Mike2JZ

Jspec GTE ECU will require the use of high impedance injectors. UK spec GTE ecu will use low impedence injectors & a resistor pack.

Typically you don’t have to do anything special, just bridge NSW and away you go. Auto ECU always do funny things on a manual car due to it missing any inputs from gear box. Your will also not make as much power as you could. Your best option is to plug in a manual UK ECU. Also, UK ecu’s are very sensitive to most types of error code. If the ECU detects a fault it is important that you fix the fault as soon as possible, otherwise you may be put in a limp mode, depending on the fault. Jspec ECU does not suffer from this typically.

For the box alone, probably somewhere between £500-1250. Depending on condition, history etc. If you can sell the box, clutch, prop and the other bits to make it plug and play then you can ask more.

W58 5 Speed

No worries. You can contact @Lee P from SRD. He can supply new starter relays if you need one.

Your next test is to do the following when you next cold start the car: 1) Turn key to ignition on, but dont crank. 2) Go to engine bay fusebox and bridge starter relay until engine starts. 3) If engine starts no issues then safe to say your issue is related to starter signal from barrel, starter relay and/or immobilizer. You can still order new starter relays from Toyota, or if you have a mate with a Supra just borrow his for some testing. If relay is not the problem, then you will need to investigate starter signal wiring and immobilizer. Does the immobilizer/alarm have some sort of cold start remote feature or something?

On a new healthy system, there shouldn't be any reason why there is a problem with the cold conditions seen in the UK. On a 25 year old car that's had its electronics modified, its more probable that temperatures could have an affect on the electronics. With cold conditions, most electrical systems on a car, specifically the battery and starter circuit will experience more resistance until circuits are warmed up. Though rare on a Supra, this could have a knock on effect with something you are seeing. I doubt it, but its possible. Hard for me to take a stab in dark as to what it could be specifically at this stage, but if you can report back what you find from diagnostics on starter circuit then could elude what area needs investigation. As a side note, from my own experience I tend to see issues on Supra's with starters relating to starter relays and immobilizers/alarms fairly regularly. Starter motor's rarely die all together, but can exhibit weird behaviors as they start to die.

If the engine does not crank. IE start motor does not spin when you command it to, then you can rule out anything controlled by Syvecs. The syvecs has no interaction with the starter motor. So dont waste your time checking any of the things I mentioned above. The starter signal is sent from your key barrel, down to an orange plug in passenger footwell, then goes to starter relay in the engine bay fusebox. You can do some very quick diagnostics on this. 1) Go to engine bay fusebox and remove the starter relay. 2) Get a piece of wire and BRIEFLY bridge the relay connections and see if starter motor kicks in. If it works, check that it works everytime you make the bridge connection. 3) If it works everytime then you now know that you have no problems between your starter motor and your fusebox, but you might have a problem with the signal from barrel or the relay itself. If bridging the wires doesn't work, then you could have faulty wiring or damaged starter. Supra's have a bad tendancy to have their starter motor relays die over time. A quick way of testing this is to turn the key to crank in quick successions one after another until the starter kicks. If this works, then replace starter relay and enjoy it starting on the button like it should. Otherwise, could be an immobilizer causing havoc.

Assume you mean the engine cranks but it does not fire? If it dosen't crank then could be unrelated to following. Heres a random list of things you can try. Make sure your battery and charging system is in good nick. If voltage to ECU drops below 9v whilst cranking then you will have issues as ECU will turn off. Assuming that's all good then the next thing to check is to see if your ECU is able to Sync the cam and crank signals whilst cranking. Depending on how this has been calibrated by tuner, the ECU will either be looking for a 360 or 720 degree sync before it allows any fuel/ignition events to take place. The way you can monitor this is by using sCal, connect to ECU and in top right of the screen you should see a variable called SyncState. As you crank the engine, you should see this variable changed to something along the lines of 360 > 720 > SYNC. If it's unable to sync then it will not show SYNC in this area and that will be your problem. If you can get your head around using Sview & Scfg to setup a logging profile and view the log after then you can also log this start up event and track what your syncstate is through there. If you suspect that you have a sync issue, in Scal you can check the triggerscope of your crank/cam signals by finding "view sync log" under Device menu. As the engine is cranking you want to see green lines indicated that your Crank & Cam signal are synced. If they are red, then that will again be the issue. If the tuner has setup any anti theft settings, make sure they are not kicking in when they shouldn't. In Scal, go to Gauge > Add > EngineEnable. Track this variable whilst cranking, make sure its says YES. Also check under Device -> Errors and make sure you don't have any sensor failures etc, as depending on the sensor and how its been calibrated it could disable the engine from starting. Failing all of the above, I'd go a bit oldschool on this. Manually check that you are getting spark & fuel then work backwards from there. Syvecs have a number of help files on their youtube channel that will go over the many aspects of how to use their software. Takes a while to get a grasp of it but will be a good winter project if you have nothing else to do.

