Mike2JZ

Typically sensor manufacturer will publish something like this for the resistance of the sensor. This is for a standard bosch temp sensor The same sensor is expressed in volts like so: If you don't have a datasheet to get values from then you will need to test sensor manually by heating it up using hot air / liquid, using a thermometer to gauge temperature. Whilst doing this you can measure volts or resistance on the sensor and making note of the values as you increase/decrease temperature through the range.

Most IAT’s I’ve used are all 5v sensors that require a 1k pull-up resistor wired inline or built into ECU to read signal properly. I don’t often look at the data sheets with regards to the resistance of the sensor as most ecus I use read and display temperature based on volts. got any examples of what you have been looking at?

Recently bought two 2JZGE VVTi's for an upcoming project and don't need the cranks from either. Unsure on mileage as I bought engine from breakers yard, but both are in very good condition and presumably had an easy life being mated to an automatic GS300. Have included photos of the bearings that were pulled with each crank so you can see wear and tear or lack or. Have given each crank a quick clean for the photos, but before install I'd recomend a proper clean and maybe a polish. Cranks are STD size and unmolested. Will leave listing on the forum for a bit before listing on eBay as well. £400 each collected from SRD £450 each posted to mainland UK. Crank 1 Crank 2

Get an ETS for best performance

Those are garbage, you will struggle with IAT’s with that.

~30k ish

We normally have a few in stock at any given time. Best way to check is to email [email protected]

Sold

Heater matrix that in pretty good shape, been sitting around for many years not doing anything. Not blocked. Comes with associated pipework to drop straight in. £60 posted

Have had these sitting around for a few years, was going use on mine but likely never going to happen. As a front crashed Supra was about to be loaded onto a recovery truck to go to the eternal scrapyard, some friends and I grabbed a plazmacutter and cut the arches out just in case they would be useful for myself or someone else in the future. These will need some work to fit, but should be enough for anyone looking to replace their damaged rear arches. £300 collected.

Americans won't go anywhere near 900hp on log manifold without ethanol, so take that into consideration as well. On our pump fuel detonation & heat will be major restrictions in making power.

Sensor placement in manifold & depth of the sensor into the runner etc will all have an effect on EGT reading. So take with a pinch of salt when reading people's online. On my car typical readings whilst on petrol. Warm Idle: ~400-500C Cruise around town: ~500-600C Sustained motorway driving for a few hours: ~650-750C WOT: 800-950C Every setup will be differnt but for idle and cruising you should never have to worry about EGT. I've leaned mine out a ton whilst cruising and couldn't get my EGT to dangerous levels. So long as you have enough timing in cruise areas, you will be fine in most cases. Obviously if you can make your manifold cherry red whilst cruising then you might have to reconsider your tune up or hardware combo. I typically only worry about EGT whilst got WOT. 800-900 is acceptable depending on boost level. Once I get close to 950 then I get ECU to cut power, or add fuel etc blah blah. @supradanturbowas having major EGT issues on his old log manifold with big boost on pump fuel. His wasn't NA-T but similar principle to the whifbitz kit. Can't realy get around the physics of high flowing 2J meeting small port exhaust manifold. It's gonna produce more heat then its worth at a certain level. I've yet to push an NA-T log manifold to the limit yet, but I'm gonna bet that 600whp will be the maximum on pump fuel.

Are you on ECUMaster as well style?

