Mike2JZ

Upload your map and a log of the issue and I can take a look

You can buy synchro from Toyota still...

There is no where on the supra fuel system that will accept an off the shelf screw in fuel pressure tester. Annoyingly most of the decent places to test the system from all use banjo fittings. You will need an banjo fuel pressure adapter such as: https://www.ebay.com/p/603113948 Easiest place to use this adapter will be on the fuel filter, you can use it on the rail but its tight.

Oem cambelt and tensioner is fine for that power. If you have made your engine interference by running large cams, then you might want to consider a billet cambelt idler bracket and a racing cam belt for some insurance against something on cambelt system breaking For the cambelt to move so far forward I would imagine that you are missing the cambelt guide that sits behind the crank pulley, inbetweeners cambelt and lower timing cover. You may also be missing the timing belt plate that is installed on the oil pump.

Might be worth changing your other engine seals whilst you are at it. Personally I think the synthetic vs non synthetic is neither here nor there, however I frequently see the result of JZ engines that haven't had their seals changed in over 15 years. Normally all the rubbers become brittle after many heat cycle, at which point seals start weeping or springing a leak. If your rear crank seal felt brittle then chances are your front main, camshaft, distributor & rocker seals will be in a similar condition.

If it isn't broke then I suggest you leave it alone.

Put a flathead screwdriver in the area in green. Inside it a small grey tab, push it up and pull orange plug towards you and it will slide out. https://imgur.com/raVwiBZ

Stock coils are perfectly fine for big power build. But they need to be relatively new. 20 years old stock coils that are cracked are obviously going to have issues. Look at Realstreet supra. Arguably one of the most powerful JZ's on the earth right now and uses stock coil. I mean do what you like I suppose, the R8's wont let you down. I just wouldn't have picked them for the same reason as you.

Try this instead. https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/ngk-ignition-coil-u5015-48042 NGK Coilpacks with Black Tops, so they dont stand out as much as red. £120 for a set. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/coil-pack-connector-x6-TFSI-R8-sr20-2jz-1jz-fits-golf-tt-toyota-nissan-VW-Audi/223543566867?hash=item340c3c2213:g:gvAAAOSwFM1c-a3c Set of 6 R8 connectors with terminals £11 Get rid of adapter plate. Not needed. Have run mine for 3 years without, never an issue. Throw in a few more ££ for some wire and for a budget of £150 you can be on your way. Wiring these is super simple. The whole point of R8 coils is budget price for those usually who are NA-T or cant afford other coils. If you are willing to spend £400 might as well spend 100 more and go stock coils or R35 Should look something like this when installed

£400? lol where are you buying your coils from thats 4 times more expensive then it should be

Different league, the whifbitz coils have issues with spark with boost on BPU. Seen it multiple times. I've done 2.5 bar on a single turbo, standard gap plugs using R8 coils

Ah ok, that would make sense. The lower 'r8' coils I've used are actually vag coils for golfs and the like that look similar, but inferior design so melt when exposed to lots of heat

Any chance you can upload a photo of the lower version R8 coils they supplied you with. I have used a set of lower R8 coils before and they melted on a 9 hour drive into europe due to inferior design compared to the longer R8 coils. Be interesting to know if these lower ones are the same, or if there is a better variant of them on the market these days.

it's early, but already contender for thread of the year.

Haven't got one on me, but looks like this: Just the speedo unit, not the gauge cluster.

All sensors sold now, only speedo left

Innovate MTX-L Wideband Controller Gauge + Bosch 4.9 LSU Sensor - £90 (inc post) Link 3 Bar Map Sensor: £60 (inc post) AEM 12 Position Rotary Switches x 2 - £20 (inc post) each VPV Single Channel 0-5v Exhaust Gas Temperature Amplifier + K Type Sensor - £50 (inc post) Manual JSpec 0 - 180kph Speedo Unit (has MPH sticker on it already) - £100 (inc post)

And sumps, engine mounts, turbo drains etc

2JZGE vvti rods are weaker than non vvti variant. Everything else is the same. If you use this as a base for your project then put some updated rods in it 2jzgte vvti does not suffer from this issue

Kickdown works without the cable attached from what I remember testing on the last NA-T with a FFIM i did. However I think that cable tells the box to do something with line pressure? David P is the best person to ask about NA box and how it works. Also, an NA-T with stock NA autobox is not going to last long, so if you are going for more than 300hp/300ft.lbs then you might want to consider a DavidP hybrid box or a manual conversion. Otherwise the FFIM install is pretty straight forward, no different to putting one on a TT.

On the typical plug & play harness for syvecs, it uses the speedo signal from dash. However, it's totally acceptable and do-able to use an ABS speed signal. If your car has been setup to use traction control it will need to use a minimum of 1 front 1 rear sensor plumbed into the syvecs. Once done, in addition to TC you can allocate one of these sensors for what the ECU determines as the 'Vehicle Speed'. The question will be, does the ECU then output this speed signal to the Dash. Or is the dash still connected directly to gearbox? An easy way to determine this is to go into your Syvecs I/O configuration and see if 'Trip Meter' has been allocated on one of your outputs.

yes its possible.

The speed signal of the gearbox goes directly to the Speedo cluster via 36pin orange plug in passenger footwell, afterwhich that signal is then distributed to the ODO, ECU & PPS. Most Syvecs plug and play harnesses I've seen do not intercept this signal in any way, so there will be no difference between running syvecs or stock ecu. Obviously if someone has changed this to run the speed signal through ECU first then anything could be possible. Assuming your ODO works and ECU is receiving a speedo signal from the output of the combination meter then this will narrow down your speedo issue to: a) Faulty combination meter PCB b) Faulty speedo gauge c) Faulty KPH to MPH converter wiring d) Faulty wiring on plugs behind combation meter