I mean you could, but if you are having to run a shielded wire, then I don't see why you would use the OEM signal wire. Just use two core shielded wire and run it from the sensor down to the ECU. You must make sure that signal and ground wires are shielded otherwise you can get very bad electrical interference.

2 Wires needed for Bosch knock sensor. 1 Wire to Knock Signal, other wire to sensor ground. Ground shield wire to chassis or power ground. Polarity does not matter. If you are running two knock sensors, you can have them share signal ground and shield ground. Knock signal must be independent.

What fuel pump are you running? Sometimes aftermarket pumps can put too much draw on the factory fuel ecu and cause issues like this. Personally I wouldn't try to repair it. Just replace it with a relay, or another second hand unit.

Nice idea, unfortunately that won't be possible. Link thunder can only use fuel or ignition cut with timing retard in order to manage traction. And from my own experience this is more than enough to keep your Supra pointing straight. Even if you wired the sub throttle motor and sub throttle TPS, you wouldn't be able to directly control them using any of the functions that the Link comes with to achieve what you are after. You can however use the stock inlet with the sub throttle inactive with no issues though.

Not really.

Thats going to need some serious repairing, not sure I could stomach that. You are doing gods work!

Disapointed to see your engine is not located in the living room anymore You have a lot of patience to remove all that sound deadening, not an easy task.

Depends how old the current water pump is. If its never been changed then probably worth doing as the cambelt needs to be off anyway.

You should expect a good increase in power & torque assuming the turbo is still able to pump air effiecietly at those boost levels and there are no restrictions on intake/exhaust. Again, hard to say ahead of time exactly what to expect from your turbo. I don't have any other dyno data with your exact model of turbo, but we have seen smaller borg warners run out of effiency after 1.5 Bar of boost before, so its possible that could happen. 19's are usually worse for grip. Are you still running a 4.1 ratio diff? That won't be helping your traction issues. You will want to change that diff ratio if you are going to a 6 speed box otherwise gears will be very short. What tyres are you running? Normally around the 600whp range its usually worthwhile to start running a semi slick of some sort. Normal road "sport" tyres usually never grip with a big single coming on boost. Sticky compound is more effective than a large tyre width for grip. Personally on your turbo I wouldn't bother forging the engine if everything seems to be healthy on it.

Reliability on a stock engine is always a bit of a coin toss, but considering you rebuilt it recently then it should be fine with more boost. I think with 2 bar your turbo should do somewhere between 550-600whp with ~700-750nm of torque. On paper these numbers are safe enough for a stock engine to be reliable for a while if used on a road car. The problem you might experience with running 2 Bar is intake temperature & resistance to detonation. 2 Bar will get things hot quickly and cylinder pressure will be higher, so might be easier to detonate normal fuel. Dyno testing will reveal if running less boost and more timing gives healthier power, rather than lots of boost but reduced timing to counter any detonation. Hard to say what it will do ahead of time. How you drive you car will also add or reduce reliability. Doing the odd pull at 2 Bar will be fine for the engine. But if you beat the shit out the car everytime you use it, then more boost will increase chance of something wearing out or breaking. I'm usually of the opinion to go for the safe maximum limit and see what happens lol.

Looking good!

