Mike2JZ

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I ripped mine out years ago, never had an issue with paint etc.

I've got a NA manual speedo unit. Haven't got the entire combination meter from an NA though

You could make it work, but you would have to change your inlet side pipework depending if you are still running na inlet or a ffim Mix of 70mm and 76mm iirc

These headlights have been split maybe 3 or 4 years ago now, so the lenses could get sanded and polished as the inside of lenses were a bit dull/cloudy. Headlight 1 - £100 Other than being split previously, otherwise in good nick. Has some vapour inside from sitting outside recently, but no rust that I can see. Headlight 2 - £30 Split previously and has damage to underside of headlight plastic due to unfortunate oven incident Always made me laugh how it's basically missing the underside covered with a load of tape and it never mists or rusts, guess all the extra ventilation kept it in check. You could use as is, but probably more useful as a spares/repairs light for someone out there. Collect from SRD or can arrange postage.

Changing my fuel system so have the feed and return hardlines from my car. Both have a spot with some corrosion, but not rusted through, so might be useful for someone trying to replace a factory line that rusted through. Have some overspray on the protectors, otherwise in good nick. £50 collected from SRD

- Used 3'' Intercooler, good for around 600bhp. Got a little toasty around the 700bhp range, so changing for something else. Hopefully this can help someone out there looking for an entry level budget friendly intercooler setup. I used it for 2 years without any major issues. - Pipework is built for single turbo conversions using stock inlet manifold. - Pipework is powdercoated satin black & uses mikalor clamps. - Pre TB inlet pipe has 2 1/8 NPT bungs. I used one for IAT and another for Meth Injection nozzle. - Intercooler has mounting brackets so will bolt straight in. Turbo side pipes may need to be adjusted depending on placement of your single turbo & turbo outlet size. Price: £150 + Post or collect from SRD.

Are you running a 1JZ engine loom from a Soarer, Chaser etc? I usually do it like: Find 'EFI Main Relay Trigger Signal' on the 1JZ engine loom side. Connect this wire to Pin13 (Ignition Switch) on 36Pin Orange MKIV Supra Orange Interior Plug. When you turn the key to ignition, the ignition switch will send 12v down the EFI Main Relay Trigger wire and activate the Main EFI 1 relay. When you turn key off ignition switch then relay will disable and ECU etc will turn off so engine stops. EDIT: Just seen above you are using soarer loom. 11th pin on 17pin grey plug is an ignition switch. This is an ignition switch, you can ignore this as the MKIVSupra interior plugs has an ignition switch you can use as explained above 12th pin on 14pin grey plug is Fuel Pump Control (FPC). Connect this to the 4th Pin on MKIV Supra Grey Interior Plug. If you haven't already been using this, use these sites to compare the pinouts between MKIV & Soarer Looms. http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/47216384/1JZ-GTE%20JZZ30%20Soarer%20Engine%20Wiring http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/41678224/2JZ-GE%20JZA80%20Supra%20Engine%20Wiring

Depends on the modifications, but if the boost were to reach peak as soon as possible, then it will make more torque. How much earlier it makes peak torque is hard to say. I doubt it will ever match the response of stock cams.

Don't think so

Yup I'd take it with a pinch of salt. The blue graph has progressive boost implemented due to stock bottom end, wheras red graph was asking for boost as hard and as soon as it could be mechanically delivered.

Hard to say without seeing the boost graph. But he's running that at 30psi (2bar). Most precisions with mid size A/R's start dropping boost on the high end (7.5k+), especially when running into the 2 Bar and beyond region. Would need to know what A/R the housing is, but his graph looks fairly normal to me. Again just assuming, but due to stock bottom end they could be ramping the boost in more progressively to help save rods as well. Here's a comparison between 6466 on two different stock bottom end 2J's. Red Line = Stock Cams, TT6, 2 Bar Boost. FSR Streetfighter Turbo Kit, Shell VPower Blue Line = 264 Cams, Auto, 2 Bar Boost, SRD Tubular manifold kit, Shell Vpower Not an exact apple to apple comparison, but it's still fairly representative of the differences in spool from stock cams & log manifold versus top end power from cams & tubular manifold. As Dan mentioned above, you will struggle on a 6466 to run 650whp whilst beating it around a track whilst using pump fuel. You would be at 1.7 Bar+ boost to make that kind of power, and things will get hot quick, especially on log manifold. If you have E85 readily available, then go for it. 6466 should be more than content to run 500-550whp with track abuse at a lower boost level on pump fuel however. If you really want 650whp for track usage, then using a 6766 or 6870 will be better. Can run less boost for that amount of power on pump fuel, and the spool differences will be marginal.

