Mike2JZ

The dip is the ACIS valve opening on NA, normal.

They work fine, see them a lot of japanese imports, some use them on small singles as well.

More important is to prime the oil filter by filling it with oil before fitting. I've tested back to back with and without this, and looking at oil pressure logs there is a small delay without priming the filter where engine spins without oil pressure. We are only talking about 1-2 seconds, so not likely to be that big of a deal given riders point above, but if you wanna be anal then i'd prioritize that over priming the system by spinning it over without starting

Is it the male or female terminal you need?

Take a photo of it, might have a terminal for it

There bolts and a large slide tab at the top that needs to be released before you can pull it out fully iirc

Not that bad if you know what you are doing with wiring. If you arent into wiring then I'd probably avoid and get someone else to do it

Make a custom loom, or modify ge non vvti loom for use with vvti and crank/cam signals etc.

If you load the engine up at sub 2000rpm in a high gear you will hear the clutch rattle, this is super common on all aftermarket clutches. Some louder than others but they will all do it. This isnt a modern diesel, choose the correct gear for the speed you are going. Not that difficult to do.

Likely thermostat if broken pipe is stone cold when rest of engine is warm.

SRD uses Kelford on pretty much everything. Can't say we've ever seen anything like this in probably 100+ sets of camshafts, normally quality is up there, hence why we use them. That said I guess anything could happen in manufacturing/transportation/installation etc. Disapointing to hear they arent a bit more open to helping you out. Did you buy direct or through a dealer? If through a dealer I'd see if they can leverage a bit to help you out.

good to see ya on here clint, new setup looks like its gonna be a beast.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202871192938?hash=item2f3c10bd6a:g:xwUAAOSwt95eEwC4&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0GdpjVsk%2FFawlttLlPIBHkIMGVsLZlWEMWovPxlLAgVUjAlLlOC66eMNz6vFr6h29ezHA%2FqzzLXVokMX7BF5qILdfXyhzAvscqNDc8OzEfe%2FT8xjzX7eUsBnYiL0N5PwZzQs2Eme1Ds455fFVly4N%2Fb%2FL1MaCPHO7ozROTT9Ru8R5ZSphQ6mhiT8n4w5VZ2ogJOWApENtks20Th5sj6ZVrPxQFdK53pLTyFFin3QTUFMyz8DuZsAqbXH%2FO5lkCnd1fsX%2BOz3rtEHT1CnqWChX74%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9L8xaSZYw use these

