Mike2JZ

Nice restoration of the underside, takes some balls to open up the sills like that. Keep it up

You should have two ports on wastegate, a lower and upper port. Please identify and say which port had the knot in. Or takes some better photos, cant tell anything from the ones you took

Bloody gtr owners trying to bring our site down!!

I'd disagree with that statement a little. Given data to work with a Mappers job is both qualitative and quantitative. IE Any change they make ideally has both a numerical output via a sensor that they can monitor, as well as say listening for knock before proceeding with the next change. Ideally things like AFR, Boost, Detonation should be monitored by the ECU and setup to intervene should a situation occur that is deemed harmful. Most drivers under full throttle are paying attention to staying on the road, not monitoring engine vitals. I've seen it with my own eyes, no driver can react as quick as an ECU. For example, your AFR's and boost could be spot on but on a loud exhaust turbocharged engine you might not hearing it detonating its tits off. Ideally that would be the job of the knock sensor to react. eManage ecu mapping is different to a normal standalone as its a piggyback. At no time does the mapper have full control over what the engine is doing. The emanage is feeding off the inputs/outputs that the stock ECU is programmed to do, then fudges some signals to either add or decrease certain variables to achieve an outcome. So the map you have on there already will probably be in the right direction, but if you are planning a new exhaust, injector change more boost etc, then the mapper essentially has to start from scratch as your old map was setup for a different setup. On the flip side, one positive of the piggyback setup is that you only really have the option to tune fuel & ignition tables and a few engine limits. Most of the other elements of the engine's running like Cold Start, Idle Control, Gearbox control etc are all handled by the factory ECU so its not difficult to have a car that drives well as stock ECU is still doing most of the work. This will also cut down on mapping time compared to a standalone. It's been a few years since I stopped doing emanages, but it definitely didn't take £600 worth of labour to map one. If you get one of your mates to help you, make sure you have an old laptop with windows XP & a serial cable. Emanage software does not like playing nice with newer windows or USB/Serial adaptors, hard to make work.

Engine destruction is normally due to one or more of the following (in no particular order): - Excessive temperatures & inadequate cooling (coolant, oil, combustion) - Component lubrication failure - Lack of safety protections implemented (overboost, detonation, low oil pressure, rpm limits etc) - Hardware failure - Improper component installation & maintenance - Wrong or improper components (eBay parts that have a habit of failing once stressed) - Exceeding the mechanical strength of brand new or 20 year old components. - Getting greedy with power and finding the weakest link quickly. (Excessive timing, boost, lean fuel etc) - Improper fuels used (95 octane is good for 2 bar boost right?) - Aggressive map that makes good numbers but contributes to one of the above in the real world and dosen't last long. - Driver abuse (I heard a weird noise so I kept driving another 30 miles) I'm sure there is more, but these are some of the things that mappers must face. Some they have control over, others not. In terms of how big a mistake a mapper needs to make. It can be big and happen quickly, or a small mistake that takes time to do damage. Either way its fucked. This could range from overboosting with no protection once and melting a piston, or it could be slightly too much timing on boost that detonates the combustion mixture slightly and after 6 months of abuse the piston or valve finally gives in. There are many possibilities on how a mapper could make a mistake. Pair that with the possibility that an engine might not be in the most healthy shape for more power, and it's no surprise why you hear people exceeding their limitations on every engine setup out there. Anyway this has been all worst case scenario stuff. In the real world a decent mappers takes into account the above and will have specific ECU's & parts they like to work with as it gives them confidence to supply a tune that does the job on the dyno and can continue to perform out in the real world safely. So usually a good idea to follow their advise, especially if they have a portfolio of work that can prove their skills.

This one right?

