Noz

Got one for sale and didn't know what kind of throttle body / cable they use. As I had to use an extended throttle cable. Guidance welcome please guys. As selling items and be good to explain to buyers if they can use the bits.

Buddy there are loads of threads on this if you search. You need to get the exact wheel offset really. Rolling arches should not damage any paint if done correctly. Dont forget the main work is done on the inside of the arch. - - - Updated - - - Buddy there are loads of threads on this if you search. You need to get the exact wheel offset really. Rolling arches should not damage any paint if done correctly. Dont forget the main work is done on the inside of the arch.

Best way to learn is definitely buying one and investigating things. Which version does she want or does she have no preference.

Yes buddy. They are indeed!

I went with coils so I no longer need the dizzy cap or the leads. I ran 417hp with these leads no problem for about 3 months before I stripped the car. The leads are a couple years old but the engine wasnt run much due to me working on the bodywork. £50 plus postage I can send photos through WhatsApp. But to get the ad up here is the ebay link. The leads are long enough for the typical NA-t use where you swap leads for suiting cylinder 1 and 2 for the 4runner cap. Ebay ad. Look at this on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352206684489

I can confirm at 70mph third gear the wheels light up. Even with the pilot sports and good tread. I do think the car is really hard and that could be contributing to the slip. The thin tyres wont be helping. For now. I think I'll research down the path of traction control and what parts I'm going to need to install wheel sensors.

Look forward to seeing how the boot setup turns out mate. I've no rear seats or boot. So keen to see how you get on.

Lovely car mate. To solve the height issue I can highly recommend air cups. Mine is low and I can get over huge speed humps and car parks now. Definitely recommended. Love the seats

Bump. 1 prefacelift set for sale.

Remap should be used as a preventative measure against any problems and not just power increase. If you keep the pipe the same and the AFR doesnt change then the tune in theory will be the same. If you make a flow change the map should be adjusted regardless of if you are happy with the current performance. You should always ensure you have correct fuelling. It would be best to play it safe. Swap the exhaust. Have a remap. Rather than risk it or check AFR and then it's way different. None of us can ensure the advice is sound and will protect your engine. Get it mapped/checked with the new exhaust and cover your ass mate.

It never happened. Didn't get enough interest.

How can I go about this please. My insurance is giving me a discount for being in the club and would like proof through the display of a membership card please.

Yeah it's the first photo I've shared for years mate. 603hp. 540 ft lb. Not bad for a non turbo engine.

Has anyone else got rolling anti lag? So excited. Pick mine up tomorrow from Whifbitz. Ignore the cleanliness of the car and the 13J. Needs some finishing off to clean things up.

Sick photo mate. Loving the history behind it though. Even if it's a costly one!

I think the looms worth about the same as the lights. Can find lights online for about £35.

Some really realistic prices there. Top Mark's on not being unfair. Would have loved the sub frame but not the right time for me. Glws

I've an EGT on cylinder 6. Gauge only. Not ecu. I used an ebay manifold. Modified it and its run 600hp and cost me less than 400 quid. If you know how to make them better. It's the route I'd take. Forgot the aussie dollar is loads less!

Wow that's an expensive kit! That cost more than twice my coils lol blimey lad! Be nice to see how far you can push the log manifold. Dont want your exhaust gases getting too hot!

Thanks mate. Car actually looks completely different these days! New colour. Wide arch wheel etc. I personally wouldnt over complicate it. Any theory will only ever be estimation at best. Silencers these days dont restrict as much as old style muffler used too. I would just replicate the system using the same diameter and call it a day buddy.

If the pipe diameter remains the same then the resistance wont change. Therefore the flow will be the same and no remap will he needed. If you change how it flows, typically through increase in size, then it will need mapping. Just get an exhaust system made using the same diameter pipework and it will be a plug and play situation.

Personally. I wouldnt use boost alone as a predictor. You need to remove restraining parts of the setup to allow for a better power outcome without using boost alone. These would be intake temperature reducing items such as larger pipework and inter cooler. Exhaust restrictions such as pipe size and also cams for same boost more power outcomes. Try some 272 cams and you'll get more hp with the same boost but it will indeed move your power band. I've never seen anyone utilise big cams with stock turbos. I've seen people remove the restrictor ring and control boost with standalone. Fuel system would be recommend to upgrade but oversize on all of the above and it will definitely help you. I dont think enough people go big enough on their exhaust. I have a 4inch downpipe to a 4.5inch system. Contributed towards allowing me to hit 501hp with 0.8bar on a 62mm turbo on my NAt.

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Dont have a graph sadly mate with the 501hp. Was only testing to see if there were any boost issues with the exhaust manifold. The coil conversion that we did using Syvecs was relatively straight forward. Using Audi R8 coils. I'm sure many US boys have got higher hp values with the dizzy. I can recall seeing various values over the years. I still retain the dizzy gear mechanism for cam position, so if I go cams itll be quite the opportunity as I haven't seen anyone on any forums use the BC pre vvti cams yet on a build.

Only 500hp David?