Mike2JZ

All in the name of science and data lol! I looked for it, but gone with the wind. Yes I have a copper tube that runs off the manifold collector, coils around itself a few times before going into a T1 Race EMAP Damper which a 5 bar map sensor is screwed into. Probably between 30cm-45cm of copper tubing. Works really well.

I've got a 4'' system on mine and even with twin box whifbitz 4'' its still loud and drony. Recently I did some logging with a bung stuck in backbox whilst using an exhaust backpressure sensor mounted in my exhaust manifold. To make a long story short. Driving off boost, there was no noticable change in backpressure whilst cruising, idling etc. So you have nothing to worry about there. There isn't enough exhaust flow to warrant any special attention under these conditions. As expected, on boost however the backpressure went through the roof. Along the lines of trying to blow through a very small straw. So not advisable to boost hard with a bung in the back as you are choking the engine. Also sidenote, don't use antilag with a bung in the back. Managed to break the bolts holding my bung in and blow it off into a nearby field whilst driving along lol. Wish I had the footage from that.

HKS FCON is a capable ECU, problem is that is getting a bit dated. Interfacing with the ECU can be troublesome because: a) It uses a serial connector, so hopefully you have a laptop with a serial port, or a good serial to USB converter. b) HKS only distributed tuning software to their approved dealers. So a lot of software that is out there has been cracked and/or is a dodgy copy. There are different HKS software available for different HKS hardware, so you need to find someone who has the right software for your hardwire. Advisable that you use a genuine HKS dealer if possible. c) Some older HKS ecu, I think under version 3.0 are japanese only and the software was next to impossible to use and find over here, so hopefully you don't have a really old ecu. Your AFR going lean like that could be the map itself not having enough fuel commanded in that area or you could have a mechanical issue like fuel pressure dropping. Or could be how they were measuring lambda on the dyno, could be inaccurate. Hard to say without more info.

Connect to the ECU in Scal by going to Device > Connect. Once connected sucessfully, go to File > Save. Then you can save a copy of the map

You can, but there won't be any fault that causes #6 injector driver to stay grounded. Not to my knowledge at least. Smells like a hardware problem to me. Either way I'm sure Syvecs Support can point you in the right direction.

Get in contact with Syvecs support, could be that the board is damaged and needs repairing?

So one of two things then: a) The injector driver on the ECU has failed and is sticking on (though I've never seen this happen myself) or b) Wiring has a split or fault, causing it to earth out constantly. Run a new wire from injector pin on ECU to the injector and see if issue goes away.

Get a testlight or multimeter on injector plug 6 and see if ECU injector signal is constantly grounded, compared to the other injectors. Could be that you have some bad wiring that is shorting somewhere and causing injector to stay open all the time. If this is the case run a new wire from ECU to injector and see if problem goes away. You can also log into Syvecs on your PC and perform an output test of all your injectors. See if all the injector solenoids sound the same whilst testing, if 6 sounds different then could be a mechanical failure of some sort.

Think you are overthinking this a bit. The biggest impact on power output on these sorts of builds is turbo compressor airflow output. The more air & fuel you can squeeze in the engine the more power you will make. Simple stuff. Most of these builds have very unrestricted and efficient motors setups, so the main deciding factor on power will be how aggressive you want to run the turbo & if you have enough fuel and mechanical strength to keep everything together. Typically we never run the turbo absolutely flat out, and scale it to an area we deem safe, which is why you will get some difference in power between builds, but ultimately they are all very similar as we are working within what the same turbo can deliver. Doms graph there is at 2.0bar not 2.5. His 2.5 graph goes to 1000whp with similar torque. Its very aggressive like that, almost undriveable. You can control the turbo's power delivery to some extent using boost & traction control strategies if required. QSV have reliability issues, so not a common mod that SRD uses. It might make some difference but on something like dom's car its a bit of redundant mod. As it is currently if you even breathe on the pedal you are on full boost immediately, so in the real world QSV probably wont achieve much. Makes sense to use on a non vvti 2JZ that has some laggy ass turbo on it that needs all the help it can get to improve boost threshold.