I’m not sure how it happened, but I think I’ll blame Jefferson at RR for his offhand comments of how it would be nice to get rid of all the factory wiring as it will look better and have more functionality with a fresh setup (he’s not wrong, but was tight on cash at the time so opted out initially). That thought stuck in my head for a few months before I started cracking and slowly started acquiring more and more expensive black boxes and gizmo, then decided the C127 was too small to see properly, so went C1212. Before I knew it, I had amassed a small fortune in electronics. Even though it took longer, I’m glad I waited as I have all the toys I think I’ll ever need at this stage of the cars development. So we have: - Custom Steering Wheel with CanSwitchV3 + Otto Buttons + Domiworks Paddles - CANTCU Transmission Controller - Motec M150 Devel Firmware - Motec PDM 15 - Motec PDM 30 - Motec C1212 Dash - Motec 15 Button Keypad - Motec 5 Button Rotary - Motec DHB - Motec Rear Facing Camera - MSEL Master Relay - Syvecs Expander X20 - Syvecs Can2Lam - Syvecs 100hz GPS/IMU - Turbosmart Electronic Straightgate 50mm - CanHub CBD08 Motec PDM30 & PDM15 These power distribution modules will as the name implies, take care of distributing power from the battery to electronics, lights and anything else that requires power on the car. There are no fuses or relays anywhere on the car now as everything is built into these two little boxes using solid state technology trickery, essentially mimicking what a traditional relay box/fuse setup does, but in a much more streamlined package and can be managed entirely from the software side of things. The PDM30 will provide power for most of the interior and engine related components and be installed in the front of the car, whereas the PDM15 will take care of everything in the rear and any extra things that don’t fit anywhere else. M-SEL Master Relay Switch This little guy is quite clever, essentially it’s a solid state relay that can disconnect the battery from the rest of the electronics through a driver, external or CANBUS based switch. Any issues can have their diagnostic messages sent through the CANBUS to display on the dash, so easy to understand any issues whilst strapped into a bucket seat. Same job as an old school kill switch, just better in about every way. Motec M150 Devel ECU This ECU will control the engine and communicate over the CANBUS with various devices in order to implement everything required by me. I upgraded this ECU to a developer license to mess around with M1Build which will allow me to repurpose or create custom functions for the project and develop a custom canbus configuration to keep all these devices playing nice with each other. CANTCU Gearbox This is a controller for 8HP & DCT gearbox implementations which keeps the factory transmission ECU inside the gearbox, and feeds the correct data over CANBUS to make the stock TCU function as intended. I like the OEM tune of these gearboxes and it drives super smooth and the torque management system is just like OEM, so really clever and efficient when paired up with an engine ECU that has proper torque management strategy built into it. Can flash the OEM gear map like you would on any other factory 8HP car, so can change things on the TCM side if required, but other than some torque limits and minor mods to TCU, I want to keep the gearbox control messing to a minimum. Racegrade EGT Module Will allow connection of 8 EGT sensors, which then feeds the data from each over the CANBUS back to ECU. I liked this module compared to competitors as I can mount it somewhere in engine bay, plug my EGT sensors directly into module and only have to pass 4 wires for power and communications through the bulkhead back to ECU, rather than 20 wires that all need to be specific material to keep the EGT’s accurate through a bulkhead connector, which is a pain. Will have per cylinder EGT’s & downpipe EGT, with a spare for anything additional. Syvecs CAN2LAM This thing is epic. Been waiting for this to be released for some time and it came through at the right time. This is a wideband/lambda control module that can take up to 8X NTK wideband sensors, with up to two exhaust pressure sensor inputs for single or multi bank exhaust pressure compensations for the lambda signals It can send all this data to any ECU using CANBUS, so wiring isn’t that scary. Will probably implement this in a way that can be removed from car fairly quick in case I want to chuck it on another setup easily. Will use this and 7 NTK sensors to give me oversight over per cylinder variation on fuelling and overall fuelling in the downpipe. Thinking to put an exhaust pressure sensor in each scroll of the manifold, so can keep an eye on pressure on both scrolls. You’d hope they would be equal, but I’m interested to know if there any difference. Syvecs 100HZ GPS/IMU One of the fastest GPS systems available at a consumer aftermarket level as far as I’m aware. Whilst it can provide a speed signal to ECU, the positioning data for long/lat/roll and forces of pitch/yaw/roll will be very interesting to me. Can plot out racetracks or drag runs using GPS data and use previous run data to do some sneaky tune modifications. Motec 15 Button Keypad This keypad works over the vehicles CANBUS system and can be used to control functions on the PDMs, ECU or Dash. Will have this mounted near my head on the nearest roll cage so I can still push buttons whilst strapped in with harnesses. Motec 5 Button Rotary Switch This is a cool addon, it integrates via the canbus and works mainly with the Dash & PDM. The rotary button allows for menu scrolling & selection on the dash, similar to what you might get on a MK5 Supra iDrive system for example, just a bit more simple in comparison. Syvecs X20 Expander This works similar to a Motec E888, and is just an expander for extra I/O for the ECU. Communicates this data over the CANBUS to main ECU or dash. Also comes with two built in lambda sensor controllers, which I was going to use initially until the CAN2LAM was released. Motec DHB This is a high current driver that can control things like fuel pumps, electronic waste gates, water pumps etc. using signal from the ECU to tell it what to do. Trying to control some of these systems direct from ECU will normally end up frying the board on the ECU, so an intermediary box like these become very useful. Motec C1212 Not much to say other than big ass display that is miles ahead of the competition in terms of customization and quality currently (in my opinion). The C127 display looked a bit pony once the stock dash was removed, so decided to make it a bit easier on my eyes by fitting the C1212. Only thing I'm still on the fence about is getting an aftermarket ABS controller from SCS Delta. Otherwise I think im good to go now on the electronic front. About half way through the year I setup this little mobile workstation so I could power up most of the new toys and make sure I could get them to communicate and setup the CANBUS network in my free time in evenings. Everything went smoothly with this and I get everything I needed out of it at the time. One thing I've always wanted for my Supra but never found one was the Defi Super Sport Cluster, for its time period I think its an epic dash. So if I cant have the real thing I'll make the next best thing. Needs a bit more work till design is finished, but you get the idea. Will stick the reverse facing camera in the right side of the screen whilst in this view so can always see people disapearing away One thing I really like using the Motec rotary controller is that it can function with the dash as seen in the video below. Essentially lets you have lots of digital rotary switches, so you can choose what mode you want your boost/traction/launch control/dbw sensitivity/ gearbox modes or whatever else you can dream of, all from a nice drop down menu rather than needing loads of physical rotary switches. Next I had to figure out where I was gonna stick all this stuff in the car, so got round to test mounting a few things. Once strapped into seats you cannot move, so all controls and adjustments basically need to be in reach of the drivers seat, so had to get creative either putting things above or below the driver. Needed something to mount the button keypad and master switch over rides above driver rollcage, so had one of our apprentices mock up this mount. Need to make a slight revision to design and print it out a different plastic, but as a POC it works great, allows easy mounting of buttons directly above my head. Started mocking up a rubber mounted plate for main board that will house the majority of the brains of the car. Going to design it in a way that all the wiring coming in/out of this area is completely modular, so can remove panel for each wiring changes if required, as no doubt I'll be messing with the configuration of things as time goes on. Will make a kick panel that goes over this once done to keep any excited passengers feet away

