Mike2JZ

Here's the dyno graph for Leigh's car at 1.4 Bar boost. There is more power on tap, but limited to the following due to stock autobox. HP @ the wheels Really nice driving supra imo. GLWS Leigh, come say hi at some point

Love the old SX borg warners, they sound the tits. Super loud spooling, almost T51 esque.

Cool story brah

Just about at the crank, probably not at the wheels. Depends on turbo and setup really. Personally if I was trying to do it on a 4'', I'd using something from ETS or Garrett core, they are the only manufacturer that rates their cores with around 4'' sizing to 1000hp and have good air charge cooling properties.

You wont have a noticable lag increase going from 4'' to 5''

Rear Passengerside > Rear Driverside > Front Passengerside > Front Driverside

Take them to court. Can gauretee that there is no type approved products for a grey import supra lol.

Fuel Pressure Up VSV is only on UK/Euro/USDM and Facelift VVTi engine JDM Supra's IIRC.

You will struggle to find anything good in 4'' The ones you can use will start leaking usually.

Second turbo isnt coming on after transition. Check your IACV VSV, vacuum plumbing and check air filter pipework hasnt collapsed.

I know!

Technically it is possible to do on first turbo, but unless you have modified vsv's or actuator it to do it then unlikely it will do it. Like tayr said, just turn boost controller off. If it still does it then probably second turbo, if it doesnt then you know its a setting issue on BC

Hi, I believe its from a Nissan 350Z The throttle adapter was made by Ash @ SRD, he made it from scratch.

My recomendation would be for a stock loom car would be to run factory coils, cause it just works as it was intended and designed. I never used to think much of factory coils until fitting new ones and pushing them to over a 1000hp on multiple cars, without even needing to change spark plug gaps on pump & e85 fuels. Plenty of ignition power for 90% of Supra's out there. I don't mind fitting aftermarket coils when I build a custom loom for a project though as it can be implemented into the main wiring branch and looks like its meant to be there and we are normally shooting for simplicity whilst keeping functionality. Fitting aftermarket coils to stock loom supra's always makes me laugh cause theres like 2-3 plugs always dangling around in engine bay not being used, and usually someone has routed the wiring in the worst possible way, so does more damage then good in the long run. As your Link ecu will be a plug and play unit, I would suggest sticking with OEM coils for ease of use. I have tuned many cars with a fresh set of coils with big singles and have no issues to report. If you find that you can overcome the factory coil with your setup, then I'll hold my hands up and a stronger coil is required.

If its fuel issue, then you should be able to spray some easy start down the intake whilst cranking and it should fire for a few seconds. If you can get that far, then defo either ECU control has failed, wiring problem (check you have 12v on injector connectors) or mechanical issue with fueling.

I think he means the new GR Yaris coils outperformed the R35 coils. The 1NZ coilpack isnt used in the GR Yaris, its used in prius. GR Yaris Coilpack 90919-02277 1NZ Coilpack 90919-02265 I haven't seen the testing that he's on about in that video, but from looks alone it looks like the GR coilpack has been built a bit more stout than whats found on a prius. Presumably as Toyota have spececed a more heavy duty coil for the duty of a high strung turbo 3 cylinder. Hard to say if stalk length is the same between both coils, but maybe the GR coils would fit that bracket kit. Let's do some price comparisons on denso coils though from RockAuto, like what he suggests in the video. Factory Supra 2J Coils 1NZ Coilpacks GR Coilpacks (they dont list denso on rockauto for these, only these) On average shopping around on different sites, all the above coils basically cost the same amount. You might save £40 going with one over another. By the time you factory in the coilpack mounting brackets, wiring modifications etc, you will have spent more than just putting some denso 2J coils into the car. So the arguement of its cheaper is a bit weak. Not sure if the GR Yaris coils would fit under the cover either given their connector mounting is off at a 45 degree angle upwards where the cover sits. That said, if the GR yaris coils are the next best thing after R35's then I'd be intersted to give them a go in the future.

I don't agree with them providing a better spark. The factory coils are really excellent provided they are somewhat new and not 25 years old. Not having to worry about an external igniter is handy sometimes. Dont forget that a 1NZ is naturally aspirated 1.5litre peanut shooter, coils werent designed from factory for boost. Personally havent run these yaris coils over anything over 600hp, so cant comment on big power capability but done a few cars that were fine with them at lower power or on 4 cylinders. Don't forget you will need to wire these in to your ECU and provide addequate power from somewhere. Try and run the wiring through the wing so you dont butcher your OEM firewall wiring grommet like a lot people seem to do.

500ml to a litre will be plenty. They can take more if you are bleeding from a completely dry system, but on a flush and bleed like yours litre will be plenty.

New OEM coils are fantastic still, have seen many do north of 1000hp with ease. They are a good investment that wont need changing another 5-10 years with the use of a single turbo. If you buy a cheap mounting kit, make sure you run genuine coils. The amount of chinese knockoff coils going on right now is really bad, had loads of issues with them and ends up costing more in the long run as we have to replace them with something else. Always misfires under high boost, or they last the dyno then a month later get a misfire cause a coil is dead. Problem is, most genuine coils for Yaris, R35, K24, IGN1A & other popular makes cost a lot, by the time you have 6 of them its the same money as just buying new OEM 2J coils. The only coil I've found to be cheap and work at crazy high boost reliabily is the R8 coil, but they look awful so theres a trade off Personally I run IGN1A, and they are awesome but need a lot of custom wiring work to make them run correctly. If I started from a TT then I would of just stuck with OEM Coils cause everythings is already there for them to work from the factory. Edit: Also the yaris coils that most people advertise a coil kit for is for the 1ZZ/2ZZ engine found on older yaris. I doubt the new Yaris would run the same coil, although they might be similar.

Stock TC is the best for a road car. High stalls are shit for anything but racing on a dragstrip.

Try a set of Bosch injectors one day adi and you will be impressed. Pulsewidth control and fuel atomisation is far superior on modern tech. That said, I’ve also had good success on genuine power enterprise injectors before, but trying to find genuine units these days with correct injector data is a mission. Not worth the aggro unless you get lucky and find a set from reputable source.

Usually see issue with 800cc-1000cc. Haven’t seen a set of 650s fitted in a while.

If its too good to be true it usually is. I refuse to tune cars anymore with ebay injectors, they are always an issue. Just buy a set of known and approved aftermarket bosch based injectors from proven companies like injector dynamics or FIC and enjoy a stress free time. Sidefeed injectors are also a pain, especially in larger sizes, they can exhibit hot start problems and incosistent fueling at low pulsewidths. My recomendation is to leave them in the 1990's and jump on a modern injector.

You will have to yes, hybrid turbo's will flow considerably more air than the factory map is setup to handle

Thats quite the oil leak you have there. I'd check the state of your camshaft seals, front main seal and valve cover gaskets, they will most likely be leaking. That hose does not connect to anything, its job is to divert coolant away from the alternator in case the water pump seal fails. Just put the pipe off to the side of the alternator whilst installing.