Mike2JZ

Your new aristo vvti motor will need some parts from your old 2JZGE, in order to make dropping the new engine into the Supra as plug and play as possible. You will need to transfer: - Upper & Lower Sump + Oil Strainer/Windage tray (You will have to drill & tap the oil return in order to hook up your turbo oil drain though, takes a few minutes to do) - Engine mounts & brackets - AC compressor (if you plan to run AC) - Powersteering Pump More info here: http://www.2jzgarage.com/2016/02/toyota-supra-na-tt-conversion-aristo-engine-differences-part-4/ If it were me I'd probably also hang onto the 2JZGE engine loom in case you want to modify that to work with your new engine setup, as the only other major hurdle with VVTI aristo swap will be getting the wiring loom to play nice in a MKIV supra chassis. Rough price guide that I would want to pay for your items: Complete 2JZGE & Auxilleries with no issues: £500-750 2JZGE missing the above items and needing a rebuild: £150-300 2JZGE Engine Loom: £100-200 2JZGE Manual ECU or Auto ECU: £100-200 Hope that gives you some indication of value and what parts you need for swap. good luck!

Compression of 8:5:1 if you want to play it super safe on pump fuel. If you want car to feel more responsive and make more power then go to 9:1 or more. Our pump fuel is better than US fuel, so we can get away with more on pump fuel. However if you go too high in static compression then generally there will be a limit to how much power you can make safely without detonation, before needing to switch to ethanol. Your tuner should have a preference for dealing with this. Also worth noting that static compression numbers aren't everything. Depending on cam and head setup, your dynamic compression with the motor running may allow you to get away with more on pump fuel than you might think.

Spaghetti junction there. No wonder you are having issues. Completely different to any HKS boost controller I've plumbed in, looks so wrong I'd RIP out the plumbing, put it back to stock then start again. When I get home tonight I'll upload some photos and diagrams you can follow

The spike in timing is controlled via the factory NA ECU. Removing the ACIS setup on the car will not remove the timing spike. It will occur if you have the mechanical ACIS valve or not. If you are using something like an eManage to piggyback the stock ECU, you will need to pull timing out in the ~4500rpm areas to avoid this issue. You will not have to worry about this using TT ECU. I can make a better recommendation though. The "NA-T Bible" thread is really old now, and whilst it has some good knowledge in there, there are a number of areas that I'd recommend not trying. One of which is setting your car up using a TT ECU. Yes it half works, but its more trouble that its worth, trust me, been there got the t-shirt, wouldn't do it again. Rather than spending money on expensive used stock ECU's, then bolting on an emanages and ruining your stock wiring harness to bodge a TT ECU in there. Take £500 go buy yourself an ECUMaster classic & an adapter harness. Now you will have the freedom to do whatever you like on your setup and not constantly have to fight a stock ECU or wonder if its doing the right thing etc etc. Plug it in and voila you have a full running standlaone with sensors for less than a grand. Didn't have that available to us when the "NA-T bible" was written. Also if you aren't looking for mad power, then leave the dizzy in. If you need COP without re-engineering half your engine, leave the dizzy in and use it as your triggering system for ECU. K.I.S.S.

No such thing as an ECU remap using the stock ECU. The stock ECU is almost prehistoric by modern standards, and bar a few ancient tuners (Mines, Toms, etc) in Japan who can/did modify the ECU's ROM files back in the day, there is no one offering such a service anymore. On a stock ECU if you are looking to max out your factory turbo setup, then you can do "Basic Performance Mods" [bPU]. This revolves around fitting exhaust decats, boost controller, larger intercooler, a fuel cut defender and raising the factory boost from ~ 0.7 bar to a safe maximum of 1.2 bar. This will get you to around 350-400whp range. Manual boost controller can work fine but lacks any sort of safety features, so if you don't know what you are doing, you could start damaging the engine/turbo system without knowing. Most electronics boost controllers will have a safety alarm and can turn off if overboost is detected and is being caused by the controllers settings. If you want 450-500 rwhp. Then you either go with larger hybrid turbo's or a single turbo conversion. Both will require a standalone ECU, uprated fuel system and many other supporting mods to support said powerlevels safely and reliably.

If you are not doing the work yourself and are relying on a mechanic, then please do yourself a favor and visit a supra specialist before you blow up your turbos and engine running 30psi of boost. There are a few specialists scattered across the UK, all of which will be capable to setup a boost controller. Its pretty simple. Adding a second boost controller is not going to solve your problem. Do not do this. (Although technically possible, but not needed for this scenario, so lets keep it simple :3) Failing that, if you are capable of picking up a spanner and taking some photos of whats been done in terms of vac hose plumbing between your boost controller solenoid and turbos, then we might be able to crack this problem via the forum members knowledge.