Using the dipstick still. PHR oil temp thingy replaces the low oil level sensor, not the dipstick

After waiting patiently until our fabricator Ash could spare some time for my build, he eagerly jumped on the welder and got to work straight away as soon as the new gearbox was in and mounted. First on the agenda was mocking up part of a 4'' downpipe to see what room we had to play with. Same process again with the 4'' intercooler pipework. Once the downpipe was in place, the straightgate and wastegate collectors could be fabbed up The straightgate 50mm is compact on the pipework side of things, but the housing for the electric motors and other electronics is quite a chonky boi, so finding space to mount everything was a challenge. Ideally I would of love to have had it mounted in the space near where the brake booster normally sits, and on a poppet style wastegate this could have been do-able as its basically a 90 degree bend within the gate itself. The straightgate on the otherhand is as the name implies a straight shot through the gate, so I wanted to keep the flow pre/post gate as free flowing as possible with minimum bends and turns to help encourage flow through the wastegate collector. Feel like having a series of sharp 90 degree bends to mount the gate in a more serviceable location probably defeated the idea of using a straightgate in the firstplace. To make life a bit easier for Ash i sourced a billet wastegate collector with the correct flange for the new gate. Nice thing with billet is that this piece has been CFD flow'd for the best efficiency and has little risk of cracking so should be solid for years to come and saves Ash from having to spend a few hours making something from scratch. Ash did a good job on finding a spot where it was still semi accessible without getting in the way of anything else. Next up for the exhaust system is to get the rest of the downpipe pipe made, recirculate the straightgate into there, then fab up a midpipe and rear section. Was wondering how we were going to tackle the 5'' pipework as its really hard to find here in the UK. Again Ash to the rescue, looking in a corner of our storage area and coming out with two massive 5'' 90 pipes. An hour later and he fabbed up this beauty above. Looks and is totally OTT, love it. Also chucked in my pre turbo pressure/temperature sensor and pre turbo mass air flow sensor. Fairly hidden unless looking at the right angles. Once the turbo outlet to intercooler pipework has been made, then we look into the lowerhalf of the air filter pipework and see what can be squeezed in there. Big thanks to Ash and many apologies for the crazy amount of fab that is still left to do, I promise it will be really cool when its all done and working