No quick spool valve. Just VVTi and fully built engine. Here's a decent indicator of what you can expect in terms of 6870 on different types of 2JZ. All runs done on TT6 cars in 5th gear (1:1). All have similar SRD engine builds, and all running ~2.0 Bar boost on e85. Red = Zach's 3.0 VVTI Blue = Dom 3.4 VVTi Green = Non VVTi 3.0 Peak power is comparable but response is vastly different. VVTi increases response like a stroker would to a non vvti setup. VVTi + Stroker = you win the game.

Yo. Personally I'd always try to run the highest octane fuel available in the mix. I haven't done any testing myself between 95 vs 98 mixed with ethanol, so can't comment to what degree the change in petrol octane would have on how much extra E% you would need to retain a higher octane level. It might not make any difference. From my experience running E85 direct from the pumps that has an unknown blend of petrol in it, I would assume that the octane rating of the petrol is not significant. I'd assume E85 from the pumps will be mixed with cheap petrol, it won't be high octane as goal of said fuel isn't all performance on modified cars, it's a cheaper/greener fuel alternative, used quite a bit for agricultural vehicles. Cheers

Sick car fam.

I wouldn't remove the rear heater hose just to change the valve covers gaskets, perfectly do-able with them still installed. However, I would say that once the valve covers are off that would be a great time to change the rear heater hose at the back of the head. Have seen a few of those rear hoses get hairline fractures and it's a real pain to change when valve covers stop you getting most tools where needed. When removing your cam cover washers & bolts you will notice that the washers will get stuck on the 4 studs that are on each corner of the the spark plug wells. Do not try and lift your valve cover out when washers are still on these studs as you can cause the valve cover to break. Take the time to get a flathead or some sort of pliers to remove the washers from the studs completely first, then remove valve covers. PCV valve can require quite a lot of force to remove sometimes, other times they just pop out. I personally wouldn't recommend removing unless you also have a replacement rubber grommet that the PCV valve sits in. If the original rubber is old I have seen that crack on removal of PCV.

hey welcome, get some photos up of your progress, nice to see an unique engine build

yes

There are ways to make 1000cc injector do a bit more than 600whp, but its never as good as just uprating the fuel system. But yes the power delivery and curve is far superior to 600whp on pump fuel, cleaner power with more area under the curve, just quoting the peak power doesn't do it justice. Take results with a slight pinch of salt, but I've found this calculator accurate within 100hp. HP Calculator (fuelinjectorclinic.com) I done a bit of tuning on my own car with water meth whilst doing e85 and didn't really notice anything worthwhile. Using just ethanol I was already able to max out my power output safely, so spraying meth on top didn't really achieve anything other than it being yet another variable that needed adjusting and integrating into the map (aka ballache). I'm sure there will be a setup out there where having both e85 and meth is useful, but I couldn't find it on my setup. I went from having a fairly large nozzle pre TB to now using the smallest one possible. In addition I T'd a new line that runs to pre turbo and uses a very small jet that sprays a fine mist of meth straight onto compressor. Using this setup I no longer am injecting enough water/meth to require any changes to my fuel map, but it's enough meth that it reduces turbo compressor outlet temperatures by 10-20C, and drop IAT's pre TB by 5-10C. So I went from using meth as a power adder, to now just using it as an aid to help bring temperatures down so I can keep beating the shit out of car for a bit longer. They make E85 specific o-rings for injectors that you can purchase. We normally install them if car runs primarily on E85 , if you use E85 once in a blue moon then normal rubber o-rings are fine. 9/10 times they aren't an issue.

