Mike2JZ

Thanks For anyone building a high power JZ setup, this is a perfect example of good power being achieved minus the additional mark up of buying a GTE engine to start with. R154 is completely stock, purchased new from Toyota Japan few months ago. I doubt the box will last long especially on high boost, but shall see how it gets on, could surprise us. If not, will drop a HD gearset into it once it breaks. I don't have a full plot as I didn't bother doing a full non vvti run versus vvti with this car, but can find a graph from another car here

I know lots of the NA guys have been discussing the use of VVTI NA heads for future builds. It's not in a Supra, but I've been lucky enough to build this car for a friend and we got a bit carried away. The good news is that 2JZGE VVTI is an awesome platform for power once built. Makes what is basically a big diesel truck turbo come on fairly responsively so some bottom end pull can be enjoyed before holding on as it revs to 8k+ Engine Type - 2JZ GE VVTI Engine Spec - SRD Stage 3 Head, SRD Stage 1 Block, BC 272 Cams, FIC 1200 Injectors, NPBoosted Inlet Manifold, Walton T4 Twinscroll Manifold & 60mm Turbosmart GenV Wastegate, 5'' Whifbitz Intercooler Turbo - Borg Warner S369 1.0 A/R Fuel Used - Shell VPower & 60% Ethanol Exhaust - 3.5'' Downpipe to twin 3'' exhausts Transmission - Stock R154 (Brand New) ECU - Link ECU Mapped By - SRD Dyno Used - SRD Pump fuel figures - 738 horsepower @ the wheels, 611 ft.lbs of torque @ 1.8 Bar Boost 60% ethanol - 845 @ the wheels, 716 ft.lbs of torque @ 2 Bar Boost Pump Fuel - Wastegate Pressure 1 Bar Pump Fuel - 1.8 Bar Ethanol 60% - 2 Bar Boost VVTI On & Off Comparison at low RPM. Boost limit set to cut ignition when 1 Bar boost reached. Much nicer bottom end power and faster spool.

You need to remove the combination meter from the dash. Of the three big plugs that go into combination meter (White, Blue & Brown) you will need to play with white plug. It states what wires to mess with on that plug on the instructions

Stock ecu will shit its pants trying to run aggressive 272s, the fueling requirements are completely different to stock cams that have no overlap. You will need to adjust your idle to 1000 or maybe more to allow it to run. You can so this using the throttle set screws. If your ecu hasn't been plugged in for a while then it will need some time for the iacv to find its position, so you can try helping it stay alive with the throttle until engine is warm and see if iacv cam sort out the idle, if not use set screw. Also make sure your have a way of monitoring AFR

Install the control valve parts in the orientation shown above. The IACV will have two coolant ports on it with metal hardlines. These will foul on your inlet manifold. Use a set of mole grips on the hardline and rotate and pull till they come out, they are only push fittings. Oh and you can use a 20-22mm air filter for the inlet port

Good progress. Hate to be that guy, but I would highly recommend that you install an idle control valve from a 2JZGTE. The car will be much nicer when it comes to cold starts and idle control in general, compared to running without one. It will be a pain to install one later once you have everything in for real. The tweak harness should already have a plug for the IACV which will work out the box with the LinkECU. Much easier to pull the inlet off and install it whilst at this stage rather than later on. If you do want to install one you will need a 2JZGTE Idle control valve, IACV check valve & IACV rubber to be able to install it correctly into the port in the inlet manifold. The only thing to watch out for when using these manifolds with a TT IACV is that clearance between the IACV and the top of the oil filter assembly is quite tight, so make sure you dont have anything blocking room in this bit.

I've got a whifbitz twin 4'' on mine. It's still loud as hell, but compared to 4'' single its a lot deeper noise. I wouldn't go from a single to twin box if you are expecting it to shut it up. Exhaust baffle or control valve is the best way. I use a baffle personally but it is a pain

Yes in the mechanical sense. Electronically you will need to extend the ecu loom and mess around with interior plugs again as the gs loom is very different. However you could also get a supra nom non vvti engine loom, transfer that onto engine then it will be plug and play

Yes

Use OEM gaskets from toyota. I've seen & used cheap oem replacement gaskets that look like they do the job, but dont form a good enough seal so end up having to change them a lot sooner than usual. When installing make sure you have a clean surface for the gasket to mate too. Usually cleaning with brake cleaner is enough. Avoid using RTV unless you have a damaged/warped mating surface / rocker cover that needs a bit of sillicone to help fill in the gap for better sealing. If the washers for the rocker cover bolts are brittle & rock hard then maybe get a set of new ones. You don't want to over tighten the rocker bolts when installing the covers, and with hard washers its easier to over tighten. I think the tightening torque is something silly like 6-8nm, but easier to tighten by hand. Using a small ratchet you can feel when the bolts are snug and dont want to tighten more. When tightening start on the middle bolts and work your way outwards, tightening progressively. Usually takes 3 passes on the bolts like this to pull the rockers down evenly and compress the rubber gasket. I've seen rockers sometimes leak after they have had fittings welded into them and they are slightly warped, so check on a straight edge if you have done something like that. But I think NA rockers are magnesium so shouldn't have same problem as GTE rockers.

