Noz

I'd post up on the forum mate. Not many uk boys use holset from what I've seen

Welcome! I'm based in exeter. Be good to see your supra about mate

Meet you at 15 buddy because I always post recorded.

Got so many LED on my front end thinking of selling these are a bit OTT for me now. Guidance appreciated

Bump for some cheeky NA bits.

It's basically a digital vs analog difference mate. I didn't realise it's called a VR Transducer. I would swap the old analog `VR` sensors for digital on/off sensors. Ask your tuner what sensors the AEM will pick up and get them swapped. Job done in my eyes!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://gordon.com.pl/filesf/nowosci/denso-ems.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi9n52_t5blAhV9ThUIHWRUDvwQFjALegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2RlbpbE46LlKulCrY6T4I5 They are all a type of hall sensor man. It's how the process works. I stand by the requirement to measure the output signal from the GTE sensor and the GE sensor and match the values.

All the sensors will be a form of hall sensor surely.

^ sounds like a potential solution! Style. You could ask Dan if he would fit the resistors but also fit a switch allowing for GTE or GE. Which would just pull two lines of resistance. The stock route or the route with extra resistance.

Waveform means its analog. You can incredible the amplitude but not the frequency easy enough. That's a different process. How can they use the same sensor but give a different signal? I thought different sensors were used mate.

Interesting on the heating. Wonder how that could be applied to the lights. Be a cool mod that.

I get the odd occasion. I'm going to start researching and developing a solution for this. As even with brand new seals I've not sussed how to resolve it. I've sealed every joint. I've left some joints open (rear projector rubbers). Added filters. Removed filters. Theres no one thing that sorts it. I presumed disturbing the rear rubber seals may be the cause. Or the fog light o ring. Sealing everything can sometimes help but not resolve completely. Would anyone else be interest in a plug and play kit that resolves this. It will likely be air flow related with pumps and humidity sensor through the top plug to trigger operation. I'm currently looking into low powered mini vacuum pump (low cost) to see if I would be able to control the condensation. If I can sort this issue it would be an amazing light bulb moment.

I'm not a professional by any means. But removing resistors due to a weak signal would tell me an amplifier would be better suited. Rather than noise reduction or a new ecu. If the signal is present but too weak. Is it just a 12v pulse signal. As you could create or buy a 12v signal amplifier. Do you still have the dizzy equipment on hand. I cant get to my dizzy currently. If you measure the sensors pulse voltage and then measure the GTE sensor voltage you'll see the step up you need from the amplifier. It would make sense the sensors give different voltage values and maybe the new ecu isnt equipped to see a lower voltage. Typical electronics uses 5v signals, 4-20mA or 10v range. If the combo is wrong it might be the problem. Can you give me the part numbers for the sensors. Maybe if I can find a data sheet we can understand the output voltages and you can then resolve by replicating the NA signal.

Future motorsport deal with EMS a lot. I still have caution towards your garage. If they cant figure it out or dont know it makes me feel they arent that familiar with the ecu. And I always prefer someone who's locked in with experience on that. Got any links to those old threads?

That's really interesting. I didn't know the ecu was made specifically for the NA. Syvecs didn't make an NA ecu. I'd speak to someone who tunes that ECU day in day out. I cant recommend Whifbitz enough. I'd be speaking to them and wouldnt map my car anywhere else now.

If the garage doesnt know youve gone to the wrong garage. The ecu should do both vvti and non vvti. Therefore you're just looking for the cross over.

Love the fact you can make a kit for that. Feels a bit cheeky but it still looks so much nicer than the golf club.

Vvti wouldnt make any difference. It's like asking if a turbo affects the diff they arent connected. ECU will handle vvti and the DCT. I dont think the forum has died purely because no one answers you. Maybe no one knows. Or is interested. 400+ members online. For a car that's 20 years old. I'd say it's a pretty active forum.

Seen this photo a few times. Ita a lovely style. Be great to make it.

Hello lad! Yes lol but you made it sound like we went together LOL Incredibly spooky how I was commenting on your post! Hope you heard good things mate! Sadly didn't take the car it was still being tuned at that weekend. Was so gutted couldn't take it.

Edit the original post mate. I'd try and do it without cams. Only so you keep a lower rev range. Bigger turbo and cams might begin to ruin the drive. Have you got abs? ECU for traction control? The 4 inch shouldn't be restrictive so sure they will be fine man.

The BW selection Style is right. Many options for that power at seen print outs. You are missing many of your variables. You need a spec as full as you can manage. As exhaust system is not the only variable factor. Will you do cams. Is it therefore purely on boost with a stock rpm level. How big is the exhaust system after the mid pipe. Personally. I'd have a 5inch downpipe and midpipe. It would make it more achievable with no cams to save on cost due to flow. I have 600hp on a 62mm turbo with no head work on an NA engine and a 9.#:1 compression ratio. Which I thinks fairly good considering 1.5 bar. I have a 4inch downpipe and midpipe with a 4.4inch full exhaust. I would use a 66mm BW turbo if I was going for that kind of power. Many other turbos will do that power. But a 62mm on a larger housing would not be my preference and its not what I've seen others do buddy.

fair price that. GLWS

Hardly used, NGK SPARK PLUG BKR9EIX x6, used just to move my car around before the tune, ended up going colder before got the tune right. £30 posted 3.5" Throttle body with a throttle position sensor. Can sell separate, prefer as a package. Sold as went electronic throttle body (DWB). Tested and ran 500hp. £100 NA Coil. Near new condition. Tested to 500hp running no problems. Went coils, so not needed. Comes with FREE bracket! £20 posted NA Ignitor. Near not new condition lol.. lasted me a while, and NO problems. Again, as many of the other bits, 500hp, no problem. £15 posted Accelerator pedal. Went electronic pedal with the DBW. £20 posted 330cc 2JZGE injectors. Always handy between upgrades. Done me proud these little beast. £40 posted

Can also send the rotor arm which was used with the cap. It's pretty new, used to move the car around for the past year and ran a couple of 500hp dyno runs no problem. Then removed for coils.