A quick ebay search shows 2JZGTE aristo motors going for £4500-5250 currently. Rear sump prices are a bit crazy, one on ebay going for £650 lol. You can still buy them new for toyota less than that if you really need one. If you have a GE, and putting in a GTE from an aristo then I'd say its silly not to use the GE as a donor. You will need rear sump setup, engine mounts, AC compressor & a few other bits. If you don't have those parts already then you will easily spend a grand trying to buy those parts. Someone will still buy a GE even if it's been stripped off some of its parts.

Depends. From ethanol pumps in Europe I've seen a blend of about 70-80%, even though it's advertised as e85. I have seen similar ratio's from VP & Renegade e85 fuels. It probably is closer to 85% in the real world, but very hard to have a completely drained tank with no petrol content before you add your E85 to the mix. If e85 isn't enough then you can purchase E98/E100 blends from race fuel companies, or just use pure ethanol but be wary of the lack of lubrication as this can destroy fuel systems. That said, typically by the time you at E60-E70 you are getting the vast majority of gains from ethanol (det resistance, cooling effect etc). You will continue to increase these with more ethanol % but the gains are smaller compared to the first 70%, so unless you are running something pretty extreme it's not always needed to run more than E70 from what I've seen. On pump E85, running more than E70 doesn't always mean that you will make more power. So a target of E60/E70 will cover you for most applications whilst getting the most benefits from the fuel. Another deciding factor of how much % you can run is the fuel system. As E% increases the required fuel to be injected increases quite dramatically, so you will need to factor in things like bigger injectors, multiple high flow pumps, bigger fuel lines etc depending on what you are trying to achieve with your setup. I've had to limit the amount of boost a Supra can run on a few occasions whilst using E85 due to the fuel system not being up to the task. So owners in that situation need to be careful on what sort of blend they are running as its very easy to lean out if you are using a blend that the fuel system cannot support. This is just a rough guide, so take with a pinch of salt, but I've found that: Mixtures up to E10, require little to no modification of fuel system/map. You get some added det resistance and cooler running, but not advisable to run the engine any more aggressively that normal petrol map. Mixtures E10-20 require changes to fuel mapping but you can probably get away with on a "normal" pump fuel system assuming you aren't already running it on the limit. More cooling and det resistance, so you can squeeze 1-2more psi and maybe 1-2 degrees more timing than normal fairly safely. Mixtures E30 and beyond will require large changes to fuel system and a dedicated ethanol/flex tune. Depending on how much % you are running, then you can keep increasing timing/boost. If you have enough E%, then you can keep tuning until you find MBT, even under high boost with not much danger of det. On a supra with 1000cc injectors with a 450 walbro pump. I've seen fuel systems max out at around 600whp using a blend of around E30-E50. Also worth noting that a lot of racing e85 fuels will contain a mix of race fuel that is oxygenated in the 15% that isn't ethanol, hence why you can normally make more power using a race e85 fuel compared to pump e85. Finally. It really pays off to have a flex E85 capable ecu and fuel system. Rather than worrying about ratio's too much, just stick whatever you have in there and let the ECU decide how much power to give you that has been deemed safe & acceptable whilst it was tuned.

I mean you won't have to buy a new gearbox, so will save yourself 4-5k. You will still be around the 10k mark by the time you buy a GTE swap, then BPU it to give you 420bhp. You could probably do a cheap NA-T build, but then you will end up replacing most things so ends up costing more in the long run.

Budget 10k for a decent NA-T setup that will have all the hardware you need for 400-700hp that isn't using Chinese shit. Budget 4-5k for a decent transmission, propshaft & clutch. Excluding V160, unless you get lucky and find a cheap one. Budget 0.5-2k for a stock or aftermarket diff with correct ratio & LSD internals for whatever gearbox you run. It's a bit sad, but even these days starting with a Aristo VVTi engine and you won't be far off spending 10k doing a proper GTE swap unless you get some good deals along the way. Just for reference, recently at SRD we sold a customers complete 2JZGTE Non VVTI complete engine package, electronics, intercooler, etc etc. Everything needed for a plug & play swap (excluding gearbox). It sold for 8k. Can probably save a few grand if you do all the work yourself.

