Mike2JZ

Think we have some new and used ones in stock. Think your brother is stopping by this friday, can pass to him?

The main difference will be drivability and robustness. From what I remember the sprung versions will be easier to engage/slip but as they use a floating center hub which contains the springs, they are not recomended for drifters who are constantly kicking the shit out of their clutch as its more likely that the center hub unit will fail. For such clutch kickers the unsprung version does away with center hub design and each clutch plate has a hub built into it that contains no springs. Harsher to use as there is no give in the clutch plates, but will take more clutch kicking abuse. I've got a sprung ceramic in my car and its quite streetable, I have no issues sitting in traffic hill starts etc. I haven't had any failures either, but I only give my clutch the occasional kick.

HKS LA Twin Plate is about as quiet as it gets for a twin plate from what I've seen. As its organic though you will wear it out quickly with drag starts

I have used Xtreme twin plate both the 200mm and 230mm version on various cars and so far always had good results, happy to recommend. The 230mm twin organic clutch is the most "OEM" feeling of the Xtreme clutches I've tried. You will get a bit of clutch noise when disengaging the clutch as the plates will rattle, but pedal feel is smooth and light. The 200mm clutches that are non organic are also nice, but definitely focused more for track cars, more noise and more aggressive engagement. However I've had mine in my car for almost 3 years, nearly 15'000 miles and never had issues with holding the power etc. Can't say I've used a twin competition clutch before, but had issues with their single plates breaking and being aggressive to use.

The plug used is the same as 2JZ IACV plug. Pin 1 & 3 = Signal GND Pin 4 & 6 = 5v Pin 2 = PPS1 Pin 5 = PPS2

The load on the engine in first gear is less than the other gears, so its not unusual for the boost to come on a bit later. Even if the valves are working as intended, the gear itself is over fairly quick and the time for boost to be produced is less so it happens later relative to higher gears. Edit: I find this even more noticeable on UK spec turbo's as the steel wheels take a bit longer to spool anyway.

Yeah it's not a direct fit. I had to do the following to get mine to fit.. Make some 30mm spacers to sit in between the bulkhead and the pedal mount. This pushes it out far enough so you can get a decent amount of travel. Then remove the pedal stop and elongate the 3 mounting holes to 10mm. This will then allow you to reinstall the pedal mount slightly to the left of where it sits normally and will allow the pedal to hit the stop properly. You must have the pedal stop installed or something like it, otherwise if you overextend the pedal travel you will have issues with PPS signal going over 5v, and if you hit the pedal to hard with your foot it will pop the PPS arm off the pedal which is not ideal whilst driving! Wiring is as follows. Green = signal ground Red = +5v White = PPS signal 1 Grey = PPS signal 2 Also there are two 7mm nuts on the side of the PPS sensor. You can loosen them and adjust the sensor range like a TPS sensor. I had to adjust mine to get a good range of 0.5v to 3.8v on the ECU. If your signals go under 0v or over 5v then it can trip the ECU low/high voltage failure detection.

Anyone going tonight ?

I would say IACV VSV. Had a few with similar symptoms that are intermittent.

Used, but full working condition. Genuine Turbosmart ProGate 50mm. Comes with screamer pipe that routes behind subframe & comes with original box, extra springs etc. Has 1 bar spring fitted currently. Worked fine for me at 700hp level using borg warner, but struggling with boost creep on larger precision turbo. Ran the car with the wastegate completely removed and still overboosted so my issue was due to manifold design, but as I'm getting manifold reworked seemed rude not to upgrade to a 60mm for extra insurance. £380 Pickup from SRD or can quote for post.