You can't limit the boost with a controller, you can only raise boost with a controller. For you to have good boost control there needs to be a good mechanical wastegate pressure setup. AKA, when you have the turbo actuators running directly off wastegate (no external boost controller of any sort), there should be no boost creep etc. It should hold a steady pressure to redline. On a decent BPU setup this should be around 7-10 psi on first turbo, and 10-14psi on second turbo, all depending on types of turbo's used, decats, exhaust system etc etc. If you are getting boost creep with wastegate pressure you have a mechanical issue that needs addressing, otherwise trying to put a boost controller on top if that is going to achieve nothing.

You dont need two separate boost controllers. Nothing wrong with EV6 controller. You are overboosting because it has been setup wrong in the calibration, or your mechanic has plumbed it up wrong.

Both. Although that was many years ago now, richard has done quite a bit of developments on the car since

You dont need TRAC ecu. It wont work anymore when stock ecu is removed

You can still buy new gaskets and seals from Toyota or online vendors for all the bits you mentioned, so will be easy enough to fix. Cool I drive from UK and hang out in Lausanne when I go to Swiss. Maybe next time I will see you, usually I spend some time at Handshin imports with Jesse.

I doubt your Link is dead. The battery and oil light do not run through the Link, so if they are not working then perhaps you have another issue going on. Does the starter motor crank if you try to start the car?

Hi, welcome. Supra is an old car now so things like leaks are more common, especially if it hasn't been maintained over the years. If the car is maintained well then there should be no reason why you have multiple leaks, unless the leak is being caused by old parts or have faulty installation. If you make a list of the issues then I'm sure then we can all help guide you to fixing it. What part of swiss are you from? I am driving my supra to swiss 1-2 times a year normally.

So to offset the cost of wasting some e85 in traffic when you use some rarely throughout a year, you are going to spend thousands implementing a second fuel system. Lol. I'll tell you why no one has done this, because it's not practical or cost effective. Strokers are cool but making ridiculous torque down low is going to spin wheels and break parts when it finally hooks, so try not to go to extreme with the quest for ultimate torque/response under 4k.

Correct, although these days it's rare to to see a round style plug as they were only on super early engines or older 7M GTE and so on. 9/10 times its going to be an Oval plug for both TT/NA. The part number you mentioned above uses oval plug, so will be direct fit to your NA loom as is.

All 1JZ & 2JZ alternators are plug and play in terms of plug used and mounting holes. The only difference other than the current output of the alternator itself , is that on NA and TT alternators, the position of the alternator plug is slightly different, but there is enough wire on the plug to reach either, so usually not a concern.

Should be do-able yes. You will need to define a custom sensor that will act as your ride height sensor, then create a number of 2D/3D custom maps that will use 'Ride Height Sensors vs Variable X' which would define changes to ignition timing, boost, DBW etc.

Your wheelie control will be your R154. It will shit the bed long before you car manages a wheelie

Yeah shoot Lee an email for a quote, will speak to him about it today.

I dont have one myself nor have I tuned a vvti variant before. The only 1uz's I've tuned have been non vvti as they are preffered by many due to larger rods. In stock form with a standalone the power gains were pretty marginal to be honest. In those cases a standalone was used over stock ecu due to stock ecu reliability and ease of troubleshooting/diagnostics, with the idea that if they wanted to add more power with forced induction in future, they could. If I were you, I would probably take the money from an ECU and upgrade the engines rods and pistons first. The rods in vvti 1uz are begging to be bent with any kind of boost on them. No point doing a supercharger if you have to dial it back so much just keep the engine intact. Make the engine stronger, maybe drop compression slightly then bolt your supercharger and standalone on and it turn it up.

Not that I am biased , but +1 for Link. Lots of support across the UK for it & online. More than capable of running VVTI 1UZ, though you may not have a plug and play ECU option. Might have to be a wire in jobby, but I believe there are a few vendors out there selling "plug and play harnesses" that you could use instead. These days I would say that most modern ECU's that are popular, Link, Syvecs, Haltech etc can all run VVT 1UZ just fine. VVTi isn't some black magic that most make it out to be, its fairly straightforward, especially with today's technology. Never heard of anyone using MBE, haven't used it myself. Can't claim that its not viable, but in your shoes I would be steering towards a more mainsteam ECU option as you will open yourself up to more support from tuners.

What gearbox and what propshaft are you using. Are you running any wheel spacers.

What engine mounts do you have