Looks nice! Enjoy

Not sure how you are arriving at 9.7CR Let's talk about the blocks contribution to static compression first. GE and GTE are the same thing in terms of stroke/bore/crank/piston to deck clearance etc etc. The only difference when it comes to the factory bottom end is the pistons. GTE piston is domed and GE piston has raised section in middle to bump up compression. So if you stick an aftermarket piston which is rated for 9:1 and you dont have any additional piston/deck clearance, then your bottom end will contribute around 9:1 compression to the equation. Now let's talk about heads & gaskets. The only way you are going to get accurate numbers on the following is to get your head's combustion chamber volume measured whilst it's off as it will change depending on combinations of hardware used. However for this example, let's use some common values for 2J head chamber CC that the internet dishes out on a quick google search. 2JZGTE head combustion chamber CC typically around 44-45CC 2JZGE head combustion chamber CC ranges from 42-44CC. So if we use these head CC values, paired with a 9:1 bottom end, with a TT headgasket you get the following: 2JZGTE Head with 9:1 bottom end + TT Headgasket CR = ~8.96 CR [45cc] to 9.1 CR [44cc] 2JZGE Head with 9:1 bottom end + TT headgasket CR = ~9.0 CR [44cc] to 9.36 CR [42cc] I know this is a broad example and real world results will vary slightly, but with these combo's of parts you will be closer to 9.0 CR then you would 10.0 CR. 9.0C CR is perfectly boostable on pump fuel and will do 600whp with ease. So with this in mind, in most cases the OEM headgasket is going to be ideal. Larger headgaskets work, but I'd usually avoid unless absolutely necissary. Far better to control CR via headwork and piston choice imo. Plus we are only debating static compression, which is relevant. But once the engine is spinning and depending on the cams, overlap, cam settings and other headwork done, the dynamic compression of the engine may make the engine act like it has less compression then it has statically. But that's a whole different discussion. Back to the OP. If you want 600whp, then you may struggle on whifbits NA-T kit and your current fuel system. I'd recomend FIC1000 injectors, 264 or larger camshafts, a Borg warner S366/S369 or Precision 6870 and possibly a different exhaust manifold, something tubular.

Put an oem TT head gasket. Will be fine

Don’t have any good pics but I mounted my oil cooler in front of the rad

It's the door tweeters. Easily worth 100k more than any other supra for that

I normally do the same and repin the factory map sensor to a Link one, never had an issue. Even from factory it uses 5v supply. I'm not sure to be honest, not sure I've had to check resistance on map sensor circuit before.

Ok you have a few weird things going on: a) You aren't creating enough voltage on the trigger scope to get a really clean signal due to only being able to crank engine. That said, your CAM signal looks reversed compared to what is should be like: Notice how your cam signal drops down before rising back through the 0v line. The cam trigger on 7MGTE CPS should look like: Notice how the signal goes up before falling through the 0v line. This is normally due to incorrect wiring, need to swap trigger 2 signal and signal ground, in order to reverse the polarity on this signal. If you aren't sure what to do, please write with as much info as you can how you have wired your 7MGTE CPS, what pins on the CPS to what pins on the ECU. And what pins you wired your crank sensor to. I'll see if I can guide you from there. Once you have swapped polarity you will need to redo your trigger offset settings, although the Link base map settings should be close if all is in order. Your trigger arming voltages look fine. Maybe change 1000rpm cell to 0.5v if you have a bad battery, but typically not needed. b) Towards the end of your log, the MAP sensor shoots to 2 bar and triggers the ECU to hit a map limit and cut all fuel. I don't have an reasonable explanation for this, unless you have some weird wiring for your MAP sensor. According to your ECU statistics, you have hit the map limit 150 times. Which is odd considering the engines never started haha. So maybe need to look into what could be causing map sensor to glitch out. Otherwise things on the map look about right to get a 2J started, normally they start even with awful non optimized settings in it. Troubles with starting are 9/10 a trigger issue. I don't know what injectors you are running, but if they are big then maybe consider pulling out 20-40% fuel out of crank enrichment and warm up enrichment. If they are smaller than 700cc then you can leave current settings. Also reduce your startup offset table to something more sensible like 20. If the engine fires with 100 offset, then it will rev its tits off.

Send me a copy of your log, map and trigger scope. something dosent sound right still

The link only requires the use of one cam input, so won't make a difference if you have both wires in, but it is possible you have them round the wrong way. Are you using a plug and play unit or a wire in? Assuming you are using SupraLink P&P then make sure your wiring matches the above assignments. If in doubt about cam signal, try one and a time in B25.

I saw your thread on the link forum and the video of the car trying to start. Sounds to me like your wiring for cam signal is wrong, even though ECU is syncing sounds like its trying to fire 180 out and you are getting excess fuel from inproper combustion. There are two cam signals G1 & G2 on distributor setup, try wiring the other signal in and see what difference that makes. If you are flooding your engine everytime you are trying to start it, then I'd advise you to switch Crank Enrich map to 3D and set Y axis to TPS. Set 100% tps to 0 crank enrich, that way you have a flood clear. So you can floor it whilst cranking and the ECU wont inject fuel and can clear out what is in cylinder.

It shouldn't cause any damage, never had any issues becaues of it. Once you have the engine running like it should you probably won't have any issues with it again, so I wouldnt worry too much about it, just focus on getting the engine running and not flooding itself.