Mike2JZ

There are many differences between UK and Jspec Supra. The biggest is that UK uses MAF sensor, Jspec uses MAP. For this reason alone, the Jspec ecu will not run a UK Supra. If you have a UK car, you will need a UK ECU. Pretty straight forward.

90119-10465 Can be found on this diagram. [url]http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/2002/supra/jza80-alfvz/4_291130_006_/powertrain-chassis/4802_front-axle-arm-steering-knuckle#9011910465[/url]

It'll be fine.

Will be fine for your turbo. Have done 1000bhp using 3.5'' before with no issues.

Either you aren't in 4th gear, or you have the wrong differential in the car.

Random, but have you got a turbo timer on the car?

Auto ECU's are frequently being sent in to us for repairs. Due to complexity of board(s), there is more that can wrong and they do. Shoot Lee P a message, he can get you a quote for repairs to ECU.

That hardline setup is a coolant return back to pump/rad for the heater core, IACV, TB etc, not a feed for the head. The water pump pushes coolant through the block & head internally before it returns through a few different paths back to the radiator. One route is using the hardline. So long as the main hardline return is used to return coolant from the head/heater core back to the rad, then all the auxiliary stuff like TB, IACV, Oil Cooler etc are in my opinion optional. From my own experience I have not noted any major difference in cooling performance regardless if I'm driving on the road, on the track or on a eurotrip doing 9 hour drives. I couldn't tell you what the difference would be in a few mm diameter difference between a GE & GTE hardline, but I don't think the GE causes any bottleneck. But if it makes you sleep better at night then just use a modified GTE hardline, it will work fine.

What you have painted in the imagine above is basically what the 2JZ-GE non vvti engines come with. They don't have the metal tube that goes around the block. So if you are able to find one from a GE you can install that and save yourself some aggro modifying your current one. For a few years now I've been running with a hardline from a GE without issue on big single setup.

Just to grab your attention, can't reply to your latest PM. empty some space in your inbox.

Don't forget that checking an autobox fluid level is unlike checking the oil level in your engine. There is a procedure that must be followed otherwise the reading dosent really mean anything. Process is outlined in repair manual. Whilst you are tampering with fluids, might as well pull the box and fit a V160. Only logical way around this problem

Looking for oem if possible.

Looking for shifter assembly from W58

Ideally black from a jspec. Let me know what you have.

Exhaust side is the same, you just need intake side for VVTI

I quite like the colour as they are, maybe just polish/chrome them as they are.

New r154 box from toyota is the best oem replacement I've found. New boxes are smooth and it just works, no messing around with aftermarket bs parts

Crank journals and bearings need to be dry when doing plastigage ideally. Also make sure your crank does not spin or move whilst doing it. If your crank is out of whack then your only options are to: Send it and pray Grind crank to next oversize (although many people frown on this) Get another healthy crank

Technically will run but not ideal. You seem to have uneven wear on the crank, may cause reliability issues in future.

Last I checked V160 is still a fully rebuildable box, just a tad pricey. Its not all doom and gloom lol. Good luck with sale Jon.

Yes they will be. You shouldn't need to grind them, just fit and measure.

NGK "R8" Coils

I might have one somewhere. I vaguely remember it, cant remember if I threw it out or not. Will check at workshop tomorrow.

Yeah keep the dizzy. It is essentially a crank/cam sensor. Works with Link ecu as is.

Easy enough to wire it in, but first I must ask what you are planning to regarding cam sensor? No point running crank sensor without a cam sensor to compliment it