Mike2JZ

I guess it depends what state you are starting in (open vs closed) But essentially you want to give 12v to Orange whilst grounding Green for motor to move one direction. Then do Orange to Ground, 12v to Green to move motor the other direction.

Yes I forgot to mention both of the above datasets are using IAT sensor plumbed before the throttle body using fast reacting IAT sensors. This area will generally be cooler as it wont have the same heatsoak as stock inlet manifold and provides a much better indication of intercooler outlet temps, even though intake air temps will be affected slightly by the inlet manifolds heat as it passes through into the cylinders. HKS/Greddy FMIC's tend to be of good quality from everything I've seen so far, normally they provide a decent cool to the charge.

Here you can see the performance difference. This is over 1 fifth gear pull on the dyno. Similar ambient conditions, same IAT sensors used, same boost targets, same turbo's. Both runs are around 5-6seconds long. 5'' Whifbitz ~ 16C Degree Rise over 1 Pull 5'' ETS ~ 1-2C rise/fall throughout run. EDIT: (Also you can actually see where the turbo is working efficiently and where it starts to blow hot hair as it leaves its efficiency, which is cool) From my own testing on my car with the same turbo, I've logged that with around 1.8 bar of boost, the turbo compressor outlet temperature is usually around 110-120C from the moment the turbo comes onto full boost. Keep that in mind when looking at the above IAT data. If I had to summarize each product: WhifBitz Pros Cheap Fits Well Does not suffer from pressure drop between inlet/outlet Is big enough to flow 1000bhp+ without bottleneck Heatsoak recovery rate is moderate. Cons Density of fins not dense enough to provide a huge cooling benefit over a large period of time Easy to heatsoak ETS Pros The best air-to-air intercooler performance I've ever seen used on a Supra in terms of cooling the air charge, especially for the big power guys. Fits like a dream Customizable when ordered for different inlet/outlet sizes etc. Signficantly longer time before heatsoak is an issue Does not seem to suffer from large pressure drops, but I dont have data on this so cant confirm. I suspect it isn't a problem though given the cars I've tuned with them so far. Heatsoak recovery rate is fast Cons Expensive as it has to come from USA The above translates to their 4'' models from what I've seen as well. The denser/colder you can keep your air charge, the more power you can make and the less detonation you are likely to experience. For me, this statement is what its all about, but I'm very much a performance orientated person/tuner and always want to maximize efficiency. That said my own car has a whifbitz 5'' cause I was broke after my last build and paying peanuts for a large intercooler saved me and I worked with it, but its on the cards to get replaced with an ETS for the next build. There is definately a place for the both of these products in the market. Many people dont drive their cars hard enough or frequently enough on the road for heatsoak or adverse affects of high IAT's to be an issue, so why pay a premium for an intercooler that wont be used. Others who are more performance orientated should only really be considering the ETS, but it comes at a price like all good hardware. Is the ETS worth the extra cash? Most definately. @Burna Burna can relay his experiences going from SMIC to an ETS 4'', but I think me and him both get slightly hard every time we look at his IAT's now compared to what they were like before.

I knew the old old owner of this car. Thought it had disapeared into the nether, cool to see that its still going!

