Noz

Getting some interest on Ebay so last bump in here before I think it might get sold.

Gorgeous looking car. I really do think it's worth keeping it as stock as possible, or at least easy stuff you can change; wheels, exhaust, etc. I'd buy a second set of clocks with different fronts on for the MPH. Then you can swap over the KPH to make it stock. As converters can fail or break, cause you issues (mine even stopped my odometer working). I'd advise getting a gauge cluster face that matches MPH. Metal Monkey sell different facia to go on the clocks. TRD style.

Ouch, expensive problem. Good find

Bump

Just get a thick NA radiator. I got a Koyo from whifbitz. Enormous compared to NA rad. I have a manual. I wouldn't faff about using a TT rad. There is no point mate.

If it's mechanically hitting something you need to get underneath and have a look really. Get the car on a ramp and see what it's contacting. If it's a mechanism of the steering wheel system and you have physical clearance it will come down to the steering rack or the column with the joint in the middle being an issue. Again, both items need to be seen by a mechanic really to understand the issue.

Looks lovely mate. Top work.

Interestingly, why does age affect the water inside the light. The seal is usually always pretty good when I take any apart. I'm curious if the rubber seal on the fog and the projector backing rubbers have any influence on fogging lights. My advice is remove both the rubber plugs that may or may not have the filters in. It will speed up the venting process no end. I personally don't think new headlights is the way forward. But I've never quantified what causes lights to truly fog up and where the water finds its way inside.

I thought about this on the weekend. Why did you remap for a new pump. Was it purely for more horsepower or tuning the pump in. I ask because in my head. The pump would only change the flow rate returning to the tank. The pressure should be regulated meaning no fuel pressure to the injectors should change. Whatever pump you used. So the only reason you'd map it is for more power. Assuming the old one held you back? On 510hp I'm surprised you'd want to be mapping for more power. Have you put the old pump back in yet to see what happens?

Sounds like new fuel pump can't keep up. Need to check the logs to see what fuel pressure does. I'd be testing with the old pump. See if problem goes away.

Can you check the pulse from the ignition output on the ignitor for the dizzy coil. Surely that'll have a voltage output signal at the least. I'd also try and swap the old pump back. Only because you know that's one thing that has definitely changed.

It has a headlight flasher kit by sounds of it.

Think the bonnets meant to be like that terrible

Any more information on the stories?

Never removed engine or subframe for the sump. If you're looking at that and have no idea on the ECU, I have worries you'll end up spending time learning and the labour cost will be higher than usual. Changing the exhaust manifold for a turbo one and installing different intercooler pipe work is fairly straight forward. Personally, I would just get Whifbitz to fit the kit. The installation, may be cheaper as there is less for them to learn. Unless it's a friend helping for an extremely low cost of course. ECU's come with either an adaptor loom or needing wiring in. Emanage piggy back ECU is a typical NA-t ECU used. I have one for sale in the for sale section. Whifbitz could supply, fit and map the setup for you. AEM v1 and v2 EMS is a commonly used standalone ECU. There are lots of guides on what is needed. Just continue your research. Whifbitz fit my own pieced together kit 7 years ago. We all know someone who could have a go. But Whifbitz have fit so many kits, it just makes sense.

That's a pain buddy. I'm impressed it lasted that long. I changed mine out as while it was all in bits, the poor thing looked quite tired. I was expected it to fail around the edging, the neck looked fairly solid. Surprised at that. What are you replacing it with? I replaced mine with a Koyo from Whifbitz. Not the cheapest but jesus, it's massive in comparison. I'd replace the thermostat while the rad it off. Just for piece of mind. They don't usually come with the rubber seal though so keep that in mind! The windscreen I fitted went in lovely by the way, for a non-oem windscreen I was surprised when I fit it. Car's since, been dropped to Whifbitz and I'm just waiting for much work to be done before I can enjoy looking through it

ECU comes with loom and 3 bar map sensor. Throwing in the HKS fuel cut defender that I used in conjunction with the ECU. Loom will fit both GTE and GE variants. I used it on my NAt. The leads use an old style printer cable, throwing that in as well to save having to locate a lead. £350 inc postage.

I'd say these injectors would get anyone comfortably to 450hp. Jekyl years ago ran 385hp on stock 330cc injectors. I had a good few years at 417hp on my 440cc. 450 should be safe! Maybe even 500! GLWS

I'd say these injectors would get anyone comfortably to 450hp. Jekyl years ago ran 385hp on stock 330cc injectors. I had a good few years at 417hp on my 440cc. 450 should be safe! Maybe even 500! GLWS

A log manifold can be cast or tubular. I think everyone is in agreement that the longer manifold designs will show more lag than shorter designs regardless of material type.

That'd be a nice comparison. I have a modified eBay one. Hopefully it doesn't give me any boost creep issues now I've a bigger wastegate. I previously saw boost spikes with a typical 4 bolt WG.

Log better for spool and torque but not hp I saw somewhere?

3200 is nice! Really nice!

Wayne what rpm do.you see full boost. That dyno doesn't really tell me much when comparing full boost. As you don't show at rpm at which you hit 1.3 bar.

Oh really? I'm surprised at that. I used to see full boost on my XS T61 at 3800rpm. Was a fair sized turbo as well. My new 62mm is much smaller. Does anyone else see lower? What do people with small singles see?