I know, cant believe I'm putting an auto in it, will certainly miss the manual for driving fun. Luckily I'm keeping the clutch pedal, clutch master and manual tunnel so if I do need to drop a sequential or manual box back into the car, then I've got everything ready to go. This auto is just to prove some numbers in a straight line, but I'm not sure its going to enjoy going round a track so I am prepared for the idea that it will be changed with something else one day. Ideally I just need a very good sequential gearbox, but I dont have a spare 30k to blow on a decent one, spares & upkeep etc at the moment, so that will have to be a future thing. 8HP was the best I could find that gave sequential straightline performance for a fraction of the cost.

Small care package from PHR: Had to remove my subframe to fix a thread on one of the chassis mounts, so whilst it was out it was quick to throw some solid bushes in as mine were a mix of 30 year old OEM and polybushes. Grabbed a new high pressure steering line as mine had seen some better days, so figured ill get that changed out before it eventually fails. Also changed the low pressure PS line from the rack to the same style of AN fittings and braided hose. Final thing on my shopping list was the secondary cambelt pulley kit. I have no idea if this part will have any relevance to my build or not, but I have noted a lot of cambelt flexing/movement on some customer builds when revving high with big boost behind it. So I'm interested to trying this part back to back with OEM setup, see what changes it makes and if it improves any high RPM crank/cam signal stability. So quickly dropped the rear subframe and fuel tank out. Ripped out the rear OEM brake lines that I'm no longer using and old fuel lines that I'm replacing with new. Managed to save the thread on the front subframe mount in the chassis, which is anyone was looking for any details is a M14 x 1.5 thread. Luckily had a tap for this in the workshop so didnt have to wait to get a new one delivered. Changed the Front Subframe, Rear Subframe, Front Diff & Rear Diff Mounts with solid PHR bushes. Had been a few years since I've done bushes, so started with front diff bushes which were not kind to me. Security camera in the workshop has captured some gold with me rolling around on the floor trying to get enough leverage to get the bushes out. Got there in the end by drilling out the metal tube then everything else popped out. By contrast every other bush went to plan and was only a few minutes of work. Subframe looks a bit meh since i gave it a mild restoration 6 years ago, but I've decided I'm not going to get stuck in the trap of trying to make the underside look mint and perfect at this stage. It can look like shit, but every arm and join is in perfect working condition, which is far more important at the moment. Only thing I need to revisit on the rear end is the differential cover bolt holes. The threads on them feel awful, so need to drop diff again quickly and tap them out or put a billet SRD cover on the back. For the time being I'm still with the OS Giken 1.5 Way with 3.266 ratio, seems to suit the new gearbox fairly well so will start with that and see how it goes. Whilst the fuel tank is out, I was able to finish mounting the battery, washer bottle, nitrous bottle and run a bulkhead fitting for the rear brake lines in the boot/trunk. Next I need the mount the rear PDM, make a bottle stopped bracket and run some fuel lines and battery cables and the rear fuel tank can go back in and boot should be more or less done with mounting all the important bits. Battery is a varley redtop 40. I opted for this over a lithium battery as I actually want some more weight over rear axle, so few extra KG from battery seemed like an easy way to get that. Chose a mounting bracket that will support a lithium battery if required, so easy to change in future if the need arises. Nitrous bottle is 2KG/5lb bottle from Wizards of Nos in the UK, only a baby bottle but got quite a few in this size from another project, so made sense to reuse and allowed for slightly tighter packing. I've got some really cool bits for the nitrous system, but I'll make a seperate post for those when they arrive soon. Washer bottle is just a generic kit from the interwebs, nothing overly special. However it does use a push type connection for the motor, can install the washer motor from a GR Yaris, so the pump acually has some balls to it, rather than a soft stream like most of these out of the box chinese washer motors are. Next on the agenda was the steering column. It was in total working order last time I used it, but now everything on the interior is black, a piece of unpainted rusted steel column could not be ignored. Now it's satin black so blends in a bit better with interior. Got the multimeter out and checked continuity across the clock spring and switches and all still working as intended which is great.