First, you will need some two wire shielded cable. Very important that these wires are shielded so the knock sensor signal does not get any sort of interference from other electronics. https://prowireusa.com/c-58-shielded-tefzel-cable.aspx 24 or 22AWG wire will be fine. Get around 4 meters so you have more than you need and you can cut the required length for each sensor. From toyota or the internet, grab two of these adapter studs. This will allow you to screw a stud into both knock sensor ports on the side of the 2JZ, then you can install your knock sensor to that stud. Tighten to around 15nm of torque. 2 Wires needed for Bosch knock sensor. 1 Wire to Knock Signal, other wire to sensor ground. Ground shield wire to chassis or power ground. Polarity does not matter. If you are running two knock sensors, you can have them share signal ground and shield ground. Knock signal must be independent.

Cool good decision, end result will be nicer for sure. There are a few members here with threads on how they wired up their ECUMasters if you want some inspiration / tips on what to do. Yes I do, and yes I can tune it. If you have any questions regarding wiring, sensors etc etc then feel free to shoot me a message and I can go through some of the details.

50K+ region at least. Couldn't get anyone to build this from scratch for less, definitely one of a kind in the UK.

If you are happy to use greddy emanage then it will work like you suggested. However the implementation is a bit messy, so there will be some issues that you may run into along the way. Wrong ecu for the engine, heavily modified engine setup + trying to patch it together using oldschool controller which will "fight" against the stock ECU at times. My advice would be to try and keep it simple to save yourself on unneeded ballache. But if you are looking for a good learning experience then you can always go ahead with it and see how it goes. Any standalone you can buy these days is more the enough to run a 2JZ and give you the flexibility to run almost any hardware combo you like without worrying about keeping anything from stock ecu happy. I named ECUMaster as they are the cheapest, but compared to a greddy emeanage piggyback it is lightyears ahead in terms of control & features. If tuning is what you are interested in and you want to learn more, then again a basic standalone that has a nice UI, modern support, modern control strategies, good logging features etc etc will be much more benefitial for your learning. As nice as eManage was for the the early 2000's, it's very limited as to what you can see and change, and there is some guess work as to how the stock ECU may react. When I did the eManage thing, I was happy with the result but ultimately was left wanting more from it.

Couple of things for you to keep in mind: a) 550cc top feed injectors won't work with a GTE ECU, in the sense that the mapping for the fueling will be all wrong, as the ECU is designed to work with 440's. The UK spec 550's are low impedance and side feed, so again won't work for you without using some sort of electronics to modify how the fuel is being delivered. You easiest bet to make this work hassle free is to use the OEM 440's, but then you will need to figure out how to use sidefeed injectors with your setup. I've seen a man on the internet use RB26 440's that are top feed, but can't comment how these actually ran the engine as I've never tried it, and you will need a resistor pack for these injectors to. b) When you wire up yaris coils you will need to trick the ECU into receiving an ignition verification signal, that it would normally receive from the igniter. Otherwise you will get a bunch of errors. There are guides online on how you can do this. c) My biggest recommendation for you would be to stop what you are doing though. Running an NA-T off a GTE stock ecu is pretty shit in the grand scheme of things, it full of compromises and a bit of a false economy. trust me been there and got the t-shirt. In this day and age, I think you are mad not to buy a cheap ECUMaster Classic standalone ecu, wire it into your existing loom. You can delete the dizzy whilst retaining your trigger electronics, run any coil or injectors you want and have full control of the whole package, rather than being at the mercy of the stock ECU on a frankenstein setup. With the way this setup seems like its going a standalone will be the better fit for what you want to achieve rather than trying to bend a stock ECU into working with stuff it wasn't designed to do.