Obviously a low mileage (10,000km or less) stock car is the holy grail and will always command the most resale value, but at this point these types of cars talking maybe 2-3% of the overall worldwide Supra market. I have seen plenty of fairly stock-ish Supra's come through the workshop that for lack of a better word are just tired. We are almost hitting the 30 year mark for some of the early models, and its starting to show. Although on paper the stock cars might be more desirable and may even sell for more to the uninitiated, its not uncommon for some of these examples to need a lot of restoration work to bring them back to the standard they should be at, especially if they have been neglected. Common areas that need attention is the engine & gearbox, seals & rubbers, suspension & chassis, paint and odd bits and pieces with regards to interior and wiring. I can guarentee that if you bring me an "alright" stock supra thats been driven rather than stored for 20 years, I can find at least 30k to spend on restoring it without any type of modification work. Recently I saw a Supra that had been "maintained" by Toyota UK for its whole life and it was a shame to see the state it was in, completely letdown by the dealerships! But on paper, I'm sure most sellers/buyers would wet themselves over such a maintanance history. Although not majority, there are quite a few very tastlefully modified Supra's in the UK that I know of, that got a full restoration as a part of their modification package. So whilst being able to boast a huge power figure, they are also in tip top condition with regards to the rest of the car. For me, these types of cars are worth every penny and can stll command eye watering prices. There are a few out there that I would take over a stock car that isnt mint, regardless of what the market price might dictate. On average I think most Supra's regardless of modifications fall into the category of being mostly working, fairly solid cars but all with their own qwerks and age related issues. A lot of the issues I see are mainly from DIY'ers doing their own work that then cause other issues that they choose to ignore or are ignorant to the issue. Luckily these cars were engineered to be fairly stout from the factory. There is also a shift happening currently between older Supra owners who bought their cars for 5-10k back in the good days and new owners that are paying 40K+ to join the game. The price of restorations are getting more expensive as parts are harder to source and in some cases is pricing out the older owners. It wont be long before a good example thats been mostly restored to a good level is going to demand £80-100k To the OP. If you can get a fresh import, then thats usually a good thing. Most JDM exports are in a lot better condition than most UK based Supras that Ive seen, even though some japanese owners do like doing some wacky modifications from time to time. Assuming you get lucky and the engine is in good nick still then you can probably do a single conversion that will do 500-700ish for around £10-20k depending on parts used and labour etc. If you are on the autobox then you should limit yourself to around 500-550hp area to try and keep it reliable, which will also be better for the engine in the longrun. Do not. I repeat, do not put a BMW 6 speed into your car. Although these boxes are functional, they are noisy, feel like shit and don't drive anything like a well sorted V160 car does. If you want to lose value on your car put one of these boxes in, otherwise leave it auto or fit a V160. At least these days we now have a options with regards to V160 rebuilds, so I actually dont mind recomending it. I believe rider is correct that factory TT auto's, like all Supra will go up in value forevermore. The rate at which their value continues to increase is hard to predict, but they certainly wont be getting any cheaper. If your car is going to actually be mint across the board, then doing a small single wont detract much from future value, especially if you modify it in a way that is reversable and hang onto the old bits.I have spoken with many owners who have basically made back what they have spent on modifications given the current value of their cars should they sell. So it's definately a possibility. My other advice would be to take the car to a specialist like SRD and give it a once over once you've taken delivery. There is a list of common problems with these cars that are fairly easy to spot to a trained eye. A roadmap of what is actually good and what needs improving if always nice to have, even if its not soemthing you do immediately. Good Luck

Nice video, nice to know how much it costs. I don't think thats a bad investment given how unique this car is now. Think I'd prefer this over an ebay spec NA-T

ITS REALLLY GOOD!!! WHAT DID YOU SAY?

Good on Max, proper driver won that one.

No problem. One correction to above, if you use the radium fuel rail, they can provide an FPR that fits into the end of the rail, so you wouldn't need an external one.

Fairly typical spec for what you are asking for, with room for growth without having to change every part on the car looks like: - FIC1000 or ID1050X Injectors. Don't bother with anything less than 1000cc. These two injectors are tried and tested at SRD, idles mint & enough fuel for ~800bhp on pump fuel. - Link 4 Bar Map Sensor - Link IAT Sensor (plumbed in pre TB) - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump (One of these is enough for ~800hp on pump fuel) - Aeromotive Compact Regulator are really nice, super reliable and easy to hide. - Radium Fuel Rail with Pulsation Dampener (assuming you are using stock inlet still) - AN6 Braided fuel lines from fuel filter to rail -> FPR -> factory return hardline - Link CAN Lambda or AEM 30-0310 X-Series Inline Wideband UEGO AFR Controller - Fuel & Oil Pressure/Temperature Sensor (Bosch PST-F 1 is a great sensor of good value which can do both pressure & temperature from the same port!) - Link XS Loom (So you can connect your new sensor to this without cutting up factory loom) - Forget the SMIC if you want 600hp, every single one ive tried is shit for a big single that actually gets driven, one big pull at the IAT's are molten. Do not spend big money on a uprated SMIC if you are going big power. For a quality item use ETS 4'' FMIC which will be the best performance you can buy for the 500-850hp segment, if you are on a budget throw in a 4'' Whifbitz FMIC. - Uprated clutch, V160 Spec Stage 3+ is a fairly OEM feel clutch that can support 800hp. S366SXE turbo will do around 525-550 whp on stock cams with around 1.6 bar boost. UK Camshafts are ok, but not really that different from any other factory 2JZ camshaft in the sense that after 6k rpm the head will not breathe any more, so peak power will be around 6 then slowly die off, regardless of what turbo you stick on. So if you want the car to rip your tits off till 7k, then cam/inlet change will be required.