Oh hello again Well, it has been a year and not much progress has been made on the car itself. Between enjoying summer, travelling abroad and the SRD workshop being the busiest it’s ever been there hasn’t been many occasions where I could get the car out of storage to get any worthwhile progress on it. Goodwood 2023 The good news is that the extra time has given me time to save some pennies and allowed for a few extra features and some much needed project creep to set in. There been plenty of head scratching and changes to the plan, but as of writing this I have a fairly focused plan on how to get this project to the finish line, so hoping I can stick to it now. I have a few days over the Christmas break to make some progress on the car and get some updates written down again. So strap in and pickup from where we left off First off, let’s start with everyone’s favourite subject. Garrett G40-1150, sold. In its place is a Garrett G45-1500. Jumping up a turbo family to the G45. Although capable of 1500hp worth of flow, my aim with this turbo is to make 1000whp as consistently and with as little boost as possible. G40-1150 can just about do 1000whp but you have to run the bloody thing hard. As my engine package isn’t all that sexy, I am going to focus on less combustion pressure but more airflow from bigger turbine to get the power I need and hopefully keep engine stress levels as low as possible. I'll be happy if I can get around 1000whp with 23-26psi of boost on ethanol. The keen eyed amount you will have notced that Ashley the fabricator wizard started a SRD tubular manifold, using a T4 billet twin scroll collector. He has moved as much of the pipework on the manifold out of the way of the downpipe so we have a bit more room for activities for the straightgate and downpipe combo. But what about the lag from a larger turbo I hear you ask? Let me introduce my next secret weapon. The newly refresh R154 and associated parts have all been sold much to my dismay. In its place is an 8HP75 gearbox from a G series BMW. What sacrilege is this? Putting BMW parts in a Toyota? Oh yeah Toyota already beat me to that one. (Take note of the bits of the gearbox that need some cutting a shaving if you are wanting to put one of these into your supra) Having said that, I honestly think that the 8HP gearbox is one of the key elements to making the new MK5 supra and similar cars boogie in a straight line as much as they do. Once you are on boost, you don’t drop it on any boost on gear changes, changes are fast, ratio spread over 6 gears is useful, launching is fairly consistent due to torque converter and here in the UK parts & boxes are cheap and plentiful. Having fitted a number of 8HP variants to customer’s cars this year I was impressed with the results. I couldn’t find anyone brave/stupid enough to try and run 1000whp through a stock box to see exactly how many minutes it lasts, so I have volunteered myself as sacrifice on this endeavour. Will build box and converter accordingly as required in future if needed. Running this gearbox through a domiworks JZA80 adapter kit, which makes all of this a breeze to install, as plug and play as it gets. For gearbox control I was tied up between either using CANTCU or Turbolamik controllers. Both work well, but deliver in slightly different areas. I think for what I was the CANTCU will be a better fit. Having used CANTCU recently on a customer build and really love it, digging the OEM level drivability and should help keep box alive a bit longer as I can run an "intelligent" torque management strategy using the OEM gearbox trans controller to dictate what it needs from Motec on gearchanges and any other instances where box needs less torque than what the engine is currently producing. Either way, should be interesting as there is much data out there on the 8HP75 boxes yet, so will share my experieces soon hopefully. More updates tomorrow!

£25-35k maybe depending on condition, if its runs etc. old school ecu, boost controller and some other bits that may put people off from paying top dollah

Yeah extremely rare, I've been graced by its precense once. was a religious moment. good hunting

New bonnet insulation is the one, makes an engine bay complete. Dunno if you mentioned it or not, but try and find a new insulation for the rear firewall, that i think is discontinued but if you can get one you have won the game in my opinion.

he went and picked it up already lol, man was on a mission

the new owner just called me. hes wetting himself in excitment.

This year has been one of the worst times to sell in recent years unfortunately, lots struggling to shift decent Supra’s. so probably best you stick to your guns in terms of value and see if you get lucky otherwise might take a hit