into main engine loom (orange, grey & white). You can grab these from your old NA loom. You will need to connect a good 70% of the pins on these plugs to their relevant wires on the aristo loom to have power and signals going where they should. The aristo has 1 large interior loom plug where you will find 90% of the wires you require for the supra interior plugs. There may be a few that you will have to get creative with. Hopefully you arent scared of wiring as you will need to get stuck in with this. Study these two pages. You will be able to see what interior side wires are available from aristo to go to supra side. http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/37134472/2JZ-GTE%20JZS147%20Aristo%20Engine%20Wiring#JZS147ToyotaAristo2JZGTEEngineLoomtoBodyLoomPinout http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/41678224/2JZ-GE%20JZA80%20Supra%20Engine%20Wiring (I know it says GE for this, but the interior loom plugs are identical across all supra models)

Rip = Car is fast.

I mean no offence to Conceptua, but they are a part seller not a supra tuning garage. Sounds like they gave you the answer you wanted to hear in order to complete the sale. A quick phonecall to either SRD or Whifbitz and they could have warned you about your proposed changes and what would be required to complement it. Furthermore, you talk about head gasket longevity and then stick on a chinese conceptua headgasket rather than oem...nice. No one can tell you how much power you have lost & how much you can gain from a remap. No point picking a number from thin air and guessing based on how it feels. As far as I'm aware you have never posted a dyno graph from your old setup, so you have no baseline to work from. Without a baseline, how are you expecting to track future changes? Ideally you need to find a tuner/dyno that you can revisit so the dyno equipment remains consistent, from there any changes you make you can compare your old dyno graphs to new ones and see where your gains have been had. I applaud you for doing your own DIY as thats the best way to learn, but it sounds like you are starting to get in a bit to the deep end currently. My advise would be to find a reputable tuner that can check over all the systems on the cars you have played around with (such as compression test, cam timing, distributor timing, boost leaks, exhaust leaks etc etc). Once that sanity check is over and the green light has been given, get them to tune the car to a level you are comfortable with, and then finally you will have a baseline to work from. Or you can take your distributor as it now, advance it as much as it will go and the car will rip. Just don't cry when you melt a piston eventually.

Mark @ Abbey Motorsport can help you. He is the only authorized fcon mapper in your neck of the woods who can assist

I did try to warn you that putting a 1mm larger headgasket would have some knock on affects on your tune. As you now have less dynamic compression compared to previously, you will have to either gain back some efficiency & performance via adding boost, or having a more aggressive timing map or both. Only a tuner using a dyno will be able to dial this in for you as it can be difficult to tell slight changes in torque/peak power whilst driving on the road. If you keep your boost the same as it is currently and have your timing increased, then you will likely not need larger injectors. If you start increasing boost, then for sure you will need bigger injectors. Stock 2JZGE 330cc injectors are tiny, not much headroom for lots of boost. Be aware that if you want to increase the boost, then you will need larger injectors, uprated fuel pump & ideally some engine protections via your ECU. At minimum I'd recommend having a knock control system & some sort of overboost protection.

One minute they can't afford to develop the new Supra themselves, next minute they develop their own nurburgring. Oh Toyota. Be interesting to see if they open this for public use, or strictly for Toyota use only.

Have recently switched to a V161, so my R154 setup is up for sale. This conversion is plug and play kit for MKIV Supra. No modifying of any sort, just bolt it in and go like Toyota designed it to. Will work with any JZ engine. If you are an auto chassis then you will also require some pedals and a manual tunnel obviously. Parts Included: New late model tripod R154 from Soarer/Chaser 1998+ Xtreme Twin Plate Sprung Ceramic 200mm Clutch & Flywheel Kit. [KTY20531-2B] Rated to 900 ft.lbs torque Includes Flywheel, Twin Plate Clutch Parts, ARP Flywheel Bolts, Pull to Push conversion parts, Slave Cylinder, New Pilot Bearing, Clutch Release Bearing. [*]SRD Heavy Duty One-Piece Propshaft. Rated for over 800 ft.lbs torque. Custom built to work between R154 to A01B/A, A02B/A*, A03B/A* (* requires smaller diff flange) [*]SRD Billet Shift Knob & Chassis Shifter Boots [*]R154 Gearbox Rubber Mount & Gearbox to Chassis Brace [*]Speedo Sensor [*]Left & Right hand side clutch covers [*]Custom length stainless clutch line from Master to Slave cylinder. Will not split the above yet, interested in selling as full kit. Gearbox was purchased new from Toyota Japan via RHDJapan, late July 2019, installed in car on August 2019 and taken for a ~1500 mile eurotrip and some pulls on a dyno. Has done mainly motorway miles, never been on track or launched hard etc. Given that it's basically brand new still, it shifts like butter, no whines or funky noises. Have documents and receipts for when it was imported into the country. Clutch kit has seen around 10'000 miles(was used with a MKIII R154 previously).Pedal is light, and engagement is smooth too, but does require around 1000rpm to pull away. I used to daily drive with this clutch with no issues, you can slip it when required due to sprung design, not overly grabby. Has seen a few launches and burnouts over its life,but friction discs have plenty of life left. Gives the awesome twinplate clutch noise when engaged. I actually love this clutch kit, so much so I ordered an identical one for my V161 setup. This conversion is currently located at SRD Tuning, so ideally collection from there. Would need a pallet to post these items, so would need quoting separately if interested. Gearbox conversion can also be fitted at SRD if required. Price : £4300