Clean F1 racing is super boring to watch, like watching paint dry, fastest cars to the front by a lap after 10 minutes and some midfield whatevers battling it out. Basically just wait for DRS down the straights and do a boring overtake, exciting stuff. Max might be a prick but the last few races have been nail bitters due to antics. Hasnt been this on the edge of things for a few years now. Mercedes & Redbull are just as bad as each other in my opinion for playing games. Reality is that Mercedes has the better car, so Redbull is gonna be forced to play dirty to catch them out unless they get lucky on strategy. Can't wait for the internet to explode on the next race.

Yeah thats super tight across the board. Quick sanity check, you are definately measuring in mm and not inches correct? To fix this: You will need to take cams out, and measure each shim in each bucket then calculate what shim you will need to get you back into spec. Potentially you will have a few shims that you can swap around in order to reach your desired clearance, however I'd hazard a guess that you will be needing at least 10 shims that are signficiantly smaller than what you already have. You can buy shims still from Toyota, but they can add up quick. This is a really useful caluclator that you can use designed for the 2JZ valve clearances: click me Seeing that photo you sent me the other day of the burnt valve & possibly valve seat I might be tempted to do the option below, as this option wont fix any damage with valve seat. Or Take head off and drop it off at a machine shop who can inspect/fix valve seats of any damage and recut the valves in. But most importantly, they can grind the tops of your valve down to reach the clearance that you are after so you dont have to change any shims. If you go down this route give me a shout and I'll give you the details of the guy SRD uses for that sort of work.

If its leaking pre filter then likely a corroded hardline for fuel feed or return lines going under the car. In which case I'd probably just change with a braided fuel line being run straight from the fuel hanger.

1) Put crank at TDC. I normally do this by aligning the timing belt crank sprocket line marking with the circle dot on the oil pump. Same as you would on non Vvti. 2) on Vvti pulley rotate the pulley fully counter clockwise so it’s in its fully relaxed state, then align the line marking with upper timing cover marking. 3) on exhaust pulley align line mark with upper timing cover marking 4) install belt as normal

The S362, S364, S366 & S369 all share the same dimensions for compressor housing. So likely won't fit if the 366 had issues. BW compressor housing's are always massive compared to garrett & precision of a similar sized turbo.

Link have their black friday deals on right now, if you are quick then you can save some money on a new P&P unit. Personally I'd go Link over Aem any day of the week

I think. Ignoring all good common sense, you should do the world a favour and build a 3.4 stroker motor with hybrid twin just for shits and giggles. Can't say I've ever seen that combo before. I'm not even sure on the end result to be fair, other than the response should be fairly epic. Worse case scenario and the twins don't gel well with a stroker, you can just bang on a single and continue on with life

Keep in mind with American manifolds that they don’t have a steering column in the way. So make sure he has photos of it fitted in a RHD setup otherwise you may find that you don’t have clearance for wastegate or large downpipes

Go with new facelifts Russ, will look much nicer with your paint scheme

There is no point I agree. So might as well fit the biggest turbo you can enjoy getting your face ripped off whislt you can!

Pm’d

Yeah it will take it no problem. I've run 700whp+ on a new R154 without issues

NA with 3.7 is going to feel gutless. You need to have a turbo to make the most of that setup. Leave it on 4.1 whilst NA

Yeah its the red one.

Not that I’m aware of