It's been a while but have an update. Had an opportunity to try sequential & sequential/ttc switching using a syvecs recently. Can confirm it works a treat. Using a combo of PWM outputs and Custom 3D tables, you can use the logic outlined in the opening post to make this work nicely on a syvecs. Even had the SQ/TTC switching feature working off Toucan touchscreen. Need to get a hold of an AEM or Haltech next and see if it's do-able on those. Edit: For anyone wanting to try this out for themselves using a Syvecs, please be aware that you will need 3 free driving low outputs. Depending on your Syvecs ECU & setup you may not have enough outputs available, in which case you will need to sacrifice some or buy an IO expander.

Sold

Annoying that the manual dosen't make a distinction between GE & GTE compression figures. I tend to see around the 200-215 psi range on GE's still running 10:1 compression.

Factory manual specifies 156psi as the lower limit of what it deems healthy. From experience freshly built stock spec 2J's or well looked after ones are in the 165-180 region. Excessive carbon build up normally pushes them into the 190 region. But every engine is different so hard to generalise. Doing a compression test every now and then and tracking results is more useful then taking numbers off the internet. If it were me I'd be doing a combo of dry & wet compression test and a leak down test. That will highlight your engines health far better than just a compression test. Tracking oil consumption vs miles done can also shed some light on how things are with the motor.

You need to have all the spark plugs removed in order to remove any resistance from the cylinders as pistons move up and down whilst cranking. Usually a good idea to have a battery charger connected in case your battery is a bit poo and loses some omph by the time you reach cylinder 6. Your results look fairly consistent, but could be skewed by leaving plugs in, may be worth rechecking. If the numbers are accurate then you are slight down on compression compared to a healthy motor, but still have some way to go until you are at ~127psi which is the repair manuals limit for compression. You also seem to be within the 14psi range of highest/lowest cylinder so might be ok. If you are getting smoke on start up and have done 160k then chances are your engine is on the tired end of things. Might be worth getting a garage to give the engine a leak down test, as this can be a better representation of engine sealing health versus a compression test which is a bit of a crude ballpark figure. If you don't do a leakdown then may also be worth doing a wet compression test (drop a teaspoon of oil down into cylinder before testing). If your compression number remains unchanged then likely you are leaking compression via valves. If your compression number shoots up beyond 10psi then likely your rings are a bit worn.

Congratz Shane.

For early NA Supra's it was optional for SZ models. SZ-R models came with ABS.

Sold

Information is scarce, as are these models of Supra's. Estimated 1400 NA6's were produced in Japan. Only produced in Japan. In a nutshell. Produced from April 96 to July 2002. Hardtop only. Includes ABS, Airbags as standard. Big Brakes Optional. Otherwise has standard 2JZGE like pre facelift models. NA6 Supra's are facelift only. They are equipped with V161 gearbox and A03B (3.2 small case) differential. Perfect base model for a nice NA-T or TT swap. I believe Style on the forum has one, so maybe he can give some insight into anything I've missed.

New year bump and price drop to £4300

Wiring for FCD is the same as Greddy FCD. For Non VVTI ECU, instructions are here: http://mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/bcc_install/bcc-htm If you aren't reaching your target boost then you could have one of the following issues: a) You have plumbed up your boost controller wrong. b) One or both of your turbo air filter joiner pipes have collapsed, causing a restriction. This can cause funky boost issues, or lack of boost issues. c) Your second turbo is not coming online. First turbo normally only boosts to around 0.5-0.7. Try switching to TTC mode and see if this allows you to boost any higher. If so, then you need to diagnose your sequential system and see why second turbo is not playing ball. d) Decent sized boost leak somewhere. e) Your fuel system is borked and not delivering enough fuel to allow engine to produce any more puff. Last time I saw this happen, the car felt like it had an RPM limit around 4000-5000rpm where there wasnt enough fuel for second turbo to feel like it did anything.

Here is a dyno comparison at 1.4 bar on pump fuel on Luc's new setup. First run (red) with VVTI disabled, second run (blue) with VVTI enabled. Hope that answers your concerns phobos.