Hola, This offer is only available until Friday 31st , if no takers will go back on my car, but if I can get a cheeky turbo upgrade in whilst my manifold is off then why not. Bought this turbo for my setup this year and its done 60 miles run in on dyno and a few pulls whilst attempting to map the car. Compared to my old borg warner setup, this turbo is so efficient that my manifold couldn't stop it wanting to boost creep beyond 2 Bar. So now manifold is off getting modified to accept a larger wastegate and second dump tube to combat this. Whilst conservatively mapping I only got as far as about ~5000 rpm. But already at this point the turbo was making over 600ft.lbs of torque @ 3800rpm and 540whp @ 5000rpm with 1.7 bar boost and no timing. So its certainly responsive, a bit too responsive for what I'm trying to do so looking to jump to a bigger turbo whilst I have everything in pieces. Turbo Specs HP Rating - 1100hp (crank) Compressor Cover: HP" cover featuring a 4" inlet/3" outlet Turbine: 0.96 A/R Open Scroll Compressor housing painted 2K Gloss Black & Has 76mm elbow already welded on to clear strut tower Basically the same as a 6870 Gen II but with a slightly larger turbine wheel, so should have less boost drop compared to 6870 on the high end. So grab yourself a deal for a basically new turbo. I'm asking £2000, so about £500 less than retail. Turbo is fully working, no shaft play, smoke etc. Has a custom hardline oil drain that can be supplied for £70 extra. Colllection from SRD or can quote for shipping to UK Thanks Mike

Just leave a note on the window sayings it an NA auto. No one will steal it then

https://www.toyota.co.jp/cmpnform/pub/co/grheritage_en I think its quite important that anyone who cares about the future of our cars takes 10 minutes out of their day and fill out a request form for some parts. They may do nothing, but as a community we should bombard them with requests, make it known that we intend future business. They will only want to provide replacements if they can make a return on their investments, and they can only gauge that from our requests. Use sites like http://www.japan-parts.eu/ or https://www.toyodiy.com/ to find part #'s for the parts you want.

Usually yes, as water pump requires cambelt etc to be off. So a bit rude not to do whilst you are there, unless your pump is relatively new.

Cruise control module plug. Most Supra's without it have that bit dangling in the engine bay, nothing to worry about

Sold

I am using ridox arches so cant comment on fitment for stock arch. Can recomend using willtheyfit.com to calculate how much further they will stick out compared to current setup, then go measure on your own car

https://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35920-How-To-Check-the-diagnostics-codes

Have you ever been in a big single 800hp+ supra? If you haven't then I recommend you do. Most people only have one answer, "when can i have it"

no i havent

Fronts are flush fit for OEM arches, fits over big brakes. Rear wheels will poke a bit using a stock arch,

Hi, Just upgraded to new wheels so have old set available. Specs Fronts: Japan Racing JR10 18, 8.5'' +25 Federal RSR 595 Semi Slicks, 245/35/18 Rears: Japan Racing JR10 18, 10.5'' +12 Federal RSR 595 Semi Slicks 285/30/18 Wheels are "Machined Silver" finish. They are about 3 years old, and have some curb rash and also some clear coat peeling/corrosion. Aesthetics aside, the wheels are straight & come with center caps. Tyres are a year old, only done 1000 miles with 5mm tread left on all 4, super sticky and put down 700hp with no issues. Forum Price: £500 for wheels and tyres. Collection from SRD or can quote for postage.