VVTI MKIV ECU is calibrated for a turbo motor. Many things it's expecting to see and use will be different like MAF, Injectors, Boost (or lack thereof), VVTI strategy etc etc, so hard to say if you could fudge it enough to play ball and deliver a good driving experience. That said, I agree VVTI is a no brainer for performance, but for a relatively stress free install you will need to do it like AC93 and use a standalone to control engine. I believe the only Supra's that ever existed with 2JZGE VVTI motor from factory were a limited run of late US-California spec cars. Even if you could get a loom & ecu from one of these cars (I'm assuming they are rare to find), it would be for a LHD setup so again you would have to extend it. Might as well just build a nice custom loom for something like an ECUMaster, will be quicker and probably the same money

What turbo have you got? If you are already at 1.5 bar, you may struggle getting to 700bhp if its only doing 520hp at 1.5. For pump fuel on a midframe turbo its rare to see over 1.8 bar boost with it still being safe for the engine in terms of detonation & pre-ignition.

OEM speed is adequate from my own experience, works fine if your setup is stock and you are using P&P Ecu and not looking to over complicate things. Generally if your intercooling system is good you won't be needing a super fast IAT sensor as the temperature fluctuations won't be huge anyway. An oem sensor still highlights any inadequacies with the intercooler system, but it is slower to respond for sure. Going to a faster sensor won't hurt though, I use one myself on my single build but have used stock sensor to good use many times. In a perfect world having an IAT sensor as close to where the air charge meets the cylinder would net the best results for air temp corrections, in practice though we are only measuring the best estimate of air charge temp. If you want to be really anal then your IAT's would change based on cylinder position and inlet distribution, but not really worth the aggro trying to account for this either by using IAT as a reference. The engine is a hot place so even having the sensor mounted on the inlet leads to the sensor usually getting skewered results from the heat soak of the hot inlet manifold. The problem with heat soak it is not always representative of the air charge temperature. Just because the inlet manifold might be 50C, the air charge temp could be 20C and wont be affected by the inlets heat as it passes by with high velocity (under boost). However the sensor itself cannot distinguish this difference very well if its heat soaked. I'm sure you could ask 10 tuners and get a variety of answers but many tuners will opt to place the sensor before throttle body away from the heatsoak as the data received of the airflow temp charge without heatsoak is more representative of the intercoolers efficiency & airflow charge at a given point, even if it is a few centimeters away from the cylinder. Fueling or ignition based IAT strategies may be more accurate under more scenario's than a sensor located in inlet manifold using this logic. Though you could make an arguement the other way round. Personally I'd try the stock sensor first in stock position then compare to a sensor mounted elsewhere and make your own conclusion on the matter. If you are using modelled mode for fueling on the Link ECU there is a map you can play with called Charge Temp approximation table. This table is aimed towards addressing heat soak on IAT sensors so you can define a bias between ECT or IAT to dictate air charge temperature depending on if the air speed is fast or low (under boost vs idle for example).

Still a lot of wiring to get GS300 ECU to play nice in a MKIV

The mechanical side of prepping the engine to drop in is fairly straight forward. The electronics side is going to be a bit of a nightmare if you plan on running the stock GS300 ecu. Off the top of my head, issues you will face are. - The GS300 engine loom is built to connect to an ECU in the engine bay, not in the passenger footwell. So that will all need extending. - The engine loom differs from a Supra loom in the sense that half the plugs on the GS300 ECU come from the GS300 interior loom, so you will have to replicate this by making your own adapter loom between Supra interior side and GS300 stock ecu. - However the biggest ballache is that the GS300 uses a Toyota style CanBus system known as multiplex, so in order to make your dash, AC and lots of engine functions work correctly you are going to need to get very creative to get the stock ECU to work with the Supra analog non canbus inputs. - You will also have the comlexity of getting the stock TT autobox or GS300 autobox working correctly on top of the above. If you aren't comfortable wiring then you are going to have fun doing the above. It's a lot of work. I've just finished working on a GS300 that uses a standalone ECU and had to tackle all the above in one way or another, wasn't fun. Personally in your situation I would just use the GS300. Or use a standalone ECU with the vvti engine in your supra, the loom you will have to make will be far easier & quicker to sort out. Although you will still have the issue of controlling autobox.