The cheap £200 manifold have an acceptable plenum design/finish given they are copies of greddy and cost peanuts. Biggest problem with them is the awful throttle bodies they are supplied with. Massive issues with reliability, leaking air, TPS irratic readings, sticky throttles etc. Avoid like the plague and use a Q45 throttle body or similar instead. The NP boosted manifolds for ~£500 are actually pretty good. I had my doubts at first but have installed and tuned a few, and the throttle feels like stock & so far no issues with reliability or daily driving with them. Only 'issue' is that if you use the stock IACV and install it on the port they build into the plenum, then you will find clearance between IACV & the oil filter housing/cooler very tight. This can make getting your hands down there a nightmare. Otherwise, for the money there is no better "bang for buck" inlet manifold. After this prices skyrocket and you are paying for brand names Hypertune, Sleeper Design etc. I have no data to suggest which inlet flows the best, or the most evenly between cylinders. But most should be fine if you arent tuning your car to the limit. Whilst on the subject, this is an interesting video to watch regarding inlet plenum performance. Sometimes bigger dosen't mean better. But it looks cool so spend away.

Don't forget with hybrids that whilst it's all well and good getting a larger compressor/turbine in such a small package, not many people deal with the restrictive nature of the rest of the factory pipework, mainly exhaust side. Jspec turbo setup is the worst for this, better on Euro/US spec turbos as pipework is larger in places. It's a hard task to port or enlargen the exhaust side as a lot of the components are cast, but if ignored then the combo of higher boost pressures, more airflow etc just results in making EGT's and running temps go through the roof. It's fine for the dyno or a pull here or there, but if you actually plan on driving your over a prolonged period then you will run into this issue. Each standalone hybrid car we've done at work recently has a host EGT & temperature based strategies to monitor and combat this, but I've seen a few cases where all the fuel in the world cannot prevent EGT's from going over a safe level when driven hard as restriction in exhaust side is too large. Sequential setups understandably worse in terms of restriction versus a TTC setup. These restrictions & temperatures can be averted to a degree by using e85, but for 95% of the hybrid owners in the UK. This is not a practical solution for day to day driving. Meth injection can help, but gains no where near the same performance / safety as e85. I would only bother with steel hybrids if I had a set of jspec ceramics that were broken, or wanted to increase reliability in the long run whilst still making the same power as BPU. We are not in the right country for daily driving e85 balls out hybrid high powered setups in my opinion. Single turbo conversion is simpler, more thrilling & easier power gains whilst on 98 octane pump fuels.

Well its either that or a journal with a destroyed bearing

Its ball bearing.

Welcome. Get some pictures up

You need to move your cams to tdc first before moving crank, otherwise your process is correct - - - Updated - - - You need to move your cams to tdc first before moving crank, otherwise your process is correct

Must of misred, had it in my mind you were doing external controller. Cool, well then you are ready to roll. Best of luck on the next steps.

Good write up, glad to see your efforts are paying off. Generally running boost control through ECU gives a more consistent result day to day then an external controller which constantly needs attention based on environmental changes. Any reason why you are going to use external controller?

Some things you can investigate: a) On the engine loom find the two connectors that go to fusebox. Check the 3 (na) or 5(tt) pin plug, check the white wire which is alternator sense is still intact etc. Lights will trip if alternator sense wire not connected. b) Check wiring down by plug, very often see this wire corroded/broken c) It's your alternator, might charge fine but circuit for L warning light might be fucked inside alternator. d) Check orange plug in passenger footwell, make sure alterator L pin is connecting properly, no damaged wire etc. More often then not its the alternator.

Get the 364. Marginal difference between the two in terms of response, but you won't have to push 364 as hard to make the same power. Think Wayne made that kind of power @ 1,3 bar on his 364.

Take your dash panels out, remove the combination meter (speedo, rev counter, etc). Behind where the combination meter used to be you will most likely find a small black box with 5 wires that Is connected to your wiring loom. This is a speedo converter. Remove speedo converter and put wiring back to original and reinstall dash. Your clocks and odo will now read kph After doing this your car will be speed limited to 180kph. You will need to install a hks sld to remove the factory speed limit

Neither the TT or NA has a fuel pressure test point built into the fuel system anywhere. You will either need to hook up an inline fuel pressure tester/sensor somewhere.

It comes on as quick as a mid frame single turbo.

Looking for auto supra A02A 3.7 open diff

You can still buy bumpers new from toyota. Only a few hundred quid, dont pay that much for a second hand one