Using basic items is not a bad thing, some of the quicker BPU cars I've ever seen don't even use a boost controller, but the choice of parts on the exhaust side is just right so get the boost in the sweet zone without the risk of severe overboost. I would agree the way you have it setup is pretty safe and no issue continuing like it is. Your statement about higher boost on #1 will help the prespool of #2 is correct to a small degree. The prespool of #2 is mainly controlled by the EGBV (Bypass Valve), and once the valve is open there is a pressure differential + some exhaust gas which helps #2 come spin up. By having more exhaust flow you will help the #2 come on a bit quicker. The issue is that the stock ecu turns the EGBV on quite late, basically just before the transition. So the time in which the prespool is allowed the happen is quite narrow. Even if your #2 turbo spins a bit quicker when EGBV is open, there still isn't a large enough time for the #2 turbo to spool enough for there to be no dip in boost when the intake & exhaust gases are allowed to join during transition, especially if you are trying to hit 1.2 bar. The measureable difference that I've found is quite small. Interestingly when I take control of the solenoids directly using a standalone, I usually opt to opening the EGBV valve really early, like 2000rpm. Doing this, actually allows me to produce more boost on the first turbo (usually max 1 bar) as there is less exhaust restriction with the valve open, wheras normally you are limited to around 0.7-0.8 bar. Whilst having that benefit, the second turbo also gets pre spooled to it's absolute maximum potential (usually 0.5-0.7 bar). This figure makes sense as the stock turbo system is designed to run around 0.7 on the second turbo, so the pre spool valve sizing within the exhaust housing allows for about that much boost to be built, adding to why you dont really feel much of a transition on a completely stock car. I doubt I'll ever get round to it but it would be a good experiment to see if porting the EBV valve and some other parts of the sequential system would allow for more pre spool to occur, cause then you can have your cake and eat it. If you are not using an electronic boost controller, the rate at which boost is built, especially during the transition will be more progressive than an EBC which will hold the wastegate shut for as long as possible up until it reaches it's target boost. Hence why the "dip" can feel a bit more noticable. There is also something to be said about what FCD is being used. Hard to define what causes the differences, but usually HKS FCD causes a more aggressive transition then a Greddy/CW/SRD FCD. I haven't investigated in to much depth, but must be the way the HKS fudges the MAP signal which has a knock on effect on how the ECU decides when to operate the sequential VSV's.

Ok let's try this one more time. Last time I respond I promise. First let's define a boost controller. A boost controller is a device that can creative a positive gain in manifold pressure by manipulating air pressure delivered to a turbo wastegate actuator. A restrictor ring is not a boost controller. A restrictor ring increases exhaust back pressure, which will limit how much a turbo can flow. Imagine blowing through a small straw. Read what he said again. He isn't suggesting you use two boost controllers. He is suggesting that you use 1 boost controller. A manual bleed valve installed on the the wastegate actuator, creating enough of a leak that the first turbo will spool to 0.8 bar, then relying on the restrictor ring to keep his boost under 1.2 when his second turbo comes on. If he did not have the restrictor ring on the car, the second turbo will overboost quite a lot. The amount of "bleed" or duty cycle required from a manual or electronic boost controller will change between first and second turbo. Whilst operating on the first turbo you will require signifcantly more bleed to achieve a higher boost level than when you are on song with both turbos. You need more on the first turbo as the first turbo has all 6 cylinders pumping into it and has quite a restrictive exhaust setup to fight against, whilst there is more breathing room when second turbo is active hence needing less duty. Most electronics boost controllers aren't smart enough to make a distinction between first and second turbo operation and cannot vary their output to give you lots of boost on first and second turbo. Even scooter's example is a compromise, he chose to have more boost on the first turbo, then rely's on a restrictor ring to keep the system from overboosting on the second. As far as I'm aware the only electronics boost controller than can vary its output based on RPM & Speed is the HKS EV6 and EV7. The boost controller you just removed... When going BPU the transition from 1st to 2nd turbo feels more pronounced as you are asking the second turbo to nearly double what it does from the factory. Furthermore, the factory system does not prespool the second turbo to a sufficient amount to mask the transition. The only way to get the transition to actually go away is to increase the second turbo's prespool (though there is a limit to this), or delay the activation of the IACV VSV, delaying when the second turbo's intake stream joins the rest of the air charge. Just increasing boost to the first turbo is not a solution, it might just feel a bit better to the uninitiated. If you click the link in my signature, you can read about me prattling on about controlling the sequential system using standalone ECU's, and there you can see how I can get 1-1.1 bar of boost on the first turbo, followed by 1.2 and beyond on second. It has some information that you may like reading. So I see what you are trying to do and what you are trying to achieve. Unlike most friendly local mechanics, I literally do this kind of setup stuff specifically on Supra's day in day out for a living. So I can tell you with confidence that you are going about this completely backwards. Anyway, have fun.