Ok so first of all let's clear up some misinformation. Both NA and TT Supra's use a fuel pump ECU from factory, located in the boot of the car. The NA and TT fuel pump ECU's are different, but effectively perform the same job. Although the TT units are stouter as they need to handle more load compared to NA. The TT fuel pump ECU's basically take a 12V feed from EFI#2 Relay, then output either a 9v or 12v feed to the fuel pump ECU depending on if the stock ECU commands a low load or high load situation via the use of a PWM 5v signal. The first thing you need to test if you think your fuel pump ECU is on the way out is the following. Switch your ignition on, but don't turn on the engine. Go into your engine bay, find the diagnostics port and bridge FP & B+ using a piece of wire. Bridging this puts the fuel pump ECU into test mode and will cause it to run at 12v continually. You should hear your fuel pump kick turn on, even if the engine is off. If your fuel pump does not kick on after doing this then you know you either have a wiring fault or the fuel pump ECU is faulty. Not all aftermarket ECU's can play nice with the stock fuel pump ECU. Typically when using a standalone we always replace the fuel pump ECU with as relay, as some other members have described above. I have never used a Wolf ECU before so can't comment on it's compatibility with stock fuel pump ECU. But I would imagine if you needed to setup a fuel pump relay, then you just need to wire either a grounded or 12v output from the Wolf ECU to trigger a relay for the fuel pump. Some aftermarket fuel pumps also don't like being run at 9V, usually requiring a minimum of 12v to be running troublefree. So this could also be a possibility depending on whats been installed in your tank. Start with the diagnostic port and see what it does then report back.

Typically the stock sensor works fine when doing standalone install. However, due to location on intake manifold it can suffer quite badly from heatsoak. Any sensor located on the inlet manifold usually suffers the same fate. So there isn't much point changing to another sensor if using the same location. Normally when using an aftermarket sensor, we get them installed just before the throttle body on the intake charge pipe. Here they won't suffer from heatsoak and still give a fairly accurate reading of the air before it hits the cylinders. If you did want to replace your stock sensor with another in same location then I think the thread size is something like M16 x 1.5.

By that logic you might as well restore the entire underside whilst you are at it cause if one ball joint is assumed to be gone then most the other ones probably will be too. Where do you stop

Depends if play is coming from ball joint or the rubber bushes that hold it to the subframe. If it's balljoint then change with OE arm, if its the rubber bushes then change with a polybush and you will be good to go. Usually its the rubber bush that goes before the balljoint

Peak power mixture is around 12:5. Though not much safety margin at this level. Better for road cars to find themselves in the 11.5-12 range. So correct in thinking that going leaner will actually be detrimental to power. I'm assuming he is still running stock NA 330cc injectors. If so then definitely won't be close to 415hp.

haha 15:1 on full boost. my god. please take this car to get tuned before you melt a piston.

https://blog.toyota.co.uk/gr-heritage-parts

For 700-800hp you can choose from the following, all will be suitable: Injectors ASNU, ID or Injector Clinic 1000cc will be fine. They are all bosch based injectors and run like stock injectors. I've seen them all do big power and run just fine, there won't be any gains from spray pattern etc that are noticable. Whatever you can get the best deal on just go with those. Pair these with a single 450lph or 485 fuel pump, an aeromotive fuel pressure reg and some AN6 fuel feed lines and you can do 700bhp with factory hardlines from fuel tank on pump fuel. For 800hp or more you will want to run an AN8 feed from fuel tank, which will use a larger fuel filter before feeding the rails. Cams (what lift/lobe is recommend for the 650-750 range?) - GSC Stage 1 or BC 264's are fine for 750. Would only go to GSC Stage 2 or BC 272 if you plan on 800hp+ and want to sacrifice the low end to make more on top. - If you plan on increasing rev limit as your turbo still wants to make power after the stock limiter then think about putting in some BC titanium valve retainers & springs. Intercooler inlet and outlet being 3'' is fine, but whats the core size and what brand is it? Normally chinese intercoolers that are 3'' cores struggle with high boost and don't cool down the air charge enough, so have massive issues with IAT's climbing 20/30 degrees in a pull, which is not good for making reliable power. A chinese 4 or 5'' cooler dosen't struggle as much due to larger surface area. Best results I've seen are with ETS intercoolers, usually 4'' is good for big single turbo. ECU, all the ones you listed will run the car quite well and can support the needs of a big single supra. Go with whatever your tuner is most familiar with and whatever you can afford. Don't forget to add sensors like oil pressure, fuel pressure, knock sensor etc to your ECU costs. The more data the better. Gearbox. Technically the BMW and CD009 kits work, but they are usually noisy boxes due to adapter kits being made out of ally, using lightened flywheels that have no dampening. If I had a pound for everytime I've heard someone complain after doing one of those conversions as they don't sound or drive like stock or they are constantly fixing problems on it, I'd be able to buy a V160. There is a misconception that doing a BMW or CD009 kit is going to be cheaper. But in my experience to do either kit properly with good parts, and not thrown together out of whatever scrap parts people have found of the internet you are looking at 4k-5k minimum for the conversion. At that point you are in the price region of an R154 swap, which drives beautifully. Especially if you buy a new box from Toyota. Downside is that after 700hp it can be a bit hit and miss as to whether the box will take the abuse. Realistically if you want a swap that is going to take some abuse, drive fairly well then I would only ever choose between T56 or V160. Both will cost roughly 8k by the time you get all the parts associated with both boxes. T56 at least comes with a warranty.

Front anti roll bar mounts. They go in engine bay

Around £500. Maybe more if you chance it on eBay