I've tried a lot of different combo's of coolant system components (NA/TT Rads, Waterpumps etc). Never seen anything majorly different in terms of coolant temperature under most normal circumstances. Typically when plugged direct to Standalone ECU i see most 2J's floating around the 87-97C range depending on if idling, cruising, flat out etc. If you are regularly going over 100C, then something is not right somewhere. If you can connect to your ECU and track your coolant temperature that way, you will have better data to work with. The stock dash gauge has a silly range of something like 80-105 degrees whilst it's in the middle, so hard to tell if you are okay or on the hotter side of things until its too late. Rad cap pressure rating shouldn't make any difference to your systems ability to maintain a stable coolant temperature. Unless of course your Rad cap itself is on the way out. Are you still using stock viscous fan and shroud? Cheapo aftermarket electric fans with terrible shrouds usually don't help with overheating issues. Make sure when you fill your coolant system that you jack the front of the car up quite high, and keep burping the coolant system until you have no more air. Then start engine and check temps. Is your thermostat operating correctly? Once car is up to temp after a small drive are both the top and bottom rad hoses the same temperature and by feel do they seem to have a similar amount of pressure.

It's super common to see Facelift 2JZ engine mounts make vibration on idle (sub 1000rpm), regardless if its manual or auto, NA or TT. Just replace with a new set of facelift engine mounts and will fix problem. Prefacelift engine mounts & brackets do not suffer with this problem.

Not that easy though is it. Let's say you can get a used V160/1 for 4k-5k. Assume its in good working condition and has no synchros or bearings that need fixing. Otherwise factor in another 1-2k on repairs, depending on amount of components that need changing. So now you have a V160, but if you are shooting for big power then you still need a big clutch & flywheel to support the power. Another 1.5-3k depending on clutch/flywheel choice. Now you have your V160 in the car, but gear ratio's are all screwed up unless you are starting with a 3.26 diff. So now you have to get a propshaft that can handle big power and the right ratio diff. Can spend anywhere between 1.5 - 3k here again depending if you go with big case / small case, uprated propshaft etc. So before you know it you are back in the region of 7 to 11 grand just for a driveline setup. I'm not hating on the V160 by any means as they are a proven setup, but if you take the above as an example and give yourself a rough budget of 10k to get your driveline sorted for handling north of a 1000hp. Then you can basically swing either way in terms of T56 or V160. T56 at least comes with a years warranty, and should something break its easy to get replacements. Have you tried rebuilding a V160 recently? I have, not cheap or easy to find all the parts. Not impossible obviously, but bit of a ballache. If a car was TT6 to begin with then obviously you'd be mad to change the V160 for a T56 if everything was still working correctly. But if you are coming from an NA or TT auto that has none of the TT6 driveline to begin with, then my opinion would be to go with T56 if I had 10k to blow on a driveline.

Take a video and upload it

Get your wheels balanced on the front. Sometimes spacers on the front can cause this as well.

Only bother gapping plugs if you are getting spark blow out during boost. If your spark is getting blown out then that points to weak ignition system, so if you are still running a dizzy then consider upgrading HT leads, or switch to coil conversion.

They are fine, no need to bother going to 9's unless you are running 700hp+

Yes this is using a ge head with small port and polish. We overlaid this vs similar gte builds and the results are very similar. Gains are negligible between gte and ge from what I can see so far.

Gains compared to what?

Can't say I've done a spec stage 3+ on a 6 speed, but all the ones I've fitted to R154's drive superb, on par with oem drivability. Check your friction disc hasn't been installed backwards, and make sure the pull hub release system has been fitted with the correct washers etc. Where is your biting point on the pedal. Perhaps you need to play with clutch pedal adjustment rod

Auto ECU malfunction may not store an error code. Obviously if its hard to find another ECU to test with then maybe investigate some other possibilities first

Try another ECU Common for auto ECU's to fail these days and cause weird issues. If issue is still present on another ECU, then could be solenoids?

Yeah he's pretty chuffed so far. Will be interesting to see how a big power JZ in a luxury barge feels like For the money its pretty good. I'd still class it as an eBay part, but of the eBay manifolds you can buy its the best i've used. Not much else on the market for £500 that can compete with it. Drivability is good, throttle feels fine, quality is pretty good and it supports the power. Only issue so far I've had is the throttle sticking as the butterfly valve screws loosened and the throttle blade moved after seeing lots of high boost action. Screws have been resealed in now, will see if they move again. If so will have to find another solution.