Easiest way to detect air leaks is with a smoke tester. A local garage should have one. Can be difficult to tell the state of some rubber hoses unless they have been installed incorrectly, but looks to be in the usual places based off your photos. I have seen similar symptoms to this when a HKS FCD has been setup incorrectly. Considering it takes 2 minutes to pull back passenger footwell carpet and remove ECU cover, I would prioritise that as your next step. Whilst you are there check your ECU is stock and not a modded ECU from the likes of Mines, Toms etc. Finally, check the wiring hasn't been messed around with too much whilst you are there. AFR gauge grounding location would matter if you were using the 0-5v output on a standalone ECU as it can suffer from voltage/ground drops, but as you are just reading numbers from the gauge screen it won't make much difference where you ground it. Try checking error codes. See if anything has been stored that might give you a hint. Worth checking if you have any major air leaks in exhaust system pre 02 sensor, as this can cause false lean readings.

Mine started as an NA, and over the years I've had to change everything on it to handle lots of power. Would of saved myself a good chunk of change if I just started with a TT6. In hindsight I should of done it that way round, so might not be a bad idea for you. Especially if you ever want to push the power of the car beyond stock.

How new is your fuel filter? What AEM gauge are you using, it is new? Is it new or old model that require free air calibration. Do you have any air leaks present on your intake system somewhere. Have you installed the fuel pump yourself? AFR's should be in the following ranges, providing no HKS FCD is used and stock boost levels on stock ECU: Cold Start: 11.5 -> 13.5 (Get's leaner as engine warms up) Warm Idle: 14.0 - 15.0 First Turbo: 12.0-13.0 Second Turbo: 10.0-11.0 Off Throttle Coasting (Overun Fuel Cut): Fully Lean

When Luke's new setup was on the dyno for the first time, Lee did a test of pump fuel 1.4 bar with vvti on versus off. I'll grab the dyno graph comparison next week and upload it. Suffice to say the overall trend of vvti making more power and torque and coming in sooner was still true.

Few things to check: - If it's a Link G4+ they can have an anti theft switch mode enabled. If the starter circuit is run through the ECU it will stop starter from spinning until Anti Theft mode is disabled. Unlikely it will be this as no one ever bothers running starter trigger through ECU but a possibility. - Check the 8Pin & 5 pin fusebox plug in engine bay. Check the engine loom side of it is fully inserted, no dodgy wiring etc. - In passenger footwell check the grey engine loom interior plug is plugged into correct connector. Check this thread, there is a photo at the end of what I mean. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?354556-Starting-issue - You can remove the lid from the starter relay and bridge the relay so it activates the starter motor. If you still have nothing then you either have a dodgy starter, bad wiring from fusebox to starter or missing fused voltage to starter relay. If the starter does spin when you bridge the relay, then issue is more than likely the NSW circuit not done correctly or is not plugged in etc.

VVTi for the win.

So long as it's tuned correctly your engine will remain healthy, wouldn't overthink that. If you can be bothered you could always buy another 2JZGE engine for ~£500 and do your conversion to that and drop it in, I wouldn't though, 0.5 bar boost is barely anything you won't have any major reliability concerns other than the usual service items of a 2JZ. With a higher compression engine you only need to worry about fuel octane and potential detonation, but if you are using decent fuel Shell V power for example and keep the boost at 0.5bar you won't have any issues with this. I can guarantee you that after a few months of driving you will be asking how to put a switch in to turn it up from 0.5 to higher, not a switch to do the opposite. 0.5 bar is already very low. In my opinion trying to have a wastegate spring lower than 0.5 is a waste of time. The only problem you will have with this setup is the autobox. NA autobox does not like power, anything more than 300hp/300 ft.lbs of torque and you are asking for it to shit the bed. In particular, it does not like shifting gears with that much power running through it when you are wide open throttle. To make the box last longer you need to lift off the throttle in between gear changes. Your best way around this is to either stick a manual box in it at some point, or go ask DavidP if he can hybrid your autobox which should let it hold around 550ft.lbs I think. Car would probably be worth around 13-14k I would say.