Thanks guys. Here's some more info on the reasons for the build and some of the data gathered. For the last few years I’ve been tinkering with using 1JZ heads on 2J bottom ends. Initially this was due to a cost saving whilst having a rudimentary 1JZ single turbo setup with a blown bottom end. This current iteration is my 3rd engine. Initially I started with a budget spec build (380rwhp), then OEM+ (500rwhp) and now onto fully forged setup. There has always been a debate on the pros & cons of using a 1JZ head, and I set out many moons ago to try and gather some data that I could relay back to community from experience rather than hearsay. From my own experience I had seen that previously 1.5JZ’s always struggled to hold power at high rpm, even with cams, aftermarket inlets etc but never had the chance to see one that was a hardcore build and compare that to another hardcore 2J build, whilst on the same dyno. But now I can! So, for the third iteration of the build I set out to shed some light on the following: 1) Build a high compression 1.5JZ using a stock port head and stock valves. Equip the engine with an unrestrictive intake/exhaust setup, and then use alcohol to push the setup to a safe maximum limit and see if the point at which the head becomes restrictive can be identified. 2) Identify expected behavior of what you could expect to see between using a 1.5JZ versus a 2JZ. 3) Typically we see 6870 turbo struggle to hold target boost (2Bar+) after 7.5k rpm. Using an exhaust gas pressure sensor mounted on the exhaust manifold, could a noticeable difference between a 6870 and a 6875 precision turbo be identified. Is this problem related to compressor efficiency or exhaust pressure or both? 1.5JZ VVTi Performance versus 2JZ VVTi Example A Both engines using stock inlets, both with cams. Same gear ratio's used. This is at 1.8 Bar of boost on pump fuel. Both graphs are fairly similar. Spool is essentially the same, however you can see the 1JZ continues building torque where the 2JZ starts leveling off. However, after 6'000rpm you can see the 1JZ is starting drop torque fairly quickly compared to 2JZ, and the power is on the decline as well. The 2JZ on the other hand looks like it wants to keep making power if it was allowed to rev higher. This was a stock bottom end 2J so limiter was sensible around 7000. Example B My 1.5JZ versus Luc's 2JZ VVTI with headwork & aftermarket inlet. Both engines are running 2.3 Bar on Ethanol fuel. Both using the same gear ratio. At this sort of boost level we can really start to see the differences in an unrestricted 1.5JZ versus 2JZ. Spool is again fairly similar, but the 1.5JZ makes ~200 ft.lbs more torque when target boost is achieved and similar again for peak torque on both engines. What we could start seeing on the last graph is really obvious now. The 1.5JZ is done making power at 7k, wheras the 2J is just starting to warm up and starts pulling for another 1500rpm. I found it interesting that both engines make the same power at the same boost, as they should have similar airflow being provided by the turbo. But the way that each engine processes that airflow is quite cool. 1JZ VVTI Head Conclusion I'm quite pleased with the results from this experiment. I think the stock head does well for what it is, but its obvious that the smaller head chamber volume & smaller exhaust ports are geared towards providing airflow velocity and torque lower down for its designed 1JZ displacement. Once strapped to a 2J, its clear to see that the engine can get the air into the engine quickly and effieciently, but struggles to get the air out once the RPM increases, choking itself and causing a bottleneck. I might revisit the head at some point and go extreme with porting and valves and see what that does to the setup. But I have a feeling that the 1JZ head still won't flow as well as a 2J that has similar porting. The design of both heads will be hard to change even with a lot of porting. Have yet to see a 2JZ using a 3.0 bottom end come close to matching the torque output of this setup. The only 2J that has matched its torque with similar boost is a 3.4 stroker 6870 build. So I guess the take away from this is that if you want a responsive high torque midrange setup, then a 1.5JZ is a nice way to go. Probably why its so popular with drifters, its essentially a stroker than can be put together fairly frugally without having to go to a 3.4 build. Just be sure to have a budget to beefen your driveline, high torque output will takes it's toll. For performance under 7000rpm 1.5JZ can match and sometimes exceed 2JZ performance, depending on what parts are used on build. If you want to make your power at 7500 rpm or more then 2J is still going to be leading the way. Precision 6870 GEN II versus 6875 GEN II A problem we have seen at SRD with 6870 GEN II turbo is that after ~7500rpm, the wastegate solenoid duty has to be increased in order to maintain a target boost of 2 Bar or higher. After 8000rpm the wastegate duty basically maxes out and we start dropping boost, eventually back to around 1.8 Bar. If you run more than 2.2Bar of boost then the problem becomes even more noticable at high rpm as the boost drops off even more aggressively. To some degree this is expected as 6870 is only a midframe turbo with what is a fairly small compressor. Modern turbo tech allows such a small wheel to push out 900whp without much fuss and even 1000whp if you really wind it out. But there is a limit to all good things. So I decided to grab a 6875 GENII turbo for my build and stick an exhaust pressure sensor on the manifold as well as a pre intercooler temperature sensor in order to have some vague idea on what the compressor and turbine effiency might be doing. The idea was that maybe the extra 5mm on the turbine side would help alleviate any potential exhaust backpressure issues experienced on the 6870's smaller turbine. One thing I didn't envision whilst planning this was that the 1.5JZ wouldn't want to make much power after 7k, so my results aren't going to be a good comparison to a normal 2J build that revs to 8k or more. However there is still some interesting data. The below is a snapshot from a log done at 2.3 Bar of boost. Between 3500-6500rpm the exhaust pressure is less than my intake manifold pressure. This is great, it means the turbo is not fighting a restriction to make power and is an indication that efficient power is being produced by the rest of the intake/exaust system. After 7000rpm you can see the exhaust pressure goes higher than intake manifold pressure. Now we start moving into the realms of the turbo having to work harder for its power. As my rev limiter kicking in around 7500 the MAP/EMAP ratio at this point is ~1.05. Which to be fair is still pretty good, the turbo isn't working too hard yet. Unfortunately there is where the restriction on my head starts kicking in and I can't produce anymore power, so I don't rev it any further. However one could make the reasonable assumption that with another 1000rpm, the exhaust pressure will continue to rise. Until eventually the turbo has too much backpressure to work against and we start dropping boost. One would also assume that if Precision designed their turbo's well, that the efficiency of the turbo compressor would also start to tail off at around the same point where they expect their exhaust pressure to start rising beyond a wanted level. Was hoping to awnser that question for certain but will have to drop these sensors onto another setup and try again in the future. Overall from what I've seen on my setup and a few others. I don't think the extra $100 on a 6875 is worth it, not on a high revving 2JZ at least. Results are very similar to 6870, which is still king when it comes to power output vs response for a street turbo. If high RPM horsepower is your goal, better off going to a 7275 or larger. Hope you enjoyed that massive wall of text. Shall try to get some video's up as well soon.

Could we have a section or thread along the lines of "Forum Questions / Requests / Feedback". Just made a new thread and missing a few features we used to have, none are super critical by any means. I'm sure as everyone starts exploring through the forum it might be useful for there to be an area where we can discuss such questions etc.

Specifications Full spec list can be found here: Clicky Summary of the important parts Engine Type 1.5JZ VVTi Single Turbo 10:1 Compression Ratio (Estimated 9:5:1 Dynamic Compression) Engine Spec Stock Head, Ports & Valves (1JZGTE VVTI) BC 272 Camshafts with Titanium Springs & Retainers 2JZGE Block with Manley Turbo Tuff Rods & Manley 87mm Platinum Pistons Stock Crank & Stock Main Caps ARP Hardware for rods, mains, head, flywheel Turbo & Intake Precision 6875 Gen 2 DBB 0.96 A/R Open Housing Stock 1JZ Inlet with 76 Hitachi DBW throttle Fuel System ASNU 1500 Injectors PHR Triple Pump Hanger with 3 x 485 Pumps Exhaust 4’’ SRD Downpipe & 4’’ Dual Box Whifbitz Catback S/S Modified Walton 1JZ T4 Open Scroll Manifold Turbosmart 60mm GenV Progate Wastegate with 1.3 Bar Spring (Recirc) Driveline Late Style R154 with PGS Dog engagement HD Gearset Xtreme 230mm Rigid Twin Disc A03B Diff (3.26) with OS Giken Superlock ECU Syvecs S7+ All the sensors. Dyno & Mapped Mike SRD Maximum Power Figures on Shell Vpower 1.7 Bar 671 RWHP (~750BHP) & 666 ft.lbs torque Estimated 12% Driveline Loss with SAE Correction Maximum Power Figures on VP C85 Ethanol 2.3 Bar 905RWHP (~1010BHP) & 875 ft.lbs torque Estimated 12% Driveline Loss with SAE Correction Wastegate - Shell VPower 1.7 Bar - Shell VPower 2.3 Bar - VP C85 Ethanol Will have a follow up post with a write up on some of the goals, testing done and some neat data on this setup for anyone interested in my ramblings. Big thanks to Lee P who helped get me over the finish line with the build.

Thank you for your effort on this. I can only imagine how much of a ball ache this was. New forum is slick. I like it

EU ECU should run UK car. There might be some differences still between the mapping of EU vs UK as part numbers are different, I